Wireless Analogue speed control for less than AU$10

[KleineDicke]

Or you could use one of these as a reverse switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150663977469?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 < Link To http://www.ebay.com/itm/1...ksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Of course, you'd need two remotes then, but if you glued them together, it wouldn't be too obtrusive.

 

[Madman]

OK, I couldn't resist the temptation. I received one of these things the other day, and just got to try it out tonight. I hooked up 12 volts DC as per instructions. Hooked up a motor to the output, as per instructions. Picked up the transmitter and nothing happened. I mean notta, zilch, zip, like zero man. So then I tried it with one LED with reisitor. The LED lit up, but I couldn't dim it, brighten it or turn it off. Finally, I connected my volt meter to the output terminals. 12 volts going in, 12 volts coming out. Tried again with the transmitter...................... nothing.

 

[tramcar trev]

Led flashing on the transmitter? Mine will control leds, small motors and an incandecent globe, I have just got a 10 amp supply and will tryit out. I measured the voltages too and I found it didnt vary much 0 when "off" and 10 - 12 when on...

 

[Madman]

Led flashing on the transmitter? Mine will control leds, small motors and an incandecent globe, I have just got a 10 amp supply and will tryit out. I measured the voltages too and I found it didnt vary much 0 when "off" and 10 - 12 when on...

Yes, the LED flashes when I press one of the buttons on the transmitter. If I understand you correctly, you say you were able to turn the power off on the exit side of the receiver? So if the voltage varies no more than 2 volts, did we get taken for a ride?

 

[Tony Walsham]

Not if it controls the LED's "as advertised". Using it to control an electric motor is not "as advertised".

 

[Madman]

But Tony, Even with LEDs hooked up to it, nothing worked as advertised.

 

[Tony Walsham]

Trev said it did for him.
Perhaps you have the wiring back to front?

 

[matthew]

I can also say that it works fine for us, has been an absolutely fantastic use of £5 to have hands free control.

What i will say is that for some reason you have to get the wiring connected in a certain way, otherwise it does not work. I just had to mess around with it until i got it working. Also im not sure if you knew this (i certainly didn't!! ) but you have to keep the directional buttons pressed in for quite a while (5-6 seconds) before you start to see a reduction/increase in speed.

 

[tramcar trev]

Yes, the greater the load the slower the response.....
If it dosent work and you ebayed it then get onto the suppleir and ask them, tell them it dosent work on leds...it may be faulty.....

 

[Madman]

I have an email to them already on the wire. I re-experimented with it tonight, after reading Tony's words of wisdom. Had it wired correctly and still no response from the remote.

 

[ge_rik]

Ok - mine arrived today and I've just spent about twenty minutes playing with it.
[*]I connected a 3v motor/gearbox assembly and added 3v of battery. Nothing happened.[*]I connected 6v and the motor spun like mad with the occasional pulse of reduced speed. Nothing happened when I pressed the buttons on the remote[*]I then connected 9v and after an initial burst of speed the motor settled down. Pressing the buttons on the remote worked, albeit taking time to respond. Once I'd reduced the power using the down button to near zero (no movement but the motor was humming) I pressed the on/off button and it went off. Pressing the on/off the motor hummed and then increased in steps when the 'up' button was pressed and decreased in steps when the 'down' button was pressed.[*]The most reliable control was when I connected 12v - which is what it says on the input side of the unit. Nothing happens until the on/off button is pressed and then the motor hums but doesn't move. Pressing the 'up' button briefly starts the motor moving slowly. Pressing again and it steps up a notch, again another notch. To go up another notch requires the button to be held in until the motor responds. The same applies in reverse when the 'down' button is pressed. I can't get it to actually stop using the down button, the motor is still ticking over. Pressing the on/off button stops it So, my experience is that it does seem to work with the type of motor I'm intending to use. The increase and decrease is not smooth with this type of set-up but it does allow some control of the speed - but for around £6.50 it's not bad. I've not tried it with the motor under load, of course, but I can't see why it wouldn't work

Edit

Here's a video of the unit in action - http://youtu.be/8VcfKxg8YBE Rik

 

[ge_rik]

Just tested the controller at 12v on a meter and the rise and fall in voltage is actually more predictable and smoother than when the motor is connected. Could the less smooth increase and decrease in the speed of the motor have something to do with the load or back emf? If the latter, would shoving a capacitor of some sort in or across the circuit help to smooth things?

You can probably tell that I am very dangerous - I have a little knowledge but not much sense!

Rik

 

[Madman]

I wouldn't put it that way Rik. I'd say that you have alittle knowledge, but you just don't know how to use it.

 

[tramcar trev]

Just tested the controller at 12v on a meter and the rise and fall in voltage is actually more predictable and smoother than when the motor is connected. Could the less smooth increase and decrease in the speed of the motor have something to do with the load or back emf? If the latter, would shoving a capacitor of some sort in or across the circuit help to smooth things?

You can probably tell that I am very dangerous - I have a little knowledge but not much sense!

Rik

Im thinking what you're proposing is called buffering. and that could work as a decent cap will "absorb" a bit of juice as it charges up then will discharge thruoug the motor as it stops. My opinion for what its worth is that "buffering" is a bit like elcheapo inertia control... However Im like you, just enough knowledge to be dangerous.... Im surre GregH will sort this out when he gets back to his fully equipped lab....
If you want ( or could accept) wired PWM motor control check them out on Ebay, many to choose from all at good prices....

 

[gregh]

I hooked up 12 volts DC as per instructions. Hooked up a motor to the output, as per instructions. Picked up the transmitter and nothing happened. I mean notta, zilch, zip, like zero man. So then I tried it with one LED with reisitor. The LED lit up, but I couldn't dim it, brighten it or turn it off. Finally, I connected my volt meter to the output terminals. 12 volts going in, 12 volts coming out. Tried again with the transmitter...................... nothing.

Just a thought...
Are you using a 12V BATTERY or a train type power supply. If the latter maybe it is unfiltered and just full wave rectified and maybe the circuit doesn't work with that.

 

[gregh]

Just tested the controller at 12v on a meter and the rise and fall in voltage is actually more predictable and smoother than when the motor is connected. Could the less smooth increase and decrease in the speed of the motor have something to do with the load or back emf? If the latter, would shoving a capacitor of some sort in or across the circuit help to smooth things?
Rik

Did you have any load (eg LEDs) on the output for this test, or just the voltmeter?
With PWM controllers it's quite normal to measure full (input) volts on the output with no load, even if you think it's 'off'. It's due to the output impedance of the FET when it's off, being much higher than the voltmeter impedance. But for a usual controller, as soon as you take say 10mA or more you'll see the voltage being controlled.

 

[Madman]

I hooked up 12 volts DC as per instructions. Hooked up a motor to the output, as per instructions. Picked up the transmitter and nothing happened. I mean notta, zilch, zip, like zero man. So then I tried it with one LED with reisitor. The LED lit up, but I couldn't dim it, brighten it or turn it off. Finally, I connected my volt meter to the output terminals. 12 volts going in, 12 volts coming out. Tried again with the transmitter...................... nothing.

Just a thought...
Are you using a 12V BATTERY or a train type power supply. If the latter maybe it is unfiltered and just full wave rectified and maybe the circuit doesn't work with that.

I tried both types of power. First with an LGB 1 amp transformer, then with a Li-on 12 volt battery. I had LEDs for one test, then the volt meter for another test. The LEDs showed no signs of dimming or even turning off.
The seller has refunded my purchase price plus the shipping cost. They did not want me to return the unit.