What wheelbase for R2 track work

WilsonBo

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24 May 2022
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Ok sometimes things are never that simple, just the way of things. But a better answer may now be possible. I hope the pic below with ruler of a vehicle with solid axle boxes and a slightly longer length can help you now. View attachment 299149
EDIT Oh and yes the vehicle happily trundles round both LGB R1 and R2 curves.
That is very helpful. Thank you.

Wilson
 

WilsonBo

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That looks like an Aristocraft chassis Jon. I use one for my general purpose "translator"/battery wagon. As you say the answer is more complex - The factors, as well as wheelbase, include buffer face to axle centre distance (i.e. how far will the buffers throw out in curves), is the centre buffer articulated and how long is its shank. One of the issues with using a dumb centre buffer with chain link is the risk of the narrow buffer faces locking while shunting or propelling stock over tight radius track geometry. Other coupling types offer greater control in these types of operation.

One way you can mitigate this is by creating transitional curves, say R2 opening out to R3, where possible, rather than fixed radii. You are already half way there by using larger radius points. It also brings in the possibility of using flexi track and don't discard the possibility of using Piko's curved (LGB R3 inner, R5 outer) point. That is a handy solution if you are working in a tight space with some "larger" stock. Max

A couple of pictures of a detail of my line to illustrate. You will see we have had similar ideas to layout. All the points are R5 and most of the curves are flexi track but there are some R5 and even R3 in there. See if you can spot the curved point.

View attachment 299185 View attachment 299186
Thank you for that: very informative and helpful. As I said in a previous reply my space is limited. Basically we took out a pond and I was given the space to do something with. The layout is initially very basic, but I have factored in the possibility of extending through a gazebo in the future...

Wilson
 

Greg Elmassian

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Be careful when you ask someone to critique!

Clearly you have some mismatch in the upper line as it diverges to the right... It would be nice to make a single sweeping curve, looks like maybe a right hand R3 (hard to guess) then a little curved track at very mild radius and then a tighter curve to the right. It would be nice to smooth all that out to a constant curvature, from the switch out.

Also might be nice to realign the upper right track from the crossing where it kinks left to the switch. It appears you could move that far switch closer to the lighthouse and reduce that kink. You might have to extend the diverging curve from the far switch to make it line up, but it would look better.

449197_20220526_171508.jpg
 

maxi-model

UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
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Be careful when you ask someone to critique!

Clearly you have some mismatch in the upper line as it diverges to the right... It would be nice to make a single sweeping curve, looks like maybe a right hand R3 (hard to guess) then a little curved track at very mild radius and then a tighter curve to the right. It would be nice to smooth all that out to a constant curvature, from the switch out.

Also might be nice to realign the upper right track from the crossing where it kinks left to the switch. It appears you could move that far switch closer to the lighthouse and reduce that kink. You might have to extend the diverging curve from the far switch to make it line up, but it would look better.
Interesting, I can't seem to find any invitation to critique in my post, just an invitation spot the curved point, but you're welcome Greg. My approach to layout development might be described as "organic", over the past 19 years, rather than anally retentive. No offence to those so inclined to thr latter method :) And you really do not want to see my solution to a misalignment of a cat flap 30" above floor hight as the line heads into the house and a double siding - you might have an applectic fit, and that would not do. It all works just fine. A little bit of settrack, a whole load of flexi (and a half decent rail bender) and a few UK handmade points and slips. All held in place by assorted rail clamps, direct to rail and over joiner. Not to mention use of that bodgers staple - the "Junior Hacksaw". Max