What is the use of track cleaning loco?
- Thread starter Mobi
- Start date
ntpntpntp
Registered
In my opinion it's best used as an occasional "polish" after you've given the track a decent proper clean using the track cleaning pad (mounted on a pole if your track is at ground level). It's quite effective for this purpose, but I wouldn't ask it to do a deep clean for the first run of the year or if the track hasn't been used for a while.
In theory you can clean a yard or two of track by hand to give the loco something to get going, and set it running slowly so it cleans as best as it can and works its way round the line. This is easier to do with DCC as you have a constant high voltage in the track to aid pickup and to keep the cleaning motor running.
The cleaning wheels are designed with quite deep flanges so that it lifts up the abrasive wheels over point frogs to avoid wearing the plastic frog. It's best to address those areas by hand.
In theory you can clean a yard or two of track by hand to give the loco something to get going, and set it running slowly so it cleans as best as it can and works its way round the line. This is easier to do with DCC as you have a constant high voltage in the track to aid pickup and to keep the cleaning motor running.
The cleaning wheels are designed with quite deep flanges so that it lifts up the abrasive wheels over point frogs to avoid wearing the plastic frog. It's best to address those areas by hand.
Nick beat me to it..
If the track is *really* dirty, then not a lot!
But,
The cleaning section is in front of the driving section, which has the pickups on it.. It pushes the cleaning wheels ahead of itself, so hopefully the cleaning wheels clean enough on the first pass to allow the wheels and skates of the rear section to pickup enough power to keep it going..
You would only tend to run it round a couple of circuits, then give the rails a wipe over with a damp cloth.
If the track is *really* dirty, then not a lot!
But,
The cleaning section is in front of the driving section, which has the pickups on it.. It pushes the cleaning wheels ahead of itself, so hopefully the cleaning wheels clean enough on the first pass to allow the wheels and skates of the rear section to pickup enough power to keep it going..
You would only tend to run it round a couple of circuits, then give the rails a wipe over with a damp cloth.
With DCC the full track voltage is always there.. The decoder decides how fast the motor should run..
This means if you lose some voltage due to a dirty track, an increase in resistance, the system can cope with this better.
With analogue you only put the amount of voltage on the track for the speed you want the loco to run at.. If the track is dirty, less power gets through, and your loco slows or stops.
This means if you lose some voltage due to a dirty track, an increase in resistance, the system can cope with this better.
With analogue you only put the amount of voltage on the track for the speed you want the loco to run at.. If the track is dirty, less power gets through, and your loco slows or stops.
Neil Robinson
Registered
Mobi said:
I suggest you regard it as you may an oil change on your car. I trust you don't wait until the engine seizes due to poor lubrication before considering a change.
In short they can help keep the track clean. They are particularly useful in hard to access locations such as awkward corners or tunnels.
the lgb track cleaning loco is simply brillant at its job.. it workd best on digical as the track is at full power, set it off at speed step 2.. flashy lights come on, meaning its cleaning.. it takes a frew passes, as it tends to leave tiger striped.. but it beats gettting onyour hands and n=knees with a cleaning block, .. quite simply, its been a much used and loved(dare i say that) loco, its runs, it cleans, you sit, drink brew.. watch train cleen track... and yes it can clean a rack railway... you just run it down hill cleaning.. as for sap..well move the track? or move the tree... or just get of yourr arse and clean it by hand.. 8)
railwayman198
Registered
Even if you use battery power it is not a good idea to let your track get too dirty. I ran Criccieth Castle as first loco on Saturday morning. It had rained overnight and it had kicked up a lot of muck onto the rails. I didn't wipe the track and within half a circuit the loco was rough riding because of the lumps of muck on the wheels. So I ended up having to clean the wheels and the track - serves me right for being lazy. Dirty track means dirty wheels whatever you run. Plastic wheels on rolling stock will accumulate crud particularly quickly.
8) 3 ways tyo run a garden railway.. steam, battierys, or track power.. you just have to decide which you want.. me, ive gone for track power... tryed steam, we didint get on.. battiers, well no.. not for me,, but track power, i can do.. so if you want to run on track power, regardless of digical/anolog.. good track laying.. with good joints/clamps/fishplates, and mutlipullp track power feeds, are essentual, in my honest opion.. track cleaning is usefull... but ..moreiinportantly.. track maintances.. repairing iffy joints ect ..is equally important.. i clean my track religusly, evey 6 months, weather it needs or not.. with a track cleaning loco.. sit and watch it go round for 20 minutes.. job done.. new extenisiopn im building, will have railclamps, on ever joint, as few joints as posable, and multipull track feeds.. ive found this aproch, gives me good running, with few, probleblems ..
ntpntpntp
Registered
Mobi said:How do they keep clean the real rail tracks?
Lasers! (well, for subborn leaf infestations anyway!)
http://www.railway-technology.com/features/feature1457/
Did this technology ever go live? That article was 2007 and seemed to be saying "don't hold your breath"
3Valve
Railways; Air cooled VW's; Soul Music
Mobi said:
For the stubborn stuff such as tree sap, yep the cleaning block is the tool. You can attach it to a broom handle/pole to save your knees/back etc.
My biggest track cleaning obstacle is pigeon poop, but the track cleaning blocks shifts it, even if it's been baked on during the recent hot spell.
Martino
Photography, The GWR, Aviation, Travel, Cars.
I avoided the LGB track cleaning loco for years. Used the blocks, dry wall sander, swiffers, various things on poles, and the spring loaded LGB thingy that has cleaning pads on it under a truck (actually added bits of dry wall sander, Scotchbrite pads etc) - all with varying degrees of success and pain to the knees and back.
Like Mike, I choose to go track power (other methods of locomotion and control are available), and DCC. My choice, I don't need to be converted, but thanks anyway.
I did go down the Track Cleaning Loco route a year ago. It's my most useful piece of kit and my most used loco.
Whenever I do a running session, I first go around with a low powered Black and Decker cordless leaf blower to remove the light stuff that falls on the track, but NOT the ballast. Keeps the boy collie away too. Then I set the track cleaner off. If I haven't run for a few weeks, then a quick polish over about two feet with the cleaning block gives the machine a starting point. Then off it goes slowly. Yes, there are sometimes zebra stripes but a couple of runs with the TC loco removes those, or just running a train. The faster the loco TC loco goes the less well it cleans, but if you do it before every running session then the crud build up is negligible.
I do tend to clean all the points by hand as although the TC loco does a good job, I'm of the opinion that points should be kept particularly clean.
Plastic wheels are the spawn of the devil and should be avoided at all cost as they create crud!
Mike's also correct in saying that even if you use batteries or live steam, you still need to get grit and gunge off the track somehow.
I'm a track cleaning loco convert, despite myself!
Like Mike, I choose to go track power (other methods of locomotion and control are available), and DCC. My choice, I don't need to be converted, but thanks anyway.
I did go down the Track Cleaning Loco route a year ago. It's my most useful piece of kit and my most used loco.
Whenever I do a running session, I first go around with a low powered Black and Decker cordless leaf blower to remove the light stuff that falls on the track, but NOT the ballast. Keeps the boy collie away too. Then I set the track cleaner off. If I haven't run for a few weeks, then a quick polish over about two feet with the cleaning block gives the machine a starting point. Then off it goes slowly. Yes, there are sometimes zebra stripes but a couple of runs with the TC loco removes those, or just running a train. The faster the loco TC loco goes the less well it cleans, but if you do it before every running session then the crud build up is negligible.
I do tend to clean all the points by hand as although the TC loco does a good job, I'm of the opinion that points should be kept particularly clean.
Plastic wheels are the spawn of the devil and should be avoided at all cost as they create crud!
Mike's also correct in saying that even if you use batteries or live steam, you still need to get grit and gunge off the track somehow.
I'm a track cleaning loco convert, despite myself!