Weathered wood
- Thread starter hornbeam
- Start date
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
You could use black india ink or other pigment in some rubbing alcohol (or isopropyl). You can build up the depth of colour and it really brings out the grain. After it is covered enough and dry, a good coat of spray (or brushed) Testors Dulcote gives a nice sealed matt surface.
For the pigments I use powder paint (like the stuff used to mix kids paint). With yellow ochre, burnt sienna, brown, vermillion, white and black you can mix up any shade for wood, weathering dirt, rust etc. It is cheap for a lot too!
For the pigments I use powder paint (like the stuff used to mix kids paint). With yellow ochre, burnt sienna, brown, vermillion, white and black you can mix up any shade for wood, weathering dirt, rust etc. It is cheap for a lot too!
Don Gilham
Model railways, Photography, anything lazy
I find that on bare wood, Colron wood dye works well - it can be appiied thickly and thinly giving a nice, weathered, unever finish.
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
You might find this page useful.
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/weathered_wood/ < Link To http://www.pacificcoastai..err.com/weathered_wood/
Rik
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/weathered_wood/ < Link To http://www.pacificcoastai..err.com/weathered_wood/
Rik
Don Gilham
Model railways, Photography, anything lazy
Excellent link Rik 
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Thanks Don. Yes, I found it useful when I was weathering some styrene buildings I'd made for my indoor 00 layout. Not used the techniques for real wood yet - but am just about to make some quarry buildings for outdoors and so will give it a try myself.Don Gilham said:Excellent link Rik
Rik
peterbunce
1880's Colorado Narrow gauge on 45mm track
Hi, Lifecolor have now issued a set of weathering (acrylic) colours in a set (of 6 colours) called weathered wood.
Its available from the Airbrush company, to whom I have no connection, other than a customer.
Here is a photo of the box; the pots each contain 22ml and are 42mm high and 32mm in diameter.
There are some instructions on the box base as well.
Yours Peter.
Its available from the Airbrush company, to whom I have no connection, other than a customer.
Here is a photo of the box; the pots each contain 22ml and are 42mm high and 32mm in diameter.
There are some instructions on the box base as well.
Yours Peter.
stevedenver
Registered
here in colorado, for narrow gauge, weathering -extreme with lots of UV turns most wood
very grey with streaks of remaining red or brown which fade completely eventually
often it looks like the cover of the kit mr bunce posted-the red orange streaking
i dont know if this severe geying is what happens in more humid climates with less UV-it seems to also happen near the ocean however
to answer to OP, id go mostly very light grey with a very few streaks of tan (or simply scratch/chip the wood in one or two psot, , maybe off center or on an edge, just for interest and 'wear' to reveal the raw wood) and then a light wash of weathered black (sort of a very very dark grey with a hint of brown-almost imperceptable)
for other parts of the world , less dry and less high,
i imagine darker brown or deep grey , but not black-unless it creosoted or otherwise treated
get pictures and see the color you like-this is the best way to get a good idea
i have found that layering, lightly, different colors, is really effective-each layer should be subtle and light-they build and still reveal the real wood underneath
if i were weathering an old flat car, from Colorado NG
id use a wash of medium light to light grey-id make a point to leave several planks raw-ie fresh and new and uncolored-these can have the final light wash of black however
then id use a slightly more concentrated wash , using a shader, to streak in , very sparingly, a few streaks of color-each plank individually
then the old india ink wash to bring out the crevices and grain-this will look wrong on the raw wood-imho-so onthose id use a very very thin wash of a weathered black-again straight black i think sometimes is too stark-a method for a light wash is to first wash the wood with thinner, so its 'wet' , this allow the thin wash not to be absorbed too rapidly, which can show brush streaks-the thinner wash helps to soften this
another approach, is to simply avoid uniformity among the planking -ie each plank gets a little different color, with special attention to staying exactly on the plank as the eye pick up deviations in lines very easily
fwiw, i got a toy train blue LGB flatcar a few days back, which had a blue deck
i hand painted it with Tamaya wood brown (red brown) and then streaked it with a wash of weathered black, varying among planks-its passable, at a distance even good-the red brown looks like new wood-but more what i associate with germany for some reason-the wash tones down the sheen and makes it appear a bit dusty dirty but not much
-took about fifteen minutes start to finish-the color i chose was specifically to match the wooden areas on my LGB rail trucks so that they could pull the flat and have harmonious coordinated look (so that neither highlights the differences or details of the other
hope this is of help to you
chalks are also wonderful-they are harder to get penetration into the new wood however, youmight need to use a medium such as spirits, but this also tend to make them very uniform when qapplied wet, almost like paint -it clears up a bit when it dries out and again becomes chalky
very grey with streaks of remaining red or brown which fade completely eventually
often it looks like the cover of the kit mr bunce posted-the red orange streaking
i dont know if this severe geying is what happens in more humid climates with less UV-it seems to also happen near the ocean however
to answer to OP, id go mostly very light grey with a very few streaks of tan (or simply scratch/chip the wood in one or two psot, , maybe off center or on an edge, just for interest and 'wear' to reveal the raw wood) and then a light wash of weathered black (sort of a very very dark grey with a hint of brown-almost imperceptable)
for other parts of the world , less dry and less high,
i imagine darker brown or deep grey , but not black-unless it creosoted or otherwise treated
get pictures and see the color you like-this is the best way to get a good idea
i have found that layering, lightly, different colors, is really effective-each layer should be subtle and light-they build and still reveal the real wood underneath
if i were weathering an old flat car, from Colorado NG
id use a wash of medium light to light grey-id make a point to leave several planks raw-ie fresh and new and uncolored-these can have the final light wash of black however
then id use a slightly more concentrated wash , using a shader, to streak in , very sparingly, a few streaks of color-each plank individually
then the old india ink wash to bring out the crevices and grain-this will look wrong on the raw wood-imho-so onthose id use a very very thin wash of a weathered black-again straight black i think sometimes is too stark-a method for a light wash is to first wash the wood with thinner, so its 'wet' , this allow the thin wash not to be absorbed too rapidly, which can show brush streaks-the thinner wash helps to soften this
another approach, is to simply avoid uniformity among the planking -ie each plank gets a little different color, with special attention to staying exactly on the plank as the eye pick up deviations in lines very easily
fwiw, i got a toy train blue LGB flatcar a few days back, which had a blue deck
i hand painted it with Tamaya wood brown (red brown) and then streaked it with a wash of weathered black, varying among planks-its passable, at a distance even good-the red brown looks like new wood-but more what i associate with germany for some reason-the wash tones down the sheen and makes it appear a bit dusty dirty but not much
-took about fifteen minutes start to finish-the color i chose was specifically to match the wooden areas on my LGB rail trucks so that they could pull the flat and have harmonious coordinated look (so that neither highlights the differences or details of the other
hope this is of help to you
chalks are also wonderful-they are harder to get penetration into the new wood however, youmight need to use a medium such as spirits, but this also tend to make them very uniform when qapplied wet, almost like paint -it clears up a bit when it dries out and again becomes chalky
pghewett
Registered
Does anyone know a good source for Lifecolor (Amazon have a somewhat weird offer of no use to the likes of us!)?
More generally (maybe this should be a new thread), does anyone have experience of, for example, the holzmodelbau wooden kits, their painting and their weatherproofing? [Some of their RhB stations are so attractive, and they do take paypal)
GH
More generally (maybe this should be a new thread), does anyone have experience of, for example, the holzmodelbau wooden kits, their painting and their weatherproofing? [Some of their RhB stations are so attractive, and they do take paypal)
GH
peterbunce
1880's Colorado Narrow gauge on 45mm track
Hi,
Airbrushes.com; here is a link
https://airbrushes.com/index.php?cPath=4_202&osCsid=38a5f8cd675c7841e6f91038a0166439 < Link To https://airbrushes.com/in...5c7841e6f91038a0166439
Geta an account and you will get a (small) discount - just a customer.
Yours Peter.
Airbrushes.com; here is a link
https://airbrushes.com/index.php?cPath=4_202&osCsid=38a5f8cd675c7841e6f91038a0166439 < Link To https://airbrushes.com/in...5c7841e6f91038a0166439
Geta an account and you will get a (small) discount - just a customer.
Yours Peter.