Triple Voltage Power Supply

[adeshers]

Hi all, cold innit? or is that 'cool' 8D

I wonder if your collective expertise could advise me. I am in the process of planning the electrical side of my new garden railway - hopefully pics will follow when the snow clears. I was thinking of using a transformer from Maplins (http://maplin.co.uk/Module?ModuleNo...his setup sound feasible? :bigsmile: Ade

 

[corgi]

If you are only running a couple of small trains the 2.5amps should do. You will need a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch to reverse the track power.

If using the 12volts for operating points I would only recommend operationg one point at a time.

The 5volts will operate about 20 to 25 LED's. for lighting.

 

[adeshers]

Thanks for responding so quickly Corgi, I don't suppose it's that cold in Melbourne &:
Lots of white stuff in Britain.
The original Melbourne is in Derbyshire, England (not that far from where I live) or is Melbourne, Australia named after somewhere else?

What voltage do you operate points at?

Ade

 

[corgi]

Melbourne was named in 1857 after Viscount Melbourne who was prime mimister of the UK at that time.

I had to cheat and look it up on the net, so we all have learned something.
As far as the weather goes we are going to have a high 30degC day here.
I have the cooler working now.

I use finger voltage for my points. I think about 16volts is the norm (but in most cases is half waved to give a +ve and
-ve split potentials) but the 12volts should suffice so long as you keep the points clean and free moving. You will also need a reversing switch to operate the points.

 

[minimans]

What voltage do you operate points at?

Ade

Depends on what point motors your using? If your using LGB you will need at least 18V depending on how far away the point is! I use 24V 5amp power supply for my EPL to get sure and positive movement of the points not forgetting that LGB point motors and switchbox's use AC current with halfwave rectification...........................

 

[5H17]

Only just found this thread. I was also looking at the same power supply funnily enough.
I was also looking at this one:
http://maplin.co.uk/Module?ModuleNo...why not..i just thought id ask the experts :)

 

[ntpntpntp]

I have one of the Maplin bench supplies that adeshers links to in the first post - the unit with triple output: variable 0-30V 2.5A + 12V + 5V Bought it ages ago for working on electronic projects.

I use it for running locos on a set of rollers for running-in, servicing, initial safety check after DCC decoder fitting etc. It has been an occasional stand-in for a basic Playmobil or LGB controller when I need more than 1 amp of power - for example running large Aristo diesels on a friend's DC powered line. I just use the voltage knob on the unit itself, with a DPDT switch between the output and the track for direction control.

Works very well, just have to be careful not to turn the voltage all the way to 30V!

 

[whatlep]

Only just found this thread. I was also looking at the same power supply funnily enough.
I was also looking at this one:
http://maplin.co.uk/Module?ModuleNo=219129

Is it feasible to set it to say 18v at 3 or 4A, and build myself a hand throttle with a decent potentiometer and DPDT switch? I cant really see any reason why not..i just thought id ask the experts

Short answer is "yes"! May I also respectfully draw your attention to my new private sales item which seems to be of relevance? http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?high=&m=60074&mpage=1#60074

 

[5H17]

Thanks whatlep. To be honest, im managing to utterly baffle myself with control systems at the moment. When I last built a railway, there was DC. And erm...DC. That was it.

Nowadays i get up one day and think stick to what I know. Then i decide to go DCC. Then i start looking at them, get totally baffled, and crawl back under my rock with my barn door technology!

The more i think about it, the more im convinced that *some* form of DCC will be an advantage on a layour the size mine will end up being. Then i remember i know sod all about it, read some more, understand even less, and put my head in my hands again

 

[ntpntpntp]

The more i think about it, the more im convinced that *some* form of DCC will be an advantage on a layour the size mine will end up being. Then i remember i know sod all about it, read some more, understand even less, and put my head in my hands again

hehe - I'm sure we've all been at that stage! My route into DCC was via the cheapest N gauge DCC start-set I could find, simply to get a toe in the water and then go from there (I've had good old DC N gauge for 30 odd years). I had a specific aim to learn decoder programming and maybe play with computer control later. Never had any real intention of running DCC with my N gauge as I have far too many locos to afford the conversion.

However my G loco fleet is much smaller and I could see the benefits of DCC for a smaller fleet on a far less complex layout, eg. being able to have locos sitting anywhere on the track and be able call one up as desired without a myriad of section switches, cab control etc.

Start simple and build your knowlege as you go. You'll soon find it's not difficult after all!

 

[5H17]

I think youre spot on. Start simple. Sod it..im going to DCC the lot. I have after all, already got a Dynamis system with my N gauge, and a Lenz Digi Plus thats sitting around doing nothing.

Theres only 6 engines. To quote Jeremy Clarkson, 'how hard can it be??'

 

[whatlep]

I think youre spot on. Start simple. Sod it..im going to DCC the lot. I have after all, already got a Dynamis system with my N gauge, and a Lenz Digi Plus thats sitting around doing nothing.

Theres only 6 engines. To quote Jeremy Clarkson, 'how hard can it be??'

Not hard at all, but take some time to see other people's setups and have a natter. You're welcome to visit my DCC line near Malvern if it would be helpful.

 

[5H17]

That would probably be HUGELY helpful. Can I give you a shout sometime soon?
Odd thing is, I have DCC N gauge upstairs (but just because i have it doesnt mean I know how it works!)

 

[whatlep]

That would probably be HUGELY helpful. Can I give you a shout sometime soon?
Odd thing is, I have DCC N gauge upstairs (but just because i have it doesnt mean I know how it works!)

No problem. Just PM me as/when required.

 

[Gizzy]

If you are only running a couple of small trains the 2.5amps should do. You will need a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch to reverse the track power.

If using the 12volts for operating points I would only recommend operationg one point at a time.

The 5volts will operate about 20 to 25 LED's. for lighting.

You do not actually need the DPDT switch if you are using the Train Engineer as it will reverse the DC current for you.

However, there is no reason for not doing so if you feel the need to do so, and it could be useful for either a test track, rolling road, or as another way of running your trains should you have TE problems....