Tenmille Track.....is it any good!!!

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Model trains....G scale mainly, but enjoy all othe
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Evening all :bigsmile:
hope we are all well. I have just aquired some 60-70 feet(including 10 x 5' lengths) of Tenmille G gauge track along with 4 x Rad 5 Tenmille manual points. I know that to link up with my LGB track I will need some adapter fish plates, but my main question is.......is Tenmille track any good compared to LGB when used outdoors for any length of time. The time is fast approaching when I might actually get some track down(yipee!!) to start my railway, but I want to make sure I get off to a good start with the right track from the outset.
Any comments would be appreciated.......keep it clean now!!!
Thank you all
Kev :thumbup:
 
Made close to where I work in Suffolk.

They have a test track down which has stood the test of time. I believe it has been used on the Ipswich Model Engineers' Association track, but Ed (mmts) will be able to confirm this for certain....
 
Alot of 32 mmers I know seem to like it but the they generally don't send power down it :thinking:
 
garrymartin said:
Alot of 32 mmers I know seem to like it but the they generally don't send power down it :thinking:
Click to expand...
The G scale stuff is code 332, albeit with a narrower foot, so it should be as good as any other for power.

I recall that Neil Robinson uses it and connects to other makes of code 332 with rail clamps; he files some of the wider foot away to the same as the Tenmille so that it joins satisfactorily....
 
I've got tenmille and aristo mixed with no problems. The tenmille is mixture of a bulk second hand buy and the end of Glendales stock. The older stuff does appear a little more brittle (sleepers) but cleaned up ok. That said it is still fine to trim or drill. I have laid on blocks and screwed down it has been fine.
I have also recently bought a job lot of about 90 feet for less than a quid a foot to build a branchline extension.
There were two broken points in my original purchase and I have managed to repair one last Sunday -pleased with it. Let me know if you don't like yours;)
In summary more than happy.
PS no problems with connectivity although I have jumped all joints with copper cable. A move to live steam would save you track cleaning time.......
 
Yes I've got quite a lot of Tenmille flexi. It's seems just as good as LGB flexi to me.

As has already been said the height is the same as the LGB stuff (code 332) but the width at the bottom is a little narrower. As has also been said use the special adapter joiners or rail clamps and filing. At one time Hillmans made rails clamps for Tenmille.

I've had no problems with duarability or conductivity.

It was cheaper than LGB flexi when I got mine. No idea now what the price of new is.
 
Thank you all for the info, certainly looks like it would be well worth using the track in area's not seen so much so it would not look so obvious against my LGB track.I do have plans for a few long'ish tunnels so they would hide away in there nicely.
Night all :wave:
Kev
 
My Tenmille track, bought new, has been down best part of 10 yrs. I have not experienced any problems with it. Points were made by GRS and survive equally well!
 
I got some Hillman Tenmille profile railclamps at Garden Railway Centre in Cheltenham 1 year ago.

Track works great in garden mixed with LGB. Had mine down for 7 years. No deterioration of trackwork, or conductivity. Adapters to LGB work well, I use them to provide a sliding joint for a lift out section of track. All track joints have a dab of LGB graphite paste on them from new, including the brass conductivity strips on the adapters.

Might not be quite as robust as LGB due to the lighter rail profile. But then do you spend your time jumping up and down on the stuff ? :D

Max.
 
My tenmille track was fine till I took it up and the sleepers fell apart.

Be very carefull of the points. They are rather fragile and I think the reason they no longer make them is because quite a few people had issues.
 
I found a 32mm kit-built point was troublesome.
The system of using a soldering iron to melt the chairs onto the sleepers was dubious.
Making the mistake of screwing down the centre of the sleeper, led to curling up, more than Peco.
Be sure to screw both ends of the sleepers.

All my Tenmille is long since replaced by Peco.
 
All my track is Tenmille. Most of it is on its second railway and it has been outside for over 20 years, and I love it! I've got about 20 points, all built up from raw components (rail and sleeper packs, not kits) and by ignoring the "use soft solder" advice and going for silver solder they have all stood up well to weather and usage.
 
No trouble had with plain, flexible track but found the points to be very fragile.
When converting to digital (after trying to fit LGB point motors via Peco point adapters) I changed all the points to LGB.
I don't think that I found two Tenmille points that were identical- each one had variations in length and radius
 
I am still in the planning stage & doing a 100sm layout is fine for the 1st part using LGB. But after reading this i will think about doing the extension of track that i was thinking of for a later date. I would use 1 LGB points for a loop & 2 for an overtaking area & 58met of Tenmille track as i seem to be able to get this for around £6 a met & LGB will be 2-3 times the price. This is all for RC Battery.
 
I think you will find that the Tenmille track is a different 'code' to that from LGB, and others?
The code, refers to the height of the rail-section, in thousands of an inch.
LGB track is code 332. I believe Tenmille is code 250? - Might even be less.

As you are going to be 'dead-rail' absolutely no harm in using secondhand track.
Worth looking for 'job lots', from when a railway is dismantled.
Track even comes up occasionally on the Forum.

PhilP
 
Looks like Tenmille have stopped producing their code 332 rail, that was around 10 years ago, that still required an adaptor to mate to LGB types, very different rail section. Now they market a code 300 type for "G" scale. Worst of both worlds then, rail height and profile, though an adaptor is still required and listed.

Look out for job lots of their old code 332 going cheap, if you must. But be aware they never made any setrack curves, points or crossings for that, just flexi using their own webs. Strangely Hillman made direct to rail joiners for the old Tenmille code 332, (I have them) also out of production. I have some of the old Tenmille code 332 on my line bought during the "great LGB famine" of a few years ago. Works and bends and just as durable as the other more mainstream code 332 types. Max
 
collectors said:
Thanks for the info. I think i will buy some smaller bits of track 1st & see how well they will fit & how much adapting is needed. Its all for a lot of straights mainly & looking to save a bit of money. "Actually, a lot of money"
Click to expand...
I know this is an old thread but some of the info still very useful for reference to anyone going down a cheeper track route.

My friend in Somerset uses 10Mille Gauge 1 track as he likes it for his Swiss main metre gauge line look. He has now been using it for some 20 plus years. Only issue of note is that his LGB Track Cleaning Loco bounces a bit when cleaning but anyone with Dead Rail will not have that issue. I would also say with the gauge 1 track use flat headed pins to secure the track and pre drill the holes. He does not and after 3 lifts and relayings some of the sleepers have got well trashed.
 
I have a mix of Tenmille, Aristo, LGB, Piko and Trainline track and the only I've had problems with Aristo (screws rusting on pointwork), Piko (screws failing on pointwork) and LGB (loss of electrical continuity on pointwork). My Tenmille track has been down 18 years and not deteriorated but it is the older Code 332 stuff so, if you can get hold of their old or secondhand stock then it shouldn't be a problem. No experience with the lower profile rail so can't comment.

Rik
 
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