Tenmile track vs peco sm32

encore1332

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Hi new here, i have a small oval of tenmile track which really needs replacing and was wondering how peco track compared, I know my bricks i screw it to arent perfectly flat . my tenmile track hasnt really impressed me as the points have fallen apart and the metal rails have broken out of there clips. flat .Can be interesting to see how high i can make a truck flip but doesnt make me want to put my RH jack or silver lady on it. :thinking:
 
Hi Encore 1332

I installed a 0-16.5 layout in my garden 6 years ago.... after a year I found it too much trouble to keep clear and clean, so now have a 45mm gauge 'G' layout (see video link at base) I used Peco track for both. Lifting the 0-16.5 last year including points wasn't easy but everything was intact :thumbup: despite being mown over a few times. The 45mm track is Peco SL800 (Finescale - Gauge 1) and is incredibly strong. I can only give it the thumbs up....... the one caveat being that I run battery/RC kit, so do not rely on electrical contact with the rails :thinking:

Best of luck with your choice!!!

Rob
 
I have run with Peco 45m track using digital track power for over three years and am perfectly happy with it' Last week a group of us lifted a garden raiway where the owner had died. This was over 10 years old and we lifted nearly 200 yards of track and 40 points all in very good condition. Just need cleaning and relaying
 
funandtrains said:
The Peco SM32 track is a much smaller profile than the Peco G scale track.
[style="color: #0000ff;"]That's why I mentioned my six years experience with the even smaller (and intended for indoor use??!!) 0-16.5 track work outdoors! And I note that 'Encore' is running real steam and assumably doesn't require the electrical connectivity.

[style="color: #0000ff;"]Regards
[style="color: #0000ff;"]Rob
 
Avoid Tenmille. I had some of their 45mm track- fell apart. Peco is far stronger, had to re-soilder a few point blades but not a major issue. On the subject of Tenmille, ive had there wheels fall apart, some of their kits are real pigs and as I say their track isn't the best.
 
I would say that if wheels are clattering on chairs there is only one possible reason................the flanges are too big. Change the wheel profile. I use nothing but Peco G45 with Accucraft stock and locos (so far) and have had no hint of any trouble that could be attributed to the track. Yes the profile is smaller than LGB, but it's suitability depends entirely on what you are trying to scale, 3' -2'6" or 2'.

Increasing the flange depth does NOT ensure fewer de-railments, that comes down to the quality of the track laying, and the chassis flexibility of the stock, i.e if there are only three wheels of a bogie or truck in contact with the rail due to track distortion, then the free one is very likely to pop out of the groove, especially if it's leading. When laying track of whatever scale or gauge, frequent cross-checking with a level is VITAL.
 
been looking at some peco o gauge and think the flanges on my roundhouse trains will rub the chairs so will try some sm32. I can get hold of quite alot of sm32 track from just down the road - didnt know there was a garden railway there and noticed new people moved in and tearing up the track. i only have steam and battery trains so dont worried about electrical conductivity.
My tenmille track is driving me insane, it gets slightly wider at certain points and either the train ( not funny ) or truck comes of the rail and flies off.
having complained about my tenmille track i will say that the box it was delivered in originally was a bit bashed about, but at the time saw nothing wrong with the track.
thanks everyone for all your help
 
bobg said:
I would say that if wheels are clattering on chairs there is only one possible reason................the flanges are too big. Change the wheel profile. I use nothing but Peco G45 with Accucraft stock and locos (so far) and have had no hint of any trouble that could be attributed to the track. Yes the profile is smaller than LGB, but it's suitability depends entirely on what you are trying to scale, 3' -2'6" or 2'.

Increasing the flange depth does NOT ensure fewer de-railments, that comes down to the quality of the track laying, and the chassis flexibility of the stock, i.e if there are only three wheels of a bogie or truck in contact with the rail due to track distortion, then the free one is very likely to pop out of the groove, especially if it's leading. When laying track of whatever scale or gauge, frequent cross-checking with a level is VITAL.
Have to disagree with you on that one. I agree that good track is also important to avoid derailments but chunky wheels certainly do stay on the track better in my experience - especially in the garden, with bits of rubbish lying around.
 
stockers said:
bobg said:
I would say that if wheels are clattering on chairs there is only one possible reason................the flanges are too big. Change the wheel profile. I use nothing but Peco G45 with Accucraft stock and locos (so far) and have had no hint of any trouble that could be attributed to the track. Yes the profile is smaller than LGB, but it's suitability depends entirely on what you are trying to scale, 3' -2'6" or 2'.

Increasing the flange depth does NOT ensure fewer de-railments, that comes down to the quality of the track laying, and the chassis flexibility of the stock, i.e if there are only three wheels of a bogie or truck in contact with the rail due to track distortion, then the free one is very likely to pop out of the groove, especially if it's leading. When laying track of whatever scale or gauge, frequent cross-checking with a level is VITAL.
Have to disagree with you on that one. I agree that good track is also important to avoid derailments but chunky wheels certainly do stay on the track better in my experience - especially in the garden, with bits of rubbish lying around.

Well I'm sorry Stocks mate, we'll have to agree to disagree. I've had experience of virtually all gauges from 4' 8 1/2" down to 00, and there is no substitute for properly levelled track. Bigger flanges only delay the inevitable. Look at the flanges on full size and compare to smaller stuff which is almost all, way over scale, to allow for the difficulties of laying small sized track accurately. which means we should take MORE care not less. The more axles on the stock the bigger the problem. It's about flexibility which is inherant in long (full size) chassis and impossible to obtain in miniature due to much smaller mass.
 
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