Evening I have relayed some track to-day, 2 track off a pt coming into the garage, one on the lt the other on the rt, I jion these with a bridge, the new layout gives me a dead short, if I insulate both track put a 6pins switch in, centre to bridge, wire accross lt to rt, top to bottom. then feed top 2 wires to rt bottom 2 wire to lt have I got it right I am using LGB MTS. comments please Les
Stopping a dead short
- Thread starter Dinas Bryn
- Start date
Hi Les, from your description it sounds like you've created a reversing loop, is that right? If so, and as you are using MTS, the best solution is to get either an LGB or Massoth reverse loop control module which will take care of the problem simply and seamlessly. You can use a simple switch as you suggest, but you'll have to throw it manually every time a train traverses the loop - the little electronics module does it all for you automatically and you'll never even notice that it's there once it is set up.
Jon.
Jon.
Hi Jon, I understand what your saying ( I think)) BUT with the bridge down as is normal for my layout would it mean I will lose the loco train off at the bridge as I have done before I set up isolation on one side. I have got my son on the way down so he will put my drawing up for you to see.THinking about it now perhaps a centre off switch would be safer Les
LES
Is this a reverse loop yu have built ie do the trains come back on them selves?
If it is then the easiest way to sort this is to use and LGB MTS OR Massoth reverse loop module/
Is this a reverse loop yu have built ie do the trains come back on them selves?
If it is then the easiest way to sort this is to use and LGB MTS OR Massoth reverse loop module/
Hi as promised son is here and we will put up my drawing. As these sidings are over 40 feet long I use both at the same time so I thought doing it as per my drawing would be a lot safer and perhaps a lot cheaper. Your comments on the drawing appreciated as this is the way I have done it in the past for analogue ( if you like ) in O Gauge days. Les
UUm these are dead end sidings? if so the only way a short can get in there is from your switch, you need to isolate the track from the main line at the point, usually I do it on one rail but this DCC stuff may require both rails to be isolated then a simple on off switch fitted across the gap will fix it.....................Paul......................
hmmm.... from the description and diagram I'm still having trouble interpreting exactly what you have, is it something like this? (I'm probably completely wrong!)
If so then that would be why you'd get a dead short without having isolation gaps somewhere.
If it were me, I'd isolate both rails at A and B, and make the whole shaded section under the control of a DCC reversing unit *but* with a master on/off switch to kill power to the whole shaded section, that way if anything should run into that section while the bridge is "up" it will stop on the curves and not take a dive. Of course if you were to back a train up the sidings you'd really need some sort of physical buffer-stop to prevent the wagons taking a tumble!
Remember that the length of track in the reversable section (the shaded section) would need to be long enough to accomodate your longest train. Traditionally with a reversing loop the isolating gaps would be down near the point, but this way you get to use the sidings and only need the the bit that "completes" the loop to be under control of the reversing unit.
If so then that would be why you'd get a dead short without having isolation gaps somewhere.
If it were me, I'd isolate both rails at A and B, and make the whole shaded section under the control of a DCC reversing unit *but* with a master on/off switch to kill power to the whole shaded section, that way if anything should run into that section while the bridge is "up" it will stop on the curves and not take a dive. Of course if you were to back a train up the sidings you'd really need some sort of physical buffer-stop to prevent the wagons taking a tumble!
Remember that the length of track in the reversable section (the shaded section) would need to be long enough to accomodate your longest train. Traditionally with a reversing loop the isolating gaps would be down near the point, but this way you get to use the sidings and only need the the bit that "completes" the loop to be under control of the reversing unit.
Many thanks, your drawing is spot on, I already have done A as trains only ran from accross the bridge never coming back, with this revised layout and pt they will be useing both roads both ways, so my old way will not work on DCC. as I am on LGB kit would it make sence to use them? No doubt they will give me a wiring diagram. Many thanks for your help Les
Dinas Bryn said:
There are cheaper alternatives out there, but LGB or Massoth kit is good and is hopefully properly designed for large scale. I expect others on GSC will recommend these units.
I have a reversing unit by Tonys Train Exchange sitting on my shelf waiting to be played with, but I've not yet had a situation that needs to use it on my line (It was an irresistable eBay bargain at the time!)
Dinas Bryn said:
Use Massoth's reversing loop unit in preference. It's cheaper and better than the LGB branded unit (which is also made by Massoth, just to confuse matters!). Comes with full instructions and high quality isolating joiners with tabs for attaching the necessary wiring.
If you get stuck, just ask. As you've found, the locals are both friendly and canny!
Many thanks for your comments, I will go for the Massoth unit, you are right there are a number of very helpful members in the NW and Wales area, I am very lucky Les