Steel track
- Thread starter D J Mason
- Start date
On the face of it it might sound a cheaper way to go, but ordinary steel rail rusts if not in constant use. That becomes a serious problem when you want to draw current though it. I use steel rail most of the time for my "bigger" gauge (steam only) and even overnight a skin can appear if the conditions decree. That suits me, coz it gives more grip till it wears off.
Steel track is fine for live steam, but I reckon you'll have problems if you use it for an electrically powered layout?
I would have thought that Cliff Barker will advise the same....
I would have thought that Cliff Barker will advise the same....
Nickle silver is good for outside and electrical conduction but it will depend on the quality of the steel you buy, I have used nickle silver outdoors in the past but I could only find code 250 which caused problems with LGB wheelsets so in the end went back to brass. also the good quality Nickle track cost more than the brass at the time so there really was no advantage. also make sure it is SOLID nickle silver the plated stuff is abysmal and just will not last before wearing off the plating.......................I still have about 60ft of unused code 250..........................................
DJ I tried this question last year on this forum but got very little feed back. But I did meet a G3 (64mm) exhibitor at G Scale Wickham last month who had re laid his full railway in Cliff Baker s/s and he swore by it. It would seem that you will need to talk to G3 people for in depth info. I would very much recommend a visit to the G3 AGM I have been to the last 2 and found the show exhibits very interesting. As the scale is also 22.5 it is compatible with LGB. If Cliff had 45 mm sleepers I would go for it like a shot. Only other thing is you would have to go back to LGB or Peco for points, or make your own I think, as again he has no setup for 45mm points. Peco/LGB joiners also work with his rail.
oldoak said:
Oldoak, I notice that you put s/s in your post, that is normally used to indicate STAINLESS STEEL (or sometimes SILVER STEEL which would still be troublesome) and is a whole different story. What DJ asked about was just steel. I've tried a quick search for Cliff Baker products and drew a blank, can you confirm whether we are talking just mild/silver steel or stainless, there is a vast difference in performance.
Better yet, try re-reading the post, it's Cliff Barker, not Baker. I have now found his site and his rail is STAINLESS STEEL, as I said a whole new ball game. Stainless or to give it it's correct term, rustless steel, will not corrode but will develop an acceptable patina. It could still be prone to a build up of dirt on the surface, just the same as brass or nickle silver. It's electrical conductivity is a little less than brass or n/s but probably not so you'd notice on the kind of lengths that we tend to use. I would suggest that if you find a cost saving, or other advantage, go for it.