Stainz 2010 Locomotive Running Rough

[Tripoli]

I have a 1979 Stainz 2010. It’s been beat to hell for half of the last 40 years, but mostly was still running just fine. A couple days ago, it stated struggling to run forward. Runs smooth in reverse. Forward, it’s going about a third slower than normal, and it sounds like the motor is struggling. I’ve never had it apart, and aside from occasionally pulling cat hair out where I can see it, it’s never had any maintenance of any kind. Any suggestions? I’m somewhat mechanically inclined, and a little less comfortable with electronics.

 

[PhilP]

From your photo:
It looks like one axle may have jumped a tooth, so the motion may be binding in the forward direction?

PhilP.

 

[Gizzy]

If PhilP is right, then you should be able to remove the bottom plate carefully with the loco upside down.

Then you can lift one of the axles and re-align the quartering....

 

[Alpineandy]

At that age if its done some miles without any maintenance it will need to be stripped and thoroughly cleaned. If you are lucky the motor will be ok but the brushes will probably have had it. In terms of electronics it will be basic.

 

[Tripoli]

I don’t think it’s an issue with the quartering. I compared it to my other Stainz, and they looked the same. I’ve found that if I run it hard for a few minutes, it sometimes frees it up, and it runs well again for a while.

Here’s a video of it:

You can see it hesitate at one point, and then during the back half of the video, you can hear it making some noise, almost sounds like rubbing in the motor.

I don’t have the first clue how to service it. From what little I’ve read, it sounds complicated.

 

[MTheStrong]

At that age if its done some miles without any maintenance it will need to be stripped and thoroughly cleaned. If you are lucky the motor will be ok but the brushes will probably have had it. In terms of electronics it will be basic.

I agree that the most likely cause are worn brushes. Also I noted that the pickup shoe is not flat against the rail. It could well be that it too needs replacing along with perhaps a worn spring.

None of these tasks is particularly difficult and involves removing the motor plate.

 

[phils2um]

Your 2010 probably has a clam-shell motor block considering its age. Still not too difficult to service. Just need patience and perseverance and something to catch the parts, including the two thrust bearings I recently mentioned in another post. Check the on-line videos.

Edit added: Here is a link to one video:

 

[JimmyB]

Your 2010 probably has a clam-shell motor block considering its age. Still not too difficult to service. Just need patience and perseverance and something to catch the parts, including the two thrust bearings I recently mentioned in another post. Check the on-line videos.

Edit added: Here is a link to one video:

I have one looks very similar, metal gear, raised numbers etc, and it is definitely a clamshell.

 

[phils2um]

Just watched the video again myself. I'd forgotten about the flying brushes when the wheels come off! Beware! Also a tip for the reassembly. I use a piece of painters tape to hold the brushes in place when I put the wheels back on.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

It is indeed a little out of quarter, but I don't think that is your issue, I suspect motor brushes, but check the pickup brushes and springs as you go in.

 

[dunnyrail]

A good clean and new lube would also be appropriate, do not loose those thrust bearings and as was said dismantle on a tray. From memory old clamshell motor units come out easier than the current ones. Take a digital picture at each stage if you have a digi camera or camera phone then that will be your put back together plan in reverse. Tje first pull apart is always the hardest, but in fact the hardest part is finding the courage to do it.

 

[Paul M]

I don't suppose you're close to any other forumites who could help you out?

 

[Tripoli]

Your 2010 probably has a clam-shell motor block considering its age. Still not too difficult to service. Just need patience and perseverance and something to catch the parts, including the two thrust bearings I recently mentioned in another post. Check the on-line videos.

Edit added: Here is a link to one video:

Great video! Definitely makes me feel like I could manage disassembly and reassembly. What I'm not sure about is actually performing maintenance on the motor, which wasn't covered here. I've never messed with electric motors before. I had to google what "brushes" were. I wouldn't know where to begin with what to buy, how to clean, and how to install.

 

[Tripoli]

I don't suppose you're close to any other forumites who could help you out?

Sadly, I'm a loner. Best I have is a good local train shop. They have an outside repair guy, but he's extremely slow, and very expensive. Just not worth it for a Stainz, I don't think, though it was my first model train.

 

[Paul M]

A small tip or 2.
1) Always work over a tray or something similar to catch dropped bits
2) Take pictures of every step, so you know how it all goes back together, and hopefully avoid the left over spring situation

 

[phils2um]

There are two different kinds of brushes involved. The ones I've referred to are small graphite cylinders that make contact with the back faces of the wheels. I believe those that Greg is referring to in post 10 are internal to the motor itself and are not really user replaceable parts. (In the GSC Resources there is an explanation of how it has been done. It's not simple.)I think most of use would just buy a replacement motor (or find cheap donor loco to cannibalize on Ebay) when there is a problem with the electric motor itself.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Correct Phil, I'm suspecting worn brushes in the motor, and I thought you used to be able to replace them. The motor might just need a commutator cleaning (junk between segments)

Greg

 

[phils2um]

The motor might just need a commutator cleaning (junk between segments)

While you've got the motor block open it certainly would not hurt to blow the crap out of the motor (both figuratively and literally) with some contact cleaner. If you do, make sure you put a small drop of model train oil on the bushings where the rotor shaft exits the body of the motor after you're done.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Remember to use contact cleaner that is plastic safe.

CRC Electronics cleaner is a better bet in the USA. Contact cleaners sometimes have lubricants in them (comes from the old "TV tuner" era.

Greg

 

[Dan]

If this is truly a 1979 stainz engine, it could be the 'growler' version. The first Stainz and Elias engines were 'growler' motor blocks.