Spring points

[adeshers]

My reverse loop is fully automatic and the LGB R1 radius point is spring worked BUT not all my stock likes pushing the blades against the spring and some derail :thumbdown:. Before I alter anything can I ask the perceived wisdom of those of you who have already been here if spring worked points are better being set in one particular direction.
I'll clarify (I hope). My track design dictated that the trains go through the point facing taking the straight leg (Main line), go round the loop and push the points over using the curved leg (Branch line). This was my preference but can be swapped if those that know recommend only using spring points in the straight line direction 8|. If I hadn't just ballasted the loop I would have experimented but my thought process takes so long that I've usually done something to make life awkward before the light-bulb suddenly illuminates above my head .

 

[Neil Robinson]

I have not had this problem very often, but when it happened it was always with the smaller, lighter, items of rolling stock.
I suggest adding a reasonable amount of ballast weight to the offending items of rolling stock or not using them in automatically reversing trains.

 

[C&S]

Must admit I have not very much experience, though do occasionally trail through "wrongly set" points while shunting - mostly without a problem. However I think I have better results with metal wheels compared with plastic ones. Also all (or just about all) my stock has bogies; same with you or are some 4-wheelers ? I supect the latter might prefer to trail throuugh the straight road. Is wagon weight a factor, too?

 

[adeshers]

I have not had this problem very often, but when it happened it was always with the smaller, lighter, items of rolling stock.
I suggest adding a reasonable amount of ballast weight to the offending items of rolling stock or not using them in automatically reversing trains.

Very quick off the mark there Neil - the trouble is my railway only consists of the station area with a run to the reverse loop and back so I'd like to run all my stock, loaded as well as empty

 

[adeshers]

Must admit I have not very much experience, though do occasionally trail through "wrongly set" points while shunting - mostly without a problem. However I think I have better results with metal wheels compared with plastic ones. Also all (or just about all) my stock has bogies; same with you or are some 4-wheelers ? I supect the latter might prefer to trail throuugh the straight road. Is wagon weight a factor, too?

Hi Giles, without doubt the heavier the vehicle the less of a problem it becomes. My coaches with metal wheels successfully complete the circuit and the heavier wagons are okay but put an empty 4 wheeler or plastic wheeled bogie wagon in the train and it's asking for trouble. The trouble is the wagons that are worst cannot have their wheelsets changed (as they were built from Andel kits) without major surgery :impatient:

 

[minimans]

Why not power the point? a simple reed switch and power to the point motor will throw the point in the correct direction then you won't have to worry? on my EPL controlled station's I used a feed from the opposing road to throw the leading and trailing points at the same time.

 

[dutchelm]

If it the same vehicles that cause problems check the back to back measurements of the wheels. This is the cause of many problems with sprung points.
If the wheels are over gauge they try to push the points over too soon & encounter too much resistance.

 

[Gizzy]

If it the same vehicles that cause problems check the back to back measurements of the wheels. This is the cause of many problems with sprung points.
If the wheels are over gauge they try to push the points over too soon & encounter too much resistance.

I'd go with that idea?

If the wheel profile of the Andel wagons is different to LGB, that also may be the problem, although as you mentioned, that might be difficult for you to resolve....

 

[bobg]

Must admit I have not very much experience, though do occasionally trail through "wrongly set" points while shunting - mostly without a problem. However I think I have better results with metal wheels compared with plastic ones. Also all (or just about all) my stock has bogies; same with you or are some 4-wheelers ? I supect the latter might prefer to trail throuugh the straight road. Is wagon weight a factor, too?

Hi Giles, without doubt the heavier the vehicle the less of a problem it becomes. My coaches with metal wheels successfully complete the circuit and the heavier wagons are okay but put an empty 4 wheeler or plastic wheeled bogie wagon in the train and it's asking for trouble. The trouble is the wagons that are worst cannot have their wheelsets changed (as they were built from Andel kits) without major surgery :impatient:

May I suggest that with your lighter (troublesome) waggons you stick a piece of lead underneath the floor so you don't loose too much weight when running empty. Other than that, can you loosen the tension on the point spring a little. Too much and of course it may become unreliable in operation.

 

[nicebutdim]

I had this issue with both my loops, a couple Bachmann wheels were proving to be a pain and was found to be the back to back measurement. But, I changed my loops so on the return the wheels push the blades on the straight, and made sure the spring mech is clean and the point is laying really flat. Also a touch of graphite grease on the little contacts that the blades sit on near their tip. All this has stopped alot of the issues I was having, and 99% of the time even light stock has no problem with them now.

 

[adeshers]

Thanks for all the replies . I've just experimented with a hand pulled train going round the loop the 'wrong' way and the wagons I used operated the points without trouble so I think that's the way to go for me. I'm also going to add weight to the lightest wagons as suggested as I'm sure it will improve their movement along the track in general.

 

[stevedenver]

May I suggest that with your lighter (troublesome) waggons you stick a piece of lead underneath the floor so you don't loose too much weight when running empty. Other than that, can you loosen the tension on the point spring a little. Too much and of course it may become unreliable in operation.
[/quote]
absolutely- i use spring points a lot-

light cars can derail-metal wheelsets can also help with weight
the other thing
the points mechanisms needs to be cleaned and graphited-ie -open the box disassemble and really clean all the moving parts-use a toothbrush and get it as close to new as you possibly can -look for nicks and burrs-smooth them or polish with plastic polish if needed

and dust generously with graphite powder or dry teflon powder-do the same to the contact plates where the points slide (in between the sleepers theres a bright silver plate -these become a bit rough-clean with a cotton swab and use fine metal polish and remove all residue-then dry lube-also very lightly lube the travel points of the blades which are near the frog -i usually blow out with air-spray with electrical lube-ie poteniometer cleaner-you can use anything tho-and a drop or normal light model oil-or graphite
-this is periodically needed for top operation- particles do make things move less easily

be careful with the spring-they can rust and they can become brittle and break-clean is the thing, then a bit of weight- personally i would not change the tension-but rahter clean an lube-a dry lube will prevent collecting stuff-other lubes work fine but will collect stuff eventually