Nice to say that the 100 watt iron did the trick. I did this time take each piece of track into the shed to do the biz, rather than outside in the cold. (It was b****y snowing again anyway!!)
Soldering track
- Thread starter laney
- Start date
HI LAney
from one soldering virgin to another any tips. I was going to use the earthing cable from mainscable as Ive got some spare what did you use did you clmp the iece together. going to order 100 watt Draper iron which seams to do it as a pulse when you pull the trigger.
any help welcome as I spent a frustrating hour trying to solder with a less powerful iron and got no where other than melting solder. on reflection I should have just asked.
from one soldering virgin to another any tips. I was going to use the earthing cable from mainscable as Ive got some spare what did you use did you clmp the iece together. going to order 100 watt Draper iron which seams to do it as a pulse when you pull the trigger.
any help welcome as I spent a frustrating hour trying to solder with a less powerful iron and got no where other than melting solder. on reflection I should have just asked.
I've always used a 75 watt iron with no problems (even when the ambient temperature was below freezing).
http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2006/05/how-did-i-bond-rails.html < Link To
RIk
http://riksrailway.blogspot.com/2006/05/how-did-i-bond-rails.html < Link To
RIk
craigrailinc said:
It's not so much the heat it's the way you do it.
First off
Clean all the parts to a bright finish, even if they look clean.
second
Tin all the parts prior to actually soldering.
You can preflux the parts but multicore on its own should be ok if you have enough heat.
I use a 200 watt soldering iron and even then it's difficult unless the weather is warm enough! This is to solder heavy duty wire to my track ends to provide electrical continuity on my LGB track. The hard part is getting localised heat to melt the solder without melting the plastic sleepers.
Terry
Terry
Anyone tried one of these? http://www.toolbox.co.uk/gas-soldering-irons-3443-0000
http://www.toolbox.co.uk/gas-soldering-irons-3443-0000
http://www.toolbox.co.uk/gas-soldering-irons-3443-0000
I have
I have two gas torches at work here, they are good for small electrical soldering ie. upside down under a Rolls-Royce dashboard!! but soldering rail? I think you would run out of gas before you got it hot enough.............................. As I've said before I used a small butane torch for soldering rail and not had a problem it heats the area very quickly then apply a damp rag after you apply the solder and you wont burn the ties.
Steveford666 said:
I have two gas torches at work here, they are good for small electrical soldering ie. upside down under a Rolls-Royce dashboard!! but soldering rail? I think you would run out of gas before you got it hot enough.............................. As I've said before I used a small butane torch for soldering rail and not had a problem it heats the area very quickly then apply a damp rag after you apply the solder and you wont burn the ties.
I've no idea whether I'm doing it right - but this works with my 75 watt iron. I agree, the rail and the bit both need to be as clean as possible and then I 'tin' the rails and the wire used for the jumper.
I apply the iron to the rail pressing hard for around 3 seconds, and then start applying the solder between the iron and the rail. I find the melting solder seems to increase the heat flow to the rail and the solder then starts flowing along the rail as the heat spreads. In a few seconds (usually less than 5) there's sufficient solder on the rail so I can remove the iron. Not had a problem with melting the sleepers.
Occasionally the solder doesn't flow, usually because I've not cleaned the rail sufficiently well. So I start all over again, giving the rail an extra bit of a clean. I use a triangle section needle file with a squared-off end. That way I can really get the oxidisation layer off the brass. After tinning the ends of the wire I hold the wire against the tinned rail (with pointed nosed pliers) and apply the heat again with a bit more new solder as above to assist with the heat transfer. Usually have to hold the wire in place for a second or two while the solder cools (usually assisted with some gentle blowing).
Seems to work for me. Just the occasional dry-joint but most of them have been out there now for around four years and are going strong.
No idea if I'm breaking any of the golden rules of soldering - but it seems to work for me!
Rik
I apply the iron to the rail pressing hard for around 3 seconds, and then start applying the solder between the iron and the rail. I find the melting solder seems to increase the heat flow to the rail and the solder then starts flowing along the rail as the heat spreads. In a few seconds (usually less than 5) there's sufficient solder on the rail so I can remove the iron. Not had a problem with melting the sleepers.
Occasionally the solder doesn't flow, usually because I've not cleaned the rail sufficiently well. So I start all over again, giving the rail an extra bit of a clean. I use a triangle section needle file with a squared-off end. That way I can really get the oxidisation layer off the brass. After tinning the ends of the wire I hold the wire against the tinned rail (with pointed nosed pliers) and apply the heat again with a bit more new solder as above to assist with the heat transfer. Usually have to hold the wire in place for a second or two while the solder cools (usually assisted with some gentle blowing).
Seems to work for me. Just the occasional dry-joint but most of them have been out there now for around four years and are going strong.
No idea if I'm breaking any of the golden rules of soldering - but it seems to work for me!
Rik
Sounds like your becoming an expert!! When you add a bit of splder to the iron you do indeed increase the heat transfer to the rail. with a bit of practice you can easily tell when the rail is hot enough as the solder will literaly flow off the iron to the rail when you see this it's time to apply the wire and another dab of solder make sure you keep the wire tight to the rail while it cools. A dry joint doesn't flow the solder from the iron to rail it just blob's! if your honest with yourself and take your time you will be able to tell the difference..............