Slow and Hot Stainz Loco..... Help please.
- Thread starter dude2112
- Start date
dude2112
Registered
Thanks for the link Sparky, very usefull.Today I have mucked up the quartering by messing too much, do not like being beaten by these things
Believe it or not I am a tool setter and maintenance fitter at work...... :-
My thinking now I have calmed down is..... there is no point sorting the quartering out until I fit the new motor.
Is that correct ?
Then I take all the side rods of and start from scratch ?
I do not currently own any nut spinners. I will get some but I only know of the Expo sets, has anyone tried any others ?
Andy.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
dude2112 said:
I know it's probably a bit late now, Andy, as you first raised the problem several days ago - but do you have any chance of recourse against whoever you bought the Stainz from? If it was from a dealer, really they should do something about it for you - and if it was an eBay purchase you should also be protected if it's genuinely faulty.... sorry, maybe I should have suggested this before you started taking it apart..... ???
Jon.
dude2112
Registered
Here we go...... :-
Today I have finally had time to sort my loco.
The quartering is sorted
I have also managed to strip the loco and taken out the motor, a new one will be ordered.
The drive train does seem a bit stiff compared to the 00 I am used to but with all the side rods I am not surprised, I will see if I can improve the free running whilst it is un-attached.
The motor still runs hot but I will now strip it to see why ?
I am more chuffed with the fact that I am now able to take one of these locos apart successfully.
I have tested the sound and lights separately and they work fine...
I guess the power transfer is motor first then sound and lights after but you all probably know this...
Andy.
Today I have finally had time to sort my loco.
The quartering is sorted
I have also managed to strip the loco and taken out the motor, a new one will be ordered.
The drive train does seem a bit stiff compared to the 00 I am used to but with all the side rods I am not surprised, I will see if I can improve the free running whilst it is un-attached.
The motor still runs hot but I will now strip it to see why ?
I am more chuffed with the fact that I am now able to take one of these locos apart successfully.
I have tested the sound and lights separately and they work fine...
I guess the power transfer is motor first then sound and lights after but you all probably know this...
Andy.
stevedenver
Registered
as usual late to the party
first, you mention it doesn't rotate as effortlessly as others-id check rods etc, , but as they are plastic , theres nothing to bend
second, for the motor,
my first thought was its worn out, the heat is telling, versus sluggishness alone, imho.
you dont mention the wheel and skate wear, but often these correlate, in terms of visible wear and motor life, to some extent, but not always.
I might suggest, as a last resort to salvage your motor, if possible,
that you rinse (literally) the motor in meths, 91% if you can obtain them, to remove the electrical lube.
meths dry quickly and reinse the suspended carbon dust and grot, which the lube washes away temporarily and then holds the carbon dust. I have learned this first hand.
I have had much success with the meths rinse, provided this is the problem. I know too that meths are pricey in the UK compared to the US, but, I find them useful for removing oily stuff. avoid getting them on the plastic, as they can leave a stubborn white film, which has to be polished off.
fwiw you can run the motor while wet with meths, but, in your case since its getting hot, id let it dry , or use computer compressed air to expedite drying.
I am guessing a new motor.
fwiw stainz are tricky, and a good fit isn't aways acheived on first reassembly. ive done these a few times and have gotten used to starting over to make things perfect.
while it works well at first squirt, electrical lube should not be used on the commutator ring or brushes imho
first, you mention it doesn't rotate as effortlessly as others-id check rods etc, , but as they are plastic , theres nothing to bend
second, for the motor,
my first thought was its worn out, the heat is telling, versus sluggishness alone, imho.
you dont mention the wheel and skate wear, but often these correlate, in terms of visible wear and motor life, to some extent, but not always.
I might suggest, as a last resort to salvage your motor, if possible,
that you rinse (literally) the motor in meths, 91% if you can obtain them, to remove the electrical lube.
meths dry quickly and reinse the suspended carbon dust and grot, which the lube washes away temporarily and then holds the carbon dust. I have learned this first hand.
I have had much success with the meths rinse, provided this is the problem. I know too that meths are pricey in the UK compared to the US, but, I find them useful for removing oily stuff. avoid getting them on the plastic, as they can leave a stubborn white film, which has to be polished off.
fwiw you can run the motor while wet with meths, but, in your case since its getting hot, id let it dry , or use computer compressed air to expedite drying.
I am guessing a new motor.
fwiw stainz are tricky, and a good fit isn't aways acheived on first reassembly. ive done these a few times and have gotten used to starting over to make things perfect.
while it works well at first squirt, electrical lube should not be used on the commutator ring or brushes imho