RH Russell vs RH Vale of Rheidol

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HighlandLtRwy

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Hi...new member. For those of you who have had or currently do have both the Roundhouse Vale of Rheidol loco and the Russell, what would the main differences be? Plusses/minuses? I have the opportunity for an unused, NIB 2011 VoR or would be ordering a new Russell. Interested in the dimensional differences as well as power and ease of use of the two. Thanks very much in advance for the input!
 
HighlandLtRwy said:
Hi...new member. For those of you who have had or currently do have both the Roundhouse Vale of Rheidol loco and the Russell, what would the main differences be? Plusses/minuses? I have the opportunity for an unused, NIB 2011 VoR or would be ordering a new Russell. Interested in the dimensional differences as well as power and ease of use of the two. Thanks very much in advance for the input!
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Decisions, decisions! To be honest if they're both Roundhouse, the reliability should be good and same with both locos. I know folk who have these locos and are very happy with them.I'm not sure of the dimensions though.
Doesn't help much does it, sorry! Have vyou tried the Roundhouse website, it gives the loco details on it.
 
HighlandLtRwy said:
Hi...new member. For those of you who have had or currently do have both the Roundhouse Vale of Rheidol loco and the Russell, what would the main differences be? Plusses/minuses? I have the opportunity for an unused, NIB 2011 VoR or would be ordering a new Russell. Interested in the dimensional differences as well as power and ease of use of the two. Thanks very much in advance for the input!
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I have a Russel and it manages R1 curves ok as it is very much based on the standard Lady Anne chassis, however I believe that the VofR loco requires larger radius (diameter) curves.
 
Having seen both these locos in the metal this year, I can confirm that the VoR loco is much bigger than Russell (in its current form).

Certainly, the VoR locos are quite wide, wider than the coaching stock that they haul....

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The extra 12mm, or so, either side may give you a gauging problem on an existing railway built with smaller loco's in mind..

If you are just starting out, and fancy the VoR model, perhaps later, you can take this into consideration.

You do need to be a lot more generous with your curves.. Not only for aesthetics, but for ease of running as well.

PhilP
 
Both great locos, but the VoR locos have a water gauge and boiler top-up valve - useful features but not vital. Looking at my Roundhouse Russell, I don't think it is easily - or at all - possible to retro-fit theses items but I would love to be told I am wrong.
 
Thinking a bit more about this. Yes the VOR, is very impressive, and big, the Russell will probably give you more flexibility with what you build, and if it's your first steamer, probably easier to use
 
Thornhill said:
Both great locos, but the VoR locos have a water gauge and boiler top-up valve - useful features but not vital. Looking at my Roundhouse Russell, I don't think it is easily - or at all - possible to retro-fit theses items but I would love to be told I am wrong.
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Boiler top up valve may be possible if there is a separate water fill and safety valve fitting. Yes the water gauge a bit tricky, but on the basis that Roundhouse locomotives have water and gas balanced to both expire around the same time both pretty well irrelevant.
 
Very many thanks for all the great information and opinions. This will be the first of a small collection of 16 mm locos. Whichever one is not first will certainly come later as these are two of my favorites. Considering the age of the production run of the VoRs, and the hope of finding an unused/little used, well taken care of example was of some consideration. The VoR would be converted to Fosworks and painted/lined. A plus is the inclusion of a factory whistle and the simulated blow down. Cost to obtain one plus the work desired is pretty high. A new Russell with the same treatment, minus the blowdown would allow some funds for goods and passenger stock.
 
One thing to watch with a 2-6-2 is de-railing of the front bogie. My railway has reversing loops at each end and I run a RH Russell. The loops have a sprung point at entry/exit so that trains can go round without me having to manually change the point. The Russell, and also a Bachmann Lyn, both consistently derail the front bogie when going through the sprung point. I have tried adding weight to the bogie and also a spring but no luck so far.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 
Moonraker said:
One thing to watch with a 2-6-2 is de-railing of the front bogie. My railway has reversing loops at each end and I run a RH Russell. The loops have a sprung point at entry/exit so that trains can go round without me having to manually change the point. The Russell, and also a Bachmann Lyn, both consistently derail the front bogie when going through the sprung point. I have tried adding weight to the bogie and also a spring but no luck so far.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
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That's interesting, my Lyn doesn't like pushing through points either, but I thought it was down to repair done, some years ago, to the front bogie.
 
Paul M said:
That's interesting, my Lyn doesn't like pushing through points either, but I thought it was down to repair done, some years ago, to the front bogie.
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I have a Bachmann 10-wheeler, with a new Annie chassis, and even with extra weight and modifications as shown on the web, it does not like point at all.
 
Moonraker said:
One thing to watch with a 2-6-2 is de-railing of the front bogie. My railway has reversing loops at each end and I run a RH Russell. The loops have a sprung point at entry/exit so that trains can go round without me having to manually change the point. The Russell, and also a Bachmann Lyn, both consistently derail the front bogie when going through the sprung point. I have tried adding weight to the bogie and also a spring but no luck so far.

Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
Click to expand...
Have you tried a revision of the spring arrangement? A piece of spring wire can work equally well a d you have the option of adjustment by making the wire longer. Fitting can be a bit of a trial, on the side of the sleepers works well enough soldered into a screw. You can even solder some small tube into the screw and fit the wire after, handy if it rusts.
 
For those that may have one, or have access to the info, what are the specifics as to the length over buffer, width, height, and weight of a VoR? Would love to see a photo of the two (Russell and VoR) together for a comparison. Thanks again!
 
If you look under Roundhouse VoF and Russell, they have all the sizes etc on the website. Unfortunately they don't seem to have anything of the2 side by side. I'm pretty sure the Russell is taller than the VoR though
 
A few years ago I needed dimensions of a Roundhouse locomotive in connection with a bridge building project. They were very helpful in providing drawings, and might be able to help you.

Andrew
 
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