Removing joiners from LGB track?

A

Andrew_au

Registered
Country flag
Gradually starting to replace my existing LGB "slide on" joiners with rail clamps. Two motivations:
  • Track will stay together without the need for those little black tags (that fall off and bend the sleepers)
  • If I need to pull out a section of track I can open the joiners and lift it straight out, rather than need to slide large chunks of other track
    • Especially annoying when the "rail section" is a junction in the middle of a yard
    • This is why I don't want over-joiner clamps
However, the existing joiners are fastened to the rail (on one end) with both a little tab in the sleeper and an indent that fits into the rail. I've found there is just enough slack to pull the tab out without damaging the plastic lugs holding the rail to the sleeper. However, in order to do so I need to completely unfold the joiner with a pair of pliers and then tug it down and out. This requires not insignificant effort and pretty much destroys the joiner.

Does anyone know an easier way to do this?

(I realise this isn't an issue for flex track or some 3rd party track, but I'm running with what I have at the moment)
 
Hi Andrew,
There was an instructional video available on this subject but I can't find it at the moment.
From memory and experience from a long time ago you require a small length of old rail [about 50mm], a largish flat bladed screwdriver and a bench vice. You slide the short rail length into the joiner leaving a millimeter or two gap between it and the existing rail, then clamp the joiner and short rail length together firmly in the vice supporting the track piece with one hand. Inserting the screwdriver blade and turning it displaces the rail by pushing the it backwards out of the joiner and along the sleeper bed. [If you have R5 curves they have a joiner in the middle of the curve which you have to be careful with]. Generally this method works fine and you end up with re-usable joiners too,
The above may sound a bit complicated so it maybe better to wait until the brains trust of this site come up with a link to the video, however. Or a clearer explanation.........
Best of luck.
Ian
 
Andrew_au said:
Gradually starting to replace my existing LGB "slide on" joiners with rail clamps. Two motivations:
  • Track will stay together without the need for those little black tags (that fall off and bend the sleepers)
  • If I need to pull out a section of track I can open the joiners and lift it straight out, rather than need to slide large chunks of other track
    • Especially annoying when the "rail section" is a junction in the middle of a yard
    • This is why I don't want over-joiner clamps
However, the existing joiners are fastened to the rail (on one end) with both a little tab in the sleeper and an indent that fits into the rail. I've found there is just enough slack to pull the tab out without damaging the plastic lugs holding the rail to the sleeper. However, in order to do so I need to completely unfold the joiner with a pair of pliers and then tug it down and out. This requires not insignificant effort and pretty much destroys the joiner.

Does anyone know an easier way to do this?

(I realise this isn't an issue for flex track or some 3rd party track, but I'm running with what I have at the moment)
Click to expand...
This is one way.
My favourite method was also on YT but looks like the vid taken down, but essentially you place a short piece of LGB rail in the fishplate with a small gap to the existing rail, clamp the fishplate where the short piece of rail is in a vice, put a big screwdriver in the gap and wedge the rail out. As the main rail is not clamped it will move with the force much in the way that the lady method does. The real benefit of both these methods is no track or fishplate damage.

Some on here favour a near demolition job on the fishplate but to me that risks breaking some of the rail clamping plastic on the sleepers.
 
Andrew_au said:
This requires not insignificant effort and pretty much destroys the joiner.
Click to expand...
What is your concern? You don't actually plan on reusing the joiners do you? I use needle nose pliers to open up the joiners then bend them down to unhook the tab. I certainly do not consider this significant effort. But, like you say, it does pretty much destroy the joiner. No damage to the tie though!
 
Last edited:
Drill out the dimple on the underside. Then grip and pull the joiner, by its base, with a pair of long nose pliers. The tab on the end of the joiner will unfold as you pull. Off will come the joiner ready for reuse if required. No vice required. Well that's the way I have done it over the years. That, and when I started out, I used the Hillman "overjoiner" clamps that were available then. Sadly Hillman are now no more. Max
 
There are a number of post on the forum about this, the link below is a post of mine:

www.gscalecentral.net

Short Track Pieces

Yes, there are many such compounds, most are called "Anti-sieze" here, and have copper, nickel, or sometimes aluminum in them. I actually prefer the nickel to copper, but that is just splitting hairs. I have been using anti-sieze on things like this since 1969. Goes great on the end of a Mini...
www.gscalecentral.net www.gscalecentral.net
 
I use a bench vice.
its better vertical, but can also be used horizontally.
clamp the joiner, but not so tightly as a grab the rail.
the joiner, once clamped, Allows you to use a large screw driver, large nail punch, etc., and hammer against the rail end. Whack it as needed, the track will slide out of the joiner.

ive done this. I use safety glasses. I dont need to bend the joiner at all.
 
I spread the clamp open flat, grab with pliers and twist away and down while pulling, that helps disengage the tab that sticks through the tie without tearing the tie up.

I use clamps and don't try to save the old joiner.

There's many ways to do this. I have trouble understanding how some of these methods don't tear up the tie, but try a method and see how it works for you.

Greg
 
Tapping the rail out works but is much easier if you turn over the track and with a 1/4" sharp drill bit you drill out the dimple on the bottom of the joiner roiner and then tap out, Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom