Red flickering led run from 2 AA batteries

[KeithT]

Can anyone suggest where I might get a red flickeing LED?
I have just popped the one provided with a kit.
It is intended to simulate a firebox flicker and should not be overbright.
Inevitably, when I tried to solder the one which came with the kit I did my usual and wrecked it. :crying:
I am "good" with transistors too.
EDIT: It is intended for use in this Modeltown Steam Plant purchased at the last G Wizz Show

 

[steven large]

hi..so what about maplin?...ebay?..i used to have them on my ho layout yrs ago tht i got them from maplin shop....try tht?

 

[KeithT]

hi..so what about maplin?...ebay?..i used to have them on my ho layout yrs ago tht i got them from maplin shop....try tht?

Hi Steven
Maplin don't show any in their catalogue unfortunately.

 

[Nemo]

hi..so what about maplin?...ebay?..i used to have them on my ho layout yrs ago tht i got them from maplin shop....try tht?

Went to Maplins in Nottingham about a month ago, could'nt find anything suitable. Seen this on Dragons web site, thinking this might be good. Has anybody else used one. ??

http://www.dragon-gscale.co.uk/massoth-8242060-emotion-fire-box-light-module-3939-p.asp < Link To http://www.dragon-gscale....ight-module-3939-p.asp

 

[KeithT]

hi..so what about maplin?...ebay?..i used to have them on my ho layout yrs ago tht i got them from maplin shop....try tht?

Went to Maplins in Nottingham about a month ago, could'nt find anything suitable. Seen this on Dragons web site, thinking this might be good. Has anybody else used one. ??

http://www.dragon-gscale.co.uk/massoth-8242060-emotion-fire-box-light-module-3939-p.asp

I am sure that would do a fantastic job but it probably costs several times more than I paid for the kit!!
Just had a thought, a while ago I bought a simulated arc welding LED I wonder if I can find who does them?

 

[Nemo]

hi..so what about maplin?...ebay?..i used to have them on my ho layout yrs ago tht i got them from maplin shop....try tht?

Went to Maplins in Nottingham about a month ago, could'nt find anything suitable. Seen this on Dragons web site, thinking this might be good. Has anybody else used one. ??

http://www.dragon-gscale.co.uk/massoth-8242060-emotion-fire-box-light-module-3939-p.asp

I am sure that would do a fantastic job but it probably costs several times more than I paid for the kit!!
Just had a thought, a while ago I bought a simulated arc welding LED I wonder if I can find who does them?

Yes it might cost a bit more, but you don't need to solder it so have less chance of wrecking it. Don't use any doggy cheap batterys though Keith........

 

[KeithT]

hi..so what about maplin?...ebay?..i used to have them on my ho layout yrs ago tht i got them from maplin shop....try tht?

Went to Maplins in Nottingham about a month ago, could'nt find anything suitable. Seen this on Dragons web site, thinking this might be good. Has anybody else used one. ??

http://www.dragon-gscale.co.uk/massoth-8242060-emotion-fire-box-light-module-3939-p.asp

I am sure that would do a fantastic job but it probably costs several times more than I paid for the kit!!
Just had a thought, a while ago I bought a simulated arc welding LED I wonder if I can find who does them?

Yes it might cost a bit more, but you don't need to solder it so have less chance of wrecking it. Don't use any doggy cheap batterys though Keith........

V droll.....

 

[steven large]

i got idea...i will ask my bro in law coz he did gave me loads of battery connect clips for 9 volt battery on xmas day..coz i did use it for led blinking red led lite from 9 volts battery...thought maplin sell them?....strange?...mmm
so i will ask my bro in law about this coz he work for the firm doing electrical stuffs..and aslo mite ask dragon about it....

 

[ntpntpntp]

Flashing LED's with a regular cycle are easy to find - maplin etc. sell those, but something a bit more random might be more difficult to track down?

Are you sure the original LED was actually a random-flicker type as an inegrated component or was it a bog-standard one connected to a small circuit that actually does the flickering?

Have you noticed those cheap LED tea-lights that have appeared in the last few years? They have a pleasing flickering effect, and if you dismantle one it has a tiny chip that drives the flickering. I read somewhere that some of these designs actually use a chip that's supposed to play a tune, and if you connect a small speaker across the LED you can hear it!

 

[Neil Robinson]

Maplin's code UK30H may be O.K.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module?ModuleNo=2103&OrderCode=UK30H < Link To http://www.maplin.co.uk/M...03&OrderCode=UK30H
Minimum voltage quoted is 3.5V though, you may be O.K. with 2 Alkaline AAs but 1.2V rechargeables could be problematical.
I favour Steven's idea of using a 9V battery. The additional voltage would also permit the use of a blocking diode to prevent damage if the battery was accidentally connected with reverse polarity.

 

[steven large]

Maplin's code UK30H may be O.K.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module?ModuleNo=2103&OrderCode=UK30H
Minimum voltage quoted is 3.5V though, you may be O.K. with 2 Alkaline AAs but 1.2V rechargeables could be problematical.
I favour Steven's idea of using a 9V battery. The additional voltage would also permit the use of a blocking diode to prevent damage if the battery was accidentally connected with reverse polarity.

yes tht correct neil,,,i use 9 volt battery all the time...so sometime if use over 12 volts it mite blew the bulbs but can use small silver round one to put on it to stop the bulb blowin up....think it diode?......

 

[KeithT]

Thanks everyone, there is plenty for me to look at there.
I wondered about the candle lights, the ones I have seen 'in the flesh' looked too big for the space under the boiler but perhaps the unit itself under the cosmetic covering would be small enough.
Nick, yes it is/was a random flicker in an integrated unit.

 

[DoctorM]

I was going to suggest using pairs of red and orange LEDS and a couple of 555 timers running at different frequencies, but bannerman's suggestion seems to have the triple benefits of simplicity cheapness and speed of implementation.

Great idea!

 

[KeithT]

May I suggest the simplest and quickest and easiest solution ? Buy some red, yellow & orange, 3mm or 5mm, flashing LEDs (very cheap on Ebay).

Group and wire at least five in parallel (with individual resistors according to supply voltage and brightness required, typically 270 ohms for 12V DC supply).

(If the LEDs are rated at 3.5V, run direct from 2 AA batteries without resistors.)

This provides an excellent fire-like flickering effect, also useful for under camp-fires etc.

Hi Frank Welcome to GSC.
I like your solution very much, even I should be able to do that!
However, I have just had some "significant" attention to an eye so I won't be able to try it for at least several days - if I am lucky.

 

[Gizzy]

Can anyone suggest where I might get a red flickeing LED?
I have just popped the one provided with a kit.
It is intended to simulate a firebox flicker and should not be overbright.
Inevitably, when I tried to solder the one which came with the kit I did my usual and wrecked it. :crying:
I am "good" with transistors too.
EDIT: It is intended for use in this Modeltown Steam Plant purchased at the last G Wizz Show

Keith, I would have thought that the kit's circuitry provides the flickering, and the 'popped' LED a fairly standard type.

Maybe the manufacturer of the kit can tell you what LED is supplied with their product....

 

[KeithT]

Can anyone suggest where I might get a red flickeing LED?
I have just popped the one provided with a kit.
It is intended to simulate a firebox flicker and should not be overbright.
Inevitably, when I tried to solder the one which came with the kit I did my usual and wrecked it. :crying:
I am "good" with transistors too.
EDIT: It is intended for use in this Modeltown Steam Plant purchased at the last G Wizz Show

Keith, I would have thought that the kit's circuitry provides the flickering, and the 'popped' LED a fairly standard type.

Maybe the manufacturer of the kit can tell you what LED is supplied with their product....

Hi Gizzy
No there is no circuitry other than that in the LED - see photo in post 13. The LED connects directly to the battery box.
Can I just confirm something? Am I correct in assuming that the +ve tag to an LED is normally the longer one? That is what I assumed when I soldered it.

 

[Gizzy]

Can anyone suggest where I might get a red flickeing LED?
I have just popped the one provided with a kit.
It is intended to simulate a firebox flicker and should not be overbright.
Inevitably, when I tried to solder the one which came with the kit I did my usual and wrecked it. :crying:
I am "good" with transistors too.
EDIT: It is intended for use in this Modeltown Steam Plant purchased at the last G Wizz Show

Keith, I would have thought that the kit's circuitry provides the flickering, and the 'popped' LED a fairly standard type.

Maybe the manufacturer of the kit can tell you what LED is supplied with their product....

Hi Gizzy
No there is no circuitry other than that in the LED - see photo in post 13. The LED connects directly to the battery box.
Can I just confirm something? Am I correct in assuming that the +ve tag to an LED is normally the longer one? That is what I assumed when I soldered it.

The Cathode (-ve lead) is the one next to the 'flat spot' on the lens case mate....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode

 

[KeithT]

Can anyone suggest where I might get a red flickeing LED?
I have just popped the one provided with a kit.
It is intended to simulate a firebox flicker and should not be overbright.
Inevitably, when I tried to solder the one which came with the kit I did my usual and wrecked it. :crying:
I am "good" with transistors too.
EDIT: It is intended for use in this Modeltown Steam Plant purchased at the last G Wizz Show

Keith, I would have thought that the kit's circuitry provides the flickering, and the 'popped' LED a fairly standard type.

Maybe the manufacturer of the kit can tell you what LED is supplied with their product....

Hi Gizzy
No there is no circuitry other than that in the LED - see photo in post 13. The LED connects directly to the battery box.
Can I just confirm something? Am I correct in assuming that the +ve tag to an LED is normally the longer one? That is what I assumed when I soldered it.

The Cathode (-ve lead) is the one next to the 'flat spot' on the lens case mate....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode < Link To

Thanks for that. looking at the photo it appears that I have soldered it correctly. At the moment I can't double check the actual LED, this morning I had an injection in my eye (!) and close-up work is out of the question for a few days - at least!

 

[Gizzy]

Can anyone suggest where I might get a red flickeing LED?
I have just popped the one provided with a kit.
It is intended to simulate a firebox flicker and should not be overbright.
Inevitably, when I tried to solder the one which came with the kit I did my usual and wrecked it. :crying:
I am "good" with transistors too.
EDIT: It is intended for use in this Modeltown Steam Plant purchased at the last G Wizz Show

Keith, I would have thought that the kit's circuitry provides the flickering, and the 'popped' LED a fairly standard type.

Maybe the manufacturer of the kit can tell you what LED is supplied with their product....

Hi Gizzy
No there is no circuitry other than that in the LED - see photo in post 13. The LED connects directly to the battery box.
Can I just confirm something? Am I correct in assuming that the +ve tag to an LED is normally the longer one? That is what I assumed when I soldered it.

The Cathode (-ve lead) is the one next to the 'flat spot' on the lens case mate....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode < Link To

Thanks for that. looking at the photo it appears that I have soldered it correctly. At the moment I can't double check the actual LED, this morning I had an injection in my eye (!) and close-up work is out of the question for a few days - at least!

Looked at your photo in post 13.

I'm assuming that the red wire is positive, and the black negative.

If so the the LED is connected incorrectly as the flat side of is connected to the red wire!

If you turn it about, you may find it works as advertised?

Do you have a multimeter Keith?

If so I can tell you how to check your LED is ok....

 

[KeithT]

Can anyone suggest where I might get a red flickeing LED?
I have just popped the one provided with a kit.
It is intended to simulate a firebox flicker and should not be overbright.
Inevitably, when I tried to solder the one which came with the kit I did my usual and wrecked it. :crying:
I am "good" with transistors too.
EDIT: It is intended for use in this Modeltown Steam Plant purchased at the last G Wizz Show

Keith, I would have thought that the kit's circuitry provides the flickering, and the 'popped' LED a fairly standard type.

Maybe the manufacturer of the kit can tell you what LED is supplied with their product....

Hi Gizzy
No there is no circuitry other than that in the LED - see photo in post 13. The LED connects directly to the battery box.
Can I just confirm something? Am I correct in assuming that the +ve tag to an LED is normally the longer one? That is what I assumed when I soldered it.

The Cathode (-ve lead) is the one next to the 'flat spot' on the lens case mate....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode < Link To

Thanks for that. looking at the photo it appears that I have soldered it correctly. At the moment I can't double check the actual LED, this morning I had an injection in my eye (!) and close-up work is out of the question for a few days - at least!

Looked at your photo in post 13.

I'm assuming that the red wire is positive, and the black negative.

If so the the LED is connected incorrectly as the flat side of is connected to the red wire!

If you turn it about, you may find it works as advertised?

Do you have a multimeter Keith?

If so I can tell you how to check your LED is ok....

Oops! Yes I DO have it wrong!!
I have a multimeter.