Red Battery Loco Conversion using Fosworks and NiMh Batteries with My Loco Sound.

Greg Elmassian

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I vote for using brass castings, and plastic. Very few zinc-based castings last a long time (in large pieces, like sideframes and chassis)...

I have several friends that collect older trains, and "Zinc pest" is a problem.

Greg
 

Rhinochugger

Retired Oik
27 Oct 2009
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I vote for using brass castings, and plastic. Very few zinc-based castings last a long time (in large pieces, like sideframes and chassis)...

I have several friends that collect older trains, and "Zinc pest" is a problem.

Greg
Yes, over here, most kits (and they are much fewer nowadays due to the improved offerings from ready-to-run manufacturers) tended to be white metal, later pewter, superstructures and etched brass chassis. In the late '70s when I started kit building, there were a few loco kits that had a white metal chassis block with inserted brass bearings. There was no way that the average modeller could install the bearings accurately enough, so they were already fixed in the chassis, but they made for a very nice, smooth running loco if you took your time in adjusting the gear mesh - obviously in 4mm scale the drive was a simple worm arrangement.
 

dunnyrail

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So I just now took a couple of pics of my Red one, as you can see the wheels are not quite the same as Playmofire’s ones but certainly not the quality plated ones on the latest Piko offerings.

8189BE44-74E0-45D1-8013-100AD6B36A27.jpeg

Looking inside you can see the two bars that go up to contact the motor and are where the single plugs are attached to get wire to a circuit board (if present) The centre holes next to them are where the other two bars that do track contact go. These can be jumped together in pairs (track/motor track/motor) to do away with any failed internal board but still keeps things running. The flat bars, plungers and skates have all been removed for this battery conversion. Hope this helps a little. Other thing of note is the difference of gear colours, mine being grey and that is not the gunk contained in there! I have duplicated these words in my Red Loco Build to make things complete.

Other thing of note is the difference of gear colours, mine being grey and that is not the gunk contained in there!
9099ECC0-EB8D-4F0C-B80B-5EE23A49871A.jpeg
 
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ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
24 Oct 2009
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I've somehow missed seeing this thread. A mighty fine loco you have there, Jon. I can vouch for the Piko 0-6-0 motor block. One of my favourite locos uses one. Favoured because it's reliable, robust, powerful and highly controllable especially at low speeds - eg

Rik
 

dunnyrail

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I've somehow missed seeing this thread. A mighty fine loco you have there, Jon. I can vouch for the Piko 0-6-0 motor block. One of my favourite locos uses one. Favoured because it's reliable, robust, powerful and highly controllable especially at low speeds - eg

Rik
Praise indeed Rik many thanks. Mine exhibits similar prowess to your one. Looking at your conversion of the Piko chassis I must think about Cylinders. Love the Robin.
 

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
24 Oct 2009
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For some reason best known to itself, this thread popped up just now. How did the loco get on? Did you finish off the fittong-out?

Rik
 

dunnyrail

DOGS, Garden Railways, Steam Trains, Jive Dancing,
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For some reason best known to itself, this thread popped up just now. How did the loco get on? Did you finish off the fittong-out?

Rik
Probably to remind me that I need to do more work to it still! It is turning out to be a very useful engine having visited lines in Somerset and nearby. So must get on with it, but weather too fine to spend much time in workshop just now. Thanks for your interest Rik.