Ready, steady, go?

M

Monifieth Stuart

Registered
Country flag
I have tried to follow earlier advice and have gathered LGB track, Massoth rail connectors and Molyslip Copaslip grease in preparation for assembling my first layout. It is basically a 15' by 12' rectangle built mainly on level sleepers so nothing complicated at this stage. Diesel loco with a few wagons run on analogue controls. So just checking before I start.
1. Do I replace ordinary rail connectors and screw on Massoth connectors at this stage?
2. What do I do with grease?
I am looking forward to seeing something working outside in the garden sometime soon. Stuart

​

 
Two options:

Either take of the standard fishplates and use the rail connectors, or retain the fishplates and use a little copaslip grease in each of the fishplates as you make the rail connection.

There are a few people who recommend using the grease with rail clamps but it is unnecessary.
 
If your track is not brand new, then some time spent with pliers tweaking any bent joiners will pay dividends..

Stand the ends of the track in cheap coke / vinegar overnight, then rinse well..

Use a little o the grease. - About 'half a pea' is enough.

PhilP
 
I use the grease with rail connectors, it help prevent corrosion, so when it come apart it is easier :)
 
i am playing for 51 years now with LGB. put down and taken up over a dozen "permanent" and temporary layouts.

fishplates are good enough in general. outdoors a ricecorn's worth of grease is helpfull.
now and then a fishplate has to be "reshaped" with pliers after taking up track.

having said that, i am now waiting for delivery of some Massoth connectors.
they are for connecting the switches/points with the rest of the track.
time told me, that they are the only parts, that have to be taken out now and then.
 
I would also recommend starting right off the bat with the Massoth joiners. Especially if your track will be free-floating. The Massoth connectors will keep all your joints together mechanically.
 
What has not been mentioned is how to remove LGB rail joiners or fishplates if you will. I have seen many methods, some quite destructive. But this is the best one I have come across and I have used it extensively on my recent loft railway build. It has been posted before but finding it.... Oh probably on my build but best linked agin here. So marvellously simple and the fishplates are pristine to flog on eBay if you wish to.

 
This is the way I do it [my vice isn’t quite as noisy] but you have to be always very careful with points plus when you remove the blighters from R5 curves there are the connectors that are factory installed half way along the track which sometimes need a bit of TLC to put them back from whence they came.
cheers
Monty
 
Last edited:
Monty said:
This is the way I do it [my vice isn’t quite as noisy] but you have to be always very careful with points plus when you remove the blighters from R5 curves there are the connectors that are factory installed half way along the track which sometimes need a bit of TLC to put them back from whence they came.
cheers
Monty
Click to expand...
So I need a wee bit spare rail to get started. I notice that when he pulled off the joiner, the rail slipped along the sleepers. Does it slide back easily?
 
dunnyrail said:
What has not been mentioned is how to remove LGB rail joiners or fishplates if you will. I have seen many methods, some quite destructive. But this is the best one I have come across and I have used it extensively on my recent loft railway build. It has been posted before but finding it.... Oh probably on my build but best linked agin here. So marvellously simple and the fishplates are pristine to flog on eBay if you wish to.

Click to expand...
An excellent way to remove LGB joiners, though I do not believe it works on points.
 
It does slide back fairly easily, yes..

If you don't have an odd bit of rail...
You can use another piece of track, and grip vertically in the vice. - To avoid the sleepers / ties.

PhilP
 
Monifieth Stuart said:
So I need a wee bit spare rail to get started. I notice that when he pulled off the joiner, the rail slipped along the sleepers. Does it slide back easily?
Click to expand...
Slides back easy peasy. And yes you do need a short bit of rail, but a cut piece of ally that would fit where the webb is would do nicely if you do not have any odd bits. Most of us probably have dozens of bits that would do. Oh you could use a second piece of track coupled just be a little on the cumbersome side to use.
JimmyB said:
An excellent way to remove LGB joiners, though I do not believe it works on points.
Click to expand...
Yes it did for me. The complete point needs to be able to move away from the vices bit of rail. Bit trickier but dooable.
 
Last edited:
I'd like to see a closeup of the tie with the slot (where the downwards pointing tab of the joiner sits)

maybe that action bends the tab up nicely and comes out of the tie without damage, but I'm a bit skeptical.

I open the joiner to make it flat, and then pulling the joiner out does not damage the tie, nor move the rails.

Not saying the video does not look simple, just don't like moving the rail, and want to make sure the tie is undamaged.

Greg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom