Pola building cement alternatives

funandtrains

funandtrains

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Are there any glues more easy to obtain which work as well as the proper Pola cement? I was wondering if UHU was similar?
 
Uhu - it is the Pola cement.
 
Rhinochugger said:
Yebbut, you can get other UHU glues
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As it says in the link (or should) . Over here where UHU is produced there are lots of different sorts for particular uses, in my desk drawer by my left knee there are six different versions going from instant 'superglue' to 2-pack 'epoxy'. The hardest job is getting the damned caps off after their first use!
 
I use Testors or Model Master glue on both Pola and Piko building also use Tamiya extra thin cement which is pretty much the same as the first 2 but it will wick into small places. You can hold the two dry pieces together and use the internal brush supplied with the glue and put a drop or 2 where you want and it disappears into the crack. These glues actually melt the plastics together, but the only disadvantage is the parts being glued have to be secured and held in place until the glue dries usually in about and hour, Bill
 
Any solvent based "adhesive" suitable for use with styrene should do. From the thick goopy stuff, good old polystyrene cement, to those that run like water and are applied with a brush, "Plastic Weld" etc'. The important thing with Piko & Pola kits is to remove the all over "weathered look" paint wash from all the parts in areas where glue is to be applied and the surfaces mate. Otherwise nothing will bond the bits together properly. Max
 
I have just completed a small Piko building with Revell Contacta glue. Seems to be the same as the Piko Fix glue, which is the one they recommend for buildings that will be going outside.
 
I agree with Maxi-Model - Any solvent weld styrene glue will work. I'm currently using Testors "Cement for Plastic Models" where the joints are not visible such as the backside of wall sections. Once that has partially set I fill the front of the joint with Faller "Expert" liquid solvent using capillary action and gently press the joint together. The softened styrene completely fills the joint making it almost disappear. Needless to say I test fit everything before glueing and use the Testors very sparingly on visible joints. I use this technique when glueing together base plates too. When glueing together roof sections I add a couple of internal "joists" fashioned from pieces of sprue. Once the solvent cement has cured I reinforce the inside of the joint with two-part epoxy glue.

Here are some pics illustrating the above.
WallJoints.jpg

BasePlates.jpg

roof.jpg

Phil S.
 
Thanks for the help - I thought it looked like UHU! Available in big tubes from the £ shop rather than the sky high Pola price!

I'm having repair and adapt used buildings for my new line as there is not much cash left after buying the track.
 
funandtrains said:
Thanks for the help - I thought it looked like UHU! Available in big tubes from the £ shop rather than the sky high Pola price!
The pictured building was in 10 pieces after the hurricane of 2004 got done with it , not including the roof and I but it all back together with model masters cement. Also had a pola Wells Fargo bank building that was pretty much the same way, made 4 different buildings out of the one. I'll send pictures if you want, Bill
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Thanks, I'm also thinking about how to make the German buildings look more American as the American buildings are harder to find.
 
funandtrains said:
Thanks, I'm also thinking about how to make the German buildings look more American as the American buildings are harder to find.
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Well that might be a little more work, I would start with finding another material for roofs other than tile, like corrugated tin roofs, you an use aluminum soda cans crinkled, with paper crimper, or ribbed rug runner. I've also used Kydex plastic which is a heat resistant plastic sheet with 1 side smooth and the other sort pebbly. Don't know if it comes in white but if so even better. Mine was black so I painted it white and let it dry good then painted it black with a light coat. After drying I sanded it with a LGB track sanding block, taking just enough of the black off to expose the white giving it the look of a gravel roof. So you see if you could find it in white it would do away with 1 spray. Shutters on windows sort of gives it that European look along with flower boxes. Noticed when 2 story are done usually in wood the bottoms have a cutesy sculpture look all these add to the European look along with the addition of boards on the surface like a English chateau look. Also used non slip tape like used in boats as roll roofing. the picture enclosed shows the tin and the Kydex. Just remember if you have your layout on the ground most of what people see id on the top. Have a gas station (one of the 4 buildings) that I have a tin roof and it has 5 sections 4 that are very rusty and one that looks new, and I get a lot of ? of why I didn't paint the new looking one to match, and I reply it was maintenance as the old one had rusted out and was replaced, lots of chuckles, Good luck and let me know how you are coming and post pictures, if you have a ? just ask, Bill
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