Plymouth Project

Hal Farsed

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Plymouth 001


Now then, heres a little project I "finished" a while ago. Its an Accucraft Plymouth I bought a few years back. The (UK) vendor seemed extremely pleased to get rid of it because it is not a British loco. But, as I do like a little bit of American, it came home with me. It has sat waiting patiently for me to do something with it and last Summer, it was its turn for some treatment.

As I am "on the batteries" some of my stock has solid axles, this obviously precludes the Plymouths use via a rail bourne supply. I dismantled it to reveal a Pitman motor the size of a small wardrobe under the bonnet. This motor requires at least 12 volts to give it any sort of performance. I tried, but was unable to fit a useful battery under the bonnet (I did consider opaquing the windows and stuffing the batteries in the cab, but thought it would look a bit naff.), so I had to use a battery car (This is one of my first purchases in G/F scale, a Bachmann bobber caboose, that I fitted a pair of those bogies that are off one of those short box cars that they used to make, you know, with the moulded in ladders.). I use NiMh batteries as I have not yet plucked up the courage to use LiPo, but this might be a modification later. I dont like battery cars, so we will see.

The Bluetooth (Oh Yes. Very 21st cen!) Radio Control is from a company called Monocasy Trains. I chose this system because it is valid up to 20 volts and, as I have installed 14.4v in the battery car and didnt want to risk a Deltang going bang on me. It was also cheap off Flea Bay. The R/C unit is in the locomotive not the battery car. This is so I can take advantage of the various different lighting arrangements within the Monocasy. I have little idea about American lighting configurations, the loco was rewired to the R/C board as per the instructions. The flick shows both ends flashing, ideal for a shunting yard! The sound comes from the phone, but its the wrong sound, it sounds like some 1950s EMD job, but again, I am not sure and frankly, I dont care, it all looks OK to me.

To SWMBOs slight annoyance however, it will not work on my vintage "smart" phone because the Software on the phone is too old. It does work on hers though. And her tablet. Since taking the film (which I note Yochube has destroyed, quality wise), I have painted the cab roof black in an attempt to calm the yellow down a bit. So thats it really. If anyone has an idea of how to get 12v+ in to one of these I would love to hear from you.
 

Zerogee

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Plymouth 001


Now then, heres a little project I "finished" a while ago. Its an Accucraft Plymouth I bought a few years back. The (UK) vendor seemed extremely pleased to get rid of it because it is not a British loco. But, as I do like a little bit of American, it came home with me. It has sat waiting patiently for me to do something with it and last Summer, it was its turn for some treatment.

As I am "on the batteries" some of my stock has solid axles, this obviously precludes the Plymouths use via a rail bourne supply. I dismantled it to reveal a Pitman motor the size of a small wardrobe under the bonnet. This motor requires at least 12 volts to give it any sort of performance. I tried, but was unable to fit a useful battery under the bonnet (I did consider opaquing the windows and stuffing the batteries in the cab, but thought it would look a bit naff.), so I had to use a battery car (This is one of my first purchases in G/F scale, a Bachmann bobber caboose, that I fitted a pair of those bogies that are off one of those short box cars that they used to make, you know, with the moulded in ladders.). I use NiMh batteries as I have not yet plucked up the courage to use LiPo, but this might be a modification later. I dont like battery cars, so we will see.

......... If anyone has an idea of how to get 12v+ in to one of these I would love to hear from you.

For what it's worth (which is exactly what you paid for it) my best suggestion would be to take the jump to Li-Ion, but with a proper industrial pack like this, with full built-in protection circuitry:


With 14.5 volts and 3.5 Ah capacity, you should have all the voltage and run time you would want.
Not cheap, but a lot more peace of mind than a cut-price Chinese Li-Po pack. It's a flat 4-cell pack, only 70 x 74mm, that should sit low on the cab floor of the loco, maybe with a false floor and cut-down driver on top to disguise it even more.
Of course, that's assuming that the cab isn't already full of controls and details, or if it is then you'd be willing to remove some of it to make space....?

I've used a similar pack (with only 2.6 Ah capacity) for a 2-motor LGB Sachsen IVk, and it runs for hours - I've never run it flat in a single operating session.

Very nice loco, by the way, and love the lighting effects!

Jon.
 

Rhinochugger

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It's a beautiful little loco, but Accucraft do tend to use the Pittman motors with gear head which makes them both large, and thirsty for volts.

It was the Plymouth that provided the inspiration for my enlargement of the MDC Critter - but by using a replacement chassis (Essel special) I was able to get a 9.6v pack of 4/5 Ars under the bonnet - the batteries are 4/5th the length of an AA. None of which will help with a bonnet full of motor that needs at least 12v to get off its backside :emo::emo:

But here's the Critter for comparison - some have unkindly compared it with a hovercraft - it doesn't have the Christmas tree light effects though.



PICT0003.JPG
 
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PhilP

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Have you seen how much 'Critter-based' models are going for on evilBay lately? :eek:

(Actually, was the model the MDC Hustler? - Or did I dream that??)

PhilP.
 
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JimmyB

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For what it's worth (which is exactly what you paid for it) my best suggestion would be to take the jump to Li-Ion, but with a proper industrial pack like this, with full built-in protection circuitry:


With 14.5 volts and 3.5 Ah capacity, you should have all the voltage and run time you would want.
Not cheap, but a lot more peace of mind than a cut-price Chinese Li-Po pack. It's a flat 4-cell pack, only 70 x 74mm, that should sit low on the cab floor of the loco, maybe with a false floor and cut-down driver on top to disguise it even more.
Of course, that's assuming that the cab isn't already full of controls and details, or if it is then you'd be willing to remove some of it to make space....?

I've used a similar pack (with only 2.6 Ah capacity) for a 2-motor LGB Sachsen IVk, and it runs for hours - I've never run it flat in a single operating session.

Very nice loco, by the way, and love the lighting effects!

Jon.
Phil, looking at the battery, I assume you will not require a balanced charger i.e. 5 pin JST-XH
 

Rhinochugger

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Have you seen how much 'Critter-based' models are going for on evilBay lately? :eek:

(Actually, was the model the MDC Hustler? - Or did I dream that??)

PhilP.
Yeah - MDC Hustler :nod::nod:
 

Zerogee

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Phil, looking at the battery, I assume you will not require a balanced charger i.e. 5 pin JST-XH


If you mean the Ansmann pack that I recommended, Jimmy, you need to buy a matching charger for the number of cells you're using, but that will then do for various capacity packs as long as they are all (for example) 4-cell ones. You don't need one of the super-sophisticated balance chargers, because the protection circuitry is in the battery pack, not the charger.

Jon (not Phil...) ;)
 

JimmyB

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If you mean the Ansmann pack that I recommended, Jimmy, you need to buy a matching charger for the number of cells you're using, but that will then do for various capacity packs as long as they are all (for example) 4-cell ones. You don't need one of the super-sophisticated balance chargers, because the protection circuitry is in the battery pack, not the charger.

Jon (not Phil...) ;)
Jon, sorry, not the first time, definitely an age thing, I have a "sophisticated balanced charger that has connections from 2 - 6 cells (LiPo), which will also charge NiMh, Pb, etc I assume this would work.
 

Zerogee

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Jon, sorry, not the first time, definitely an age thing, I have a "sophisticated balanced charger that has connections from 2 - 6 cells (LiPo), which will also charge NiMh, Pb, etc I assume this would work.

Hehe, no problem Jimmy! ;)
Yes, I can't see any reason why your existing charger wouldn't work just fine (unless anyone else here knows differently of course?) - my point was just that you don't NEED something that advanced, as the pack is internally protected already; if you've already got it, you may as well use it!
Knowing that I would be using 4-cell packs (and doubled-up 8-cell ones with two parallel banks of 4 - "4S2P" packs) to give me the 14.5 volts I needed for my battery-DCC projects, I just bought a relatively basic Ansmann charger from the same supplier (Rapid) as my batteries, which deals with both the 4S1P 4-cell and 4S2P 8-cell packs that I'm using.

Jon.
 

PhilP

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Jon, sorry, not the first time, definitely an age thing, I have a "sophisticated balanced charger that has connections from 2 - 6 cells (LiPo), which will also charge NiMh, Pb, etc I assume this would work.

As Jon say's:
Protection, balancing, and even a 6Amp PTC fuse, is within the pack..
You can use your Lipo charger if it allows you to 'overall-charge' a pack, as well as balance-charge.

Whatever you use, it MUST be designed for use with Lithium-based batteries.

(Last sentence for general readers, and not you, Jimmy).
 

Zerogee

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As Jon say's:
Protection, balancing, and even a 6Amp PTC fuse, is within the pack..
You can use your Lipo charger if it allows you to 'overall-charge' a pack, as well as balance-charge.

Whatever you use, it MUST be designed for use with Lithium-based batteries.

(Last sentence for general readers, and not you, Jimmy).

Exactly, Phil. I recommend these packs whenever I'm asked about li-ion batteries because I reckon they are about as safe as anything in this field can be. They are not cheap by any means, but they are designed for heavy duty industrial use (eg: in power tools) and personally I think they are worth the money. Paired with an appropriate charger, I'm sufficiently confident about them to have them permanently installed in a couple of quite expensive LGB locos, charged in situ via a flying lead.
I would NEVER consider doing that with an unprotected Li-Po battery pack designed for R/C flight use, where every possible microgramme of weight has been shaved off it....

Jon.
 

Hal Farsed

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For what it's worth (which is exactly what you paid for it) my best suggestion would be to take the jump to Li-Ion, but with a proper industrial pack like this, with full built-in protection circuitry:
<snip>

</snipperty snip>
Very nice loco, by the way, and love the lighting effects!

Jon.

Thanks for this Zerogee. Your right, it is pricey, but, if I hide it from SWMBO, a possibility. (If I get caught, I can say I have not been into a pub for six months!). SO then, my next daft question: How do I charge it? With a NiMh smart charger?
 

PhilP

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Thanks for this Zerogee. Your right, it is pricey, but, if I hide it from SWMBO, a possibility. (If I get caught, I can say I have not been into a pub for six months!). SO then, my next daft question: How do I charge it? With a NiMh smart charger?

NEVER!!!!!!!!!! Charge Lithium batteries with anything other than a charger designed for them.

If you were to buy the pack above, then buy the matching charger at the same time. Simples. :)

Mark the loco, with the battery-type, and charging information. - That way, you know what is in it, and how to treat it..

PhilP.
 

Rhinochugger

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It's such a handsome looking loco, it's worth pursuing the Li-po route :clap::clap::clap:
 

Zerogee

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Thanks for this Zerogee. Your right, it is pricey, but, if I hide it from SWMBO, a possibility. (If I get caught, I can say I have not been into a pub for six months!). SO then, my next daft question: How do I charge it? With a NiMh smart charger?

As Phil has already said, definitely not - you need a charger that is designed for the li-ion cells. If you're going for a 4-cell pack (or an 8-cell with two parallel banks of 4) then you need one specified as a 4-cell Li-Ion charger; mine came from Rapid, but they don't seem to list them at the moment - but I found this equivalent at CPC Farnell:


Please do double-check everything for suitability before actually buying anything - my advice is offered with the best intentions, but no warranties, and is worth exactly what you paid for it...! :D

Jon.
 

Hal Farsed

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No Its Ok, I was reeling at the prices :D Thanks all for your advice and info!