Playmobil Diesel converted to DCC

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This only really started out as an "Hmm, maybe it could be done"

The Playmobil Diesel was already earmarked for taking apart for a respray, and as it was in pieces, seemed an ideal opportunity to tinker and have a play with the Tam Valley Depot DRS system, which works very well and relatively simple and straightforward to install.

Bulk of the work involved taking the Playmobil Diesel apart, removing the RC equipment, dismantling the chassis, removing the capacitors from the two motors and re wiring and rerouting the new cables for the Receiver Unit and the Massoth M Decoder.

Experiments continue on the lowest voltage that can be used, 9 volts seems to be the lowest value for every thing to operate and function correctly, whilst the existing battery holder will accommodate six AA cells, six rechargeables can only supply 7.2 volts which is an insufficient power requirement, trying to avoid using conventional batteries.

Had hoped to use the existing battery holder, there are spaces under the bonnets and the cab, will probably have to make up the battery packs to fit into these areas.

For Bench Testing and tinkering, hooked up to DC to DC step down converter set at 9 volts.

Surprisingly the Playmobil chassis with it's dual can motors runs rather well using a Massoth M decoder.

Will keep me occupied and out of mischief and perhaps inspire someone else to have a go........

Chassis.png

Decoder & Receiver.png

Transmitter.png

Overview.png
 

Hi Jon, nice to see you are having a crack at the DRS, certainly adds another string to the bow, as far as operating goes.

Thanks for the link to battery pack most useful, as mentioned really is a suck it see approach to one of those madcap ideas that appear from the far flung reaches of my imagination.

Having been a dyed in the wool track powered DCC afficidao since about 1980, this malarky with batteries is an alien concept!

Plus being the eternal cheapskate trying to reuse what's already about in various boxes, plus a case of finding somewhere to fit them that is accessible for removal, recharging...

BUT, I can see the advantages of combining the the two, especially as we have a "hands on" approach when we are out and about displaying and exhibiting, anyways I blame Exeter Geek!!!!!!!

Still have a few options to tinker with, had a rummage and found an old but serviceable LGB 55021 Decoder, may have a lower power usage than a Massoth M, which basically requires 2 volts just to "keep alive".

Another option is to change the can motors, no markings on the ones fitted, may well be 6 volts types, do have some 3 volt ones knocking around somewhere.
 
I'm using one of the much bigger Ansmann packs (a 4S2P 14.8v 5.2Ah) in the 2095 that I'm using as my rolling testbed for the DRS gear.... the nice thing about them is that they are proper industrial-quality packs, not Chinese Cheapies, and they have a built-in protection board - which I feel makes them safe and reliable enough to semi-permanently install and charge in-situ in the loco, which is what I'm going to be doing - I don't want to have to dismantle the loco every time I have to recharge the pack....
As discussed in my other current (pun intended!) thread about lighting voltages, my mission goal is to end up with a loco that is completely switchable between track power DC, track power DCC and dead-rail Battery power via an S-cab handset - thus being effectively a "take-anywhere-and-run-it" unit while retaining all the range of DCC functions.

Jon.
 
Had a tad of a tinker, more progress and insight.

Made an adapter cable to enable swapping between an LGB motor block and the Playmobil motor block easier.

Changed the colour code from Yellow on the DRS to Brown, avoids any confusion in the future, in keeping with standard LGB colour coding.

Spent a while adjusting CV's on the M decoder, has made a huge difference to the running of the Playmobil Diesel, the Massoth decoder is performing well considering it's well outside its comfort zone.

Bit of a test run with six Alkaline batteries, runs well, much better than it did when it was hooked up to a DC power unit

Under it's own power on the video....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6_2wAO6JzxFYXdoNWVxZkd2UEE/view?usp=sharing
 
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