PECO code 250 to code 200 rail transition

Harry W

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I’m planning on converting a few sections of my railway to 32/45mm dual gauge. My plan is to use PECO code 250 track for the dual gauge sections and PECO code 200 track for the 32mm. Does anyone manufacture rail clamps that transition from code 250 to code 200 PECO rail. Or is a DIY transition the only option for this?

thanks,
Harry
 
I’m planning on converting a few sections of my railway to 32/45mm dual gauge. My plan is to use PECO code 250 track for the dual gauge sections and PECO code 200 track for the 32mm. Does anyone manufacture rail clamps that transition from code 250 to code 200 PECO rail. Or is a DIY transition the only option for this?

thanks,
Harry
Peco do converters, 20210403_164923.jpg
 
I don't know of a source, but I used to connect code 215 to code 250 by cutting in to the web of the 250 about 1/4" or so, and squeezing the end of the 250 so it was nearer to the code 215.
 
I’m planning on converting a few sections of my railway to 32/45mm dual gauge. My plan is to use PECO code 250 track for the dual gauge sections and PECO code 200 track for the 32mm. Does anyone manufacture rail clamps that transition from code 250 to code 200 PECO rail. Or is a DIY transition the only option for this?

thanks,
Harry
Had to make some in the past for a friend that went from LGB to Code 200, Silver Soldering short 2-3 inch lengths is about the best option. But for him there was a step up on sleeper hight. Yours will have one too but not so much.
Only for LGB to Peco G Paul, request was for something quite different.
 
Had to make some in the past for a friend that went from LGB to Code 200, Silver Soldering short 2-3 inch lengths is about the best option. But for him there was a step up on sleeper hight. Yours will have one too but not so much.

Only for LGB to Peco G Paul, request was for something quite different.
Sorry
 
Thanks for the suggestions I guess I’ll have to get a few bits of track and do some tests. I would use code 250 rail for the 32mm only sections but it seems to be a much more expensive route
 
Have a look at Cliff Barker's stuff. He does fish plates that fit his code 200 and 180 rail and if the foot of the rail is not too high, they should fit code 250 as well. You might then just need to do some filing down of the rail to get a good rail head transition. He does brass ones, so they should take solder quite well to keep everything together.

 
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