luckerly i installed mine correctly, so i dont have any problems, just awaiting the snow to melt away..
Outside electrics in Winter
- Thread starter mike
- Start date
I only have 3 isolating switches outside, carefully sheltered under the water tower - everything else is manual 
Mind you, sometimes that can be hard work
I was looking at the timetable thread - my timetable's just as simple, when the glass of Pimms runs out, it's time to change the points and run the other train
Mind you, sometimes that can be hard work
I was looking at the timetable thread - my timetable's just as simple, when the glass of Pimms runs out, it's time to change the points and run the other train
My modules are all hidden in bird boxes. Although the boxes have become pretty damp with several inches of snow on their roofs, everything was working just fine on Monday.55.5 said:
I have only one electrical connection which goes directly from the Train Engineer Rx, which is indoors, to the track and has a small trackside junction box and luckily does not have weather issues. Bird boxes have the disadvantage that birds like to set up home in them - they do here anyway.
Murphys' Law suggests that access to the electronics/contacts whatever would be required just as a brood has hatched. Family attitudes would insist that the newly hatched birds would have priority of trains/garden toys.
Murphys' Law suggests that access to the electronics/contacts whatever would be required just as a brood has hatched. Family attitudes would insist that the newly hatched birds would have priority of trains/garden toys.
I use Air for my points and with minor exceptions they have all worked fine in the cold snap. Minor irritations have been:-
1 One of the points (I use Peco that have been converted to Live Frog with Micro Switches) appeared to be shorting out, on investigation the Micro Switch had frozen up.
2 One of my panels (outside) would not work at all. I have noticed in the past that this panels Tubes have been prone to emitting water when releasing the points. I imagine that this had frozen up. The switches were also Frozen Stiff. A kettle of warm water soon resolved this problem. I noticed the problem and fixed it on Monday, it was still fixed today when I was running trains.
I do have Electric Points on my line, but they are all in my Wooden Shed so have no problems.
JonD
1 One of the points (I use Peco that have been converted to Live Frog with Micro Switches) appeared to be shorting out, on investigation the Micro Switch had frozen up.
2 One of my panels (outside) would not work at all. I have noticed in the past that this panels Tubes have been prone to emitting water when releasing the points. I imagine that this had frozen up. The switches were also Frozen Stiff. A kettle of warm water soon resolved this problem. I noticed the problem and fixed it on Monday, it was still fixed today when I was running trains.
I do have Electric Points on my line, but they are all in my Wooden Shed so have no problems.
JonD
The Devonian said:(snip)
Bird boxes have the disadvantage that birds like to set up home in them - they do here anyway.
(snip)
Not if you spend a minute filling the entry hole with silicone sealant! Spiders do get access, but not, so far, with any deleterious effects.
I adopted the policy of keeping all of my electrical things, except wires, indoors. Electrical things such as reversers, compressed air switches, DCC system, occupancy detectors, feedback, computer etc are all either in my shed, or in the back of the garage.
If track power is being carried over a comparatively long distance then it does mean that a heavier gauge of wire has to be used, which can be expensive.
I keep all of my locos in my house. Paul and others say that decoders can be affected by condensation, I'm not convinced about this actually.
So far I've not had a problem. Of course condensation could still be a problem to electrical items in the cold of a shed or the back of a garage. I haven't noticed much of it which I put down to the shed being lined and bricks being a better insulator.
If track power is being carried over a comparatively long distance then it does mean that a heavier gauge of wire has to be used, which can be expensive.
I keep all of my locos in my house. Paul and others say that decoders can be affected by condensation, I'm not convinced about this actually.
So far I've not had a problem. Of course condensation could still be a problem to electrical items in the cold of a shed or the back of a garage. I haven't noticed much of it which I put down to the shed being lined and bricks being a better insulator.
Cliff George said:
Agree that this is the simplest way - all my control kit is in the conservatory with (mains gauge) cables to two feed points plugged in as required. The ability to run through LGB points in the trailing direction simplifies things considerably for passing loops for example, as long as the blades return to the 'normal' position after the train has passed!
There was a thread on GSM this time last year about people suffering failures with MTS Central Stations where they were located in sheds (I was one of them). Whilst it provided the incentive to upgrade to the Massoth system, it did show me that electrical kit does not like extremes of temperature or dampness.
It's all a bit academic at the moment as there is still two inches of snow across the track........
M
Finally managed to get outside today, spend 10 minutes or so with the LGB track rubber and get the first train going for 2010 just before it got too dark. Point motors and point decoders (NCE SwitchKats in sealed project boxes) stayed out in the snow, all the other DCC gear stays indoors. Generally seems fine, although one point to a siding didn't fire but I've yet to investigate the cause.
Most interesting thing for me was the state of the track after getting on for a couple of months out of use: The LGB brass was far more tarnished and required more elbow-grease than the Accucraft AMS flexi-track which just needed a light rub-over. No sign of any bad rail joints that would cause voltage drops.
Most interesting thing for me was the state of the track after getting on for a couple of months out of use: The LGB brass was far more tarnished and required more elbow-grease than the Accucraft AMS flexi-track which just needed a light rub-over. No sign of any bad rail joints that would cause voltage drops.
My track did not require too much cleaning outside either, in fact before cleaning the only section that had any sticking problems (with my Harz 2-10-2) was under some bushes. No doubt effected by the Gunge that they may secrete at times. I use predominantly Peco which is of course Nickel Silver. I did not however notice much more elbow grease being required on the LGB R2 curves that I use.
JonD
JonD
Well I left everything out inadvertently (barring the transformer and MTS). Because it was so wet here in the Dales I had lifted everything. cleaned and put light oil inside the point motors, then put it all back. When I turned round lo and behold it was all covered in snow. Have just this am, got outside with a view to running again tomorrow. Inspected track, points(switches) and they are fine. Just a touch of condensation in switches. Am really pleased after they have been buried under the snow for nigh on 6 weeks. I suspect that may be better than being rained upon day after day,
I just gave my electrics a go after clearing all the bits of grit and other debris from the point blades. I was a bit concerned because I usually put a dab of clear silicone in the screwholes of the point motors each autumn but I forgot to this year. I need not have worried, everything worked fine.
I try not to be too bothered about the possible effect of bad weather because my most complex bit of electrical kit, the Lotuslok digital turntable, has to stay out in all weathers because it cannot be moved.
I try not to be too bothered about the possible effect of bad weather because my most complex bit of electrical kit, the Lotuslok digital turntable, has to stay out in all weathers because it cannot be moved.
Well, I ran track power yesterday. The odd slightly dicky joint to start with, but was OK running after the first run or two.
I may have to get some rail clamps. I didn't use jointing paste at all when the track (mainly Aristo) was laid. the only areas that get a bit touchy during the winter, are where I've had to cut a length of track, and I haven't drilled for new fishplate bolts, as I don't have a tap and die, and there's only a few on the whole cricuit.
Half a dozen rail clamps should see me bomb-proof - when I get a round tuit (Oh, and a job )
I may have to get some rail clamps. I didn't use jointing paste at all when the track (mainly Aristo) was laid. the only areas that get a bit touchy during the winter, are where I've had to cut a length of track, and I haven't drilled for new fishplate bolts, as I don't have a tap and die, and there's only a few on the whole cricuit.
Half a dozen rail clamps should see me bomb-proof - when I get a round tuit (Oh, and a job
)ntpntpntp said:
Pleasant weather this afternoon, so today's investigation revealed a bit of damp still on the DCC point decoder components inside the project box. Clearly the seal on the box for this particular bit of kit wasn't quite perfect. Removed it and left it to dry on the window sill for the afternoon, then cleaned with a toothbrush and retested. Now working fine. It'll go back out again shortly, though before that I'm going to order some potting compound from Maplin as soon as the next set of discount vouchers arrive (need some other bits and pieces too). All the point decoders will then get permanently encased in their boxes for maximum damp-proofing.
Also managed to remove and upgrade another LGB R5 point with a live frog today, as per my other recent thread. Instant improvement when running my Maerkiln Maxi loco over it!
FYI, you will find that the innards of the Massoth & LGB point decoders are filled with potting compound to protect the electronics. The only bits that are exposed are the terminals. Hence they are "weather resistant" and not "weather proof".ntpntpntp said:
ntpntpntp said:
In the end I decided to go for RTV Silicone rather than just potting compound, as it was on offer and it'll be useful for other sealing purposes too.
From left to right: 1) an NCE SwitchKat point decoder I've been testing after replacing a blown diode (my fault!) and with its programming link wire still temporarily fitted to the top terminal block; 2) a SwitchKat now seated on the "lid" of the little project box I use for these decoders and coated with the silicone except for the terminals; 3) the project box, with a cut-out to access the main terminal block. I'll seal over this cut-out once the decoder is re-connected to the point.
After cleaning the railhead of the main line today, I've had my first run of 2010 today, using an LGB 1A controller, as the batteries in my TE had discharged during the winter's cold weather.
Tomorrow, I'll be running on 10A of juice from the TE PSU and I'll sort out the point motors too....
Tomorrow, I'll be running on 10A of juice from the TE PSU and I'll sort out the point motors too....
I'am interested in the mains cable part.
I have a returning loop about 150 feet long (50 meteres ish) and suffer from a voltage drop at the far end. i use burgular alarm cable as when I used 2.5mm main cable the power didn't get through. One exstream to another.
I'am presuming that my voltage drop is the length of the run of track can anyone suggest a cable gauge that would be a good conductor for me. As I will be adding a branch line down the other side of the garden about 150 feet back to the cabin. I use a 10amp Elite power supply.
I have other intermediate feeds in but now i've tested it with a volt meter rather than "it seems to be slower" it drops 20% about 90 feet away and 40% at the 150 feet.
any suggestoins? I have tightened all the fish plates prior to putting a volt meter on it.
I have a returning loop about 150 feet long (50 meteres ish) and suffer from a voltage drop at the far end. i use burgular alarm cable as when I used 2.5mm main cable the power didn't get through. One exstream to another.
I'am presuming that my voltage drop is the length of the run of track can anyone suggest a cable gauge that would be a good conductor for me. As I will be adding a branch line down the other side of the garden about 150 feet back to the cabin. I use a 10amp Elite power supply.
I have other intermediate feeds in but now i've tested it with a volt meter rather than "it seems to be slower" it drops 20% about 90 feet away and 40% at the 150 feet.
any suggestoins? I have tightened all the fish plates prior to putting a volt meter on it.