Sarah Winfield
Registered
All my track and my few pieces of rolling stock items are LGB. PIKO appears to be more economical. Would I be best not trying to just have LGB?
Opinion please.
- Thread starter Sarah Winfield
- Start date
Oh Sarah! 
Asking for an opinion on a Forum such as this!
The rail is the same 'code' (size).
The brass will be a different colour, and with take differing times to weather.
The sleeper spacing will be different.
The sleeper shape will be slightly different.
The sleeper colour will be slightly different.
But once it has been down for several months, in the garden, you will not notice any of the above.
Asking for an opinion on a Forum such as this!
The rail is the same 'code' (size).
The brass will be a different colour, and with take differing times to weather.
The sleeper spacing will be different.
The sleeper shape will be slightly different.
The sleeper colour will be slightly different.
But once it has been down for several months, in the garden, you will not notice any of the above.
Neil Robinson
Registered
You need have no worries about mixing these two brands. Run whatever you like best on whatever track you wish.
In general Piko rolling stock is based on standard gauge prototypes whereas LGB can be both narrow and standard. Piko is generally cheaper and arguably a little less robust but still of very good quality.
In general Piko rolling stock is based on standard gauge prototypes whereas LGB can be both narrow and standard. Piko is generally cheaper and arguably a little less robust but still of very good quality.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
As Phil and Neil have said, you can mix-and-match freely between LGB and Piko track (and many other brands too). For rolling stock and locos, as long as you feel they look "about right" together then go with it! Couplings will all match up (certainly with European stuff if using standard hook-and-loop couplers, American style "knuckles" are another thing entirely) and the Piko stock, while generally being models of standard gauge prototypes as Neil mentioned above, usually comes with alternative buffer beams so you can use standard-gauge style twin buffers or the narrow-gauge style single centre buffer as you prefer.
Jon.
Jon.
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
I use the LNER rule to choose my pieces of equipment and track.
LNER = Look Near Enough Right?
Rule 8 Its your railway do what you want with it, if others tell you they don't like the look of it; tell them to stop looking.
Last edited:
SophieB
Registered
Our track is a hodge podge of LGB, Aristocraft and USA Trains, though when buying new we stick to USA T because over here it's cheaper and I like the way the ties stay connected to the track if you take the coupling plate off. The only concern, as fas as I am concerned, is to ensure that you stay with all European or all US tie/sleeper spacing. We don't have any Pico track due simply to what was available.
As far as rolling stock goes we have a bit of everything. All of our stock gets hook and loop couplers as we place a higher priority on reliability and interchangeability than we do the more realistic look of knuckle couplers.
As far as rolling stock goes we have a bit of everything. All of our stock gets hook and loop couplers as we place a higher priority on reliability and interchangeability than we do the more realistic look of knuckle couplers.
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
On the real railway, you will see different types of sleepers and rail.
I have mostly LGB (code 332) track, although I also have some ART, PIKO and Train-line track. All have a similar spacing of sleepers, although the colouring and shape are slightly different. As said before, once weathered and ballasted, you wouldn't notice the difference.
So Sarah, if you can save a few quid by buying a certain manufacturers track over another, then do it. It's all pretty much the same stuff at the end of the day....
I have mostly LGB (code 332) track, although I also have some ART, PIKO and Train-line track. All have a similar spacing of sleepers, although the colouring and shape are slightly different. As said before, once weathered and ballasted, you wouldn't notice the difference.
So Sarah, if you can save a few quid by buying a certain manufacturers track over another, then do it. It's all pretty much the same stuff at the end of the day....
ge_rik
British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
Hi Sarah
As has been said - mix and match is fine. My track is a combination of LGB, Piko, Trainline and Tenmille (EDIT: oh yes, and Aristocraft) - they all work alongside each other perfectly (even the Tenmille which is a different profile).
My rolling stock is a complete hodge-podge including the cheapest of the lot - HLW - http://www.h-l-w.com/products.html .
Rik
As has been said - mix and match is fine. My track is a combination of LGB, Piko, Trainline and Tenmille (EDIT: oh yes, and Aristocraft) - they all work alongside each other perfectly (even the Tenmille which is a different profile).
My rolling stock is a complete hodge-podge including the cheapest of the lot - HLW - http://www.h-l-w.com/products.html .
Rik
Last edited:
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
I use what ever cropped up at the right price - including Aristocraft USA style track with smaller, closer sleepers (the rail is the same size). It all looks fine once it's down. If your trying to save a few quid - look at secondhand track - it is tough stuff so usually OK. Having said that - dont trust e-bay - track frequently sells on there for more than new - god only knows why. The main oddball is Peco (not Piko) which uses a smaller rail profile, but even that can be joined with special joiners (which I think are garbage) or a pair of pliers on a standard metal joiner.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
One of the big benefits of LGB's code 332 rail based track system is that it has numerous "compatibles" from rival makes. As mentioned - Piko, Aristocraft, Trainline, Bachmann, USA Trains, Accucraft, etc'. While there may be differences in sleeper spacing, colour and some aspects of their geometries they all fit together without, or with minimal, need for any adapters.
Some of these rival makes offer the advantage of producing some specialised track components, that LGB may not have in its range. These can be used to overcome particular operational issues - e.g. Piko's curved points. There are also those businesses, like Garden Railway Specialists, who can provide bespoke track solutions based on LGB's code 332 rail profile to meet more specific needs, like dual gauge operation. Max
Some of these rival makes offer the advantage of producing some specialised track components, that LGB may not have in its range. These can be used to overcome particular operational issues - e.g. Piko's curved points. There are also those businesses, like Garden Railway Specialists, who can provide bespoke track solutions based on LGB's code 332 rail profile to meet more specific needs, like dual gauge operation. Max
chris m01
Registered
When I started out in G about 18 years ago I bought 60 odd foot of secondhand Aristocraft track. It had obviously been out in someone’s garden for some time before I bought it. It is still in use on my main line and giving no problems at all. Over the years I have had a policy of buying whatever track was at the best price and never had a problem.
I have used both LGB and Aristo points, again no major problems. Aristo points need to have the screws underneath tightened after about 15 years.
The one thing I avoid is LGB R1 curves and their equivalent in other makes.
USA Trains is my favourite brand for locos and rolling stock.
I have used both LGB and Aristo points, again no major problems. Aristo points need to have the screws underneath tightened after about 15 years.
The one thing I avoid is LGB R1 curves and their equivalent in other makes.
USA Trains is my favourite brand for locos and rolling stock.
Hutch
G Gauge, Raising Peaches, Apricots
I have a mixture of brands, primarily LGB and AristoCraft. The only problem I have had is with AML flex track. The rail profile is about 10 thousandths taller than the other brands, it required some creative filing to ease the joint at each end. Luckily there is only one 3 foot section to deal with.
spoz
What do I do? What I'm told by SWMBO
I've got a mixture of LGB and Piko, both ordinary track and points, mostly R3 in LGB speak which is R5 in Piko speak (that difference can be a little confusing) and a few (LGB) R1s and Piko equivilants in the shed which is the storage area.
Some of each type had been down for a decade or so, and some of it gets walked on regularly. As has been said above, after that time I would find it hard to determine which was which but for the fact that the point lever system is different. I use batteries so I can't comment about electrical durability, but certainly from the physical durability perspective there is little to choose in the normal track, and I actually prefer the Piko points because they are mechanically a little simpler - and as noted, cheaper.
Mike, be interested to know what your bad experiences were?
Some of each type had been down for a decade or so, and some of it gets walked on regularly. As has been said above, after that time I would find it hard to determine which was which but for the fact that the point lever system is different. I use batteries so I can't comment about electrical durability, but certainly from the physical durability perspective there is little to choose in the normal track, and I actually prefer the Piko points because they are mechanically a little simpler - and as noted, cheaper.
Mike, be interested to know what your bad experiences were?
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
When I started my line (2005), track could be obtained new for around 2.50 sterling a foot. I bought the 5ft lengths (rail in a tube) of LGB track with the sleeper lengths in a box. In my opinion, LGB track has superb weathering qualities and looks like the real thing when the natural process is complete. I have Aristocraft track which has black sleepers (a lot which have weathered to a light grey), Piko track, AMS track - both having brown sleepers.
Piko points can (and do) suffer from electrical problems - as can early LGB ones. Both can be sorted if you have a little patience.
So, in a nut shell, I have a large variety of different length and varying curve radii. It all weathers down eventually and, if you ballast it (it doesn't have to be bedded on ballast just around it) it looks fine.
As for space, take the advice and go for larger radiused curves if you can (just in case the bug bites and you end up running far larger locos and trains than you ever imagined!),
But R1 curves can be useful and do work - I have a self-contained layout in a trailer which is all R1's (points, curves and reverse curves) plus straights of course!
As for length, I use 300mm, 600mm, 900mm,, 1200mm and 1500mm (the latter three sizes in the garden). In the trailer, the shorter lengths have the nice, pre-continuously welded rail. clikety click!
That's my six pen'orth!
Piko points can (and do) suffer from electrical problems - as can early LGB ones. Both can be sorted if you have a little patience.
So, in a nut shell, I have a large variety of different length and varying curve radii. It all weathers down eventually and, if you ballast it (it doesn't have to be bedded on ballast just around it) it looks fine.
As for space, take the advice and go for larger radiused curves if you can (just in case the bug bites and you end up running far larger locos and trains than you ever imagined!),
But R1 curves can be useful and do work - I have a self-contained layout in a trailer which is all R1's (points, curves and reverse curves) plus straights of course!
As for length, I use 300mm, 600mm, 900mm,, 1200mm and 1500mm (the latter three sizes in the garden). In the trailer, the shorter lengths have the nice, pre-continuously welded rail. clikety click!
That's my six pen'orth!
All that track has got to be worth more than 6d
I am using LGB, Aristo, Train Line and mostly Peco for its nice small section and sensible radius curves on the points.
Before I moved to this new house and line I purchased a good supply of Aristo 4ft Radius Curves as that was to be my desired norm on the main lines.
Below can be seen the change from Aristo 4ft Rad curves to Peco point.
Below interface between a Train Line R2 point and Peco Rail in my Shed.
Below also in my shed a change between Peco and LGB.
Finally out side Peco LGB Aristo 4ft Rad Curve
Note how I do not worry too much about the changes,mthe track above is not in a sceniced area so to be honest looks a bit rough but runs fine.
Note how the Aristo Curve even after over 5 years outside has not tarnished from its yellow. This Is not the case for LGB, Train Line or Peco Rail. All tarnishing over not a very long time to a nuce satisfying dark colour.
I do use mostly Rail Clamps and have some that interface between Peco and 332 Rail quite nicely. For Electrical Sections I try to make them at the interface between 332 and Peco Rail with the Peco Interface Fishplate (Peco SL912 G-45 Dual Joiners) as can be seen top left join in the above shot. If you leave out the short section of Nickle Strip they are insulated.
To be honest I am not sure that I would trust them ling term outside for Live Connection. But I stand to be corrected by someone on the forum who has been using them thus for donkeys years!
Before I moved to this new house and line I purchased a good supply of Aristo 4ft Radius Curves as that was to be my desired norm on the main lines.
Below can be seen the change from Aristo 4ft Rad curves to Peco point.
Below interface between a Train Line R2 point and Peco Rail in my Shed.
Below also in my shed a change between Peco and LGB.
Finally out side Peco LGB Aristo 4ft Rad Curve
Note how I do not worry too much about the changes,mthe track above is not in a sceniced area so to be honest looks a bit rough but runs fine.
Note how the Aristo Curve even after over 5 years outside has not tarnished from its yellow. This Is not the case for LGB, Train Line or Peco Rail. All tarnishing over not a very long time to a nuce satisfying dark colour.
I do use mostly Rail Clamps and have some that interface between Peco and 332 Rail quite nicely. For Electrical Sections I try to make them at the interface between 332 and Peco Rail with the Peco Interface Fishplate (Peco SL912 G-45 Dual Joiners) as can be seen top left join in the above shot. If you leave out the short section of Nickle Strip they are insulated.
To be honest I am not sure that I would trust them ling term outside for Live Connection. But I stand to be corrected by someone on the forum who has been using them thus for donkeys years!
