Newbie in need of some DCC advice

A

aovenden

Registered
Hi guys, I'm new to the whole DCC side of things and could do with some advice on converting from analog to DCC. I have moved up from N to G scale and my plan has always been to have a DCC controlled railway. Things have started out as is most often the case with an LGB starter set and some track. This has got my line up and running for now.

Next is the fun part. Over the past few weeks I have been collecting bits here and there to start moving to DCC. I have a couple of 50110 for the power. I have just purchased an MTS 3 central station and universal remote from the real nice daveyb. I have a 55022 small loco decoder to go in the stainz from the kit. Now the only thing I have to do is get it all working (sounds easy enough).

I have made a few assumptions which I hope may prove to be correct or if not could you please correct me.

First the track. There seems to be power over the entire layout so I can currently control the loco on any part of the track regardless of an switch settings so I ASSUME that to start with I shouldn't need any isolators or further track connection clips for the time being.

Second I need to find some way to programme the decoder so that the remote and loco can talk to each other. In the long term is it going to be easier to invest in a PC programmer rather than doing it from the handset. I think Massoth do a USB one which would be better these days than a serial one and I ASSUME this would be ok to do LGB as well.

I do have plans maybe when funds allow to move over to a Massoth navigator and wireless, but that is not top of the list to get this working.

Any basic tips for doing this would be most helpful and I'm sure I might be asking a few more questions in the very near future.

Cheers,

Alan.
 
Hi guys, I'm new to the whole DCC side of things and could do with some advice on converting from analog to DCC.

I have made a few assumptions which I hope may prove to be correct or if not could you please correct me.

First the track. There seems to be power over the entire layout so I can currently control the loco on any part of the track regardless of an switch settings so I ASSUME that to start with I shouldn't need any isolators or further track connection clips for the time being. This is correct....

Second I need to find some way to programme the decoder so that the remote and loco can talk to each other. In the long term is it going to be easier to invest in a PC programmer rather than doing it from the handset. I think Massoth do a USB one which would be better these days than a serial one and I ASSUME this would be ok to do LGB as well. You might be able to find a second hand PC programmer like the LGB one I have. I think Glendale have one in their second hand listings. You could also purchase a Sprog....



Cheers,

Gizzy
 
Further to my last, Glendale do indeed have an LGB 55045 MTS PC Programming Module in their 2nd Hand listing for £43.

No box and no software, but you can down load this from Stellwerk?

I will try and find the link for you....
 
Lots of useful info, including the linky for Stellwork, in my thread here;

https://www.gscalecentral.net/digital-(dcc)/mts-pc-6-0-software-to-control-the-lgb/30/

I have an old copy Version 4.0 which you are welcome to have for the cost of postage....
 
And to help you fit the decoder in the Stainz, a write up from Rik also of this forum....

http://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2008/06/how-did-i-install-decoder-in-my-stainz.html
 
Welcome to the forum, Alan. :)

Re the programming of the decoder, you CAN do everything that you actually need right now from your universal handset; but if you want to make it easier, with a simple-to-use graphic interface, then as Gizzy suggests: buy a Sprog: http://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk/

It will do everything you need now, AND it will still be fully compatible when and if you move up to a full Massoth Dimax system. It will also allow you to program ANY decoder, not just LGB or Massoth branded ones - something you might find useful later as you get further into the hobby.

You're quite right that the beauty of DCC is that you don't need any isolated sections, extra wiring, switches etc - just two feed wires to the track and you're up and running!

Jon.
 
Welcome Alan,

I see you are in Southampton, not that far from me in Hythe, maybe we could meet up sometime, PM me or call the GRO telephone number 023.80-84_08.34.

You could certainly use the 55022 small loco decoder for the Stainz but you may find that the 55021 or the Massoth eMotion L decoder would be easier if the loco has a "Direct Decoder" interface.
 
ho ho,,, welcome to the dark side,,,,,, and strangely i do feel culpable in your forthcoming decent into insanity,,,,

as they say in umbongo land,,,,,, wibble,,,
 
Thanks for all the advice. Cheers Gizzy, I'll have to have a look through all the links you posted to see what the software is like. I am looking for something easy. It does seem to be a lot more complicated than analog, but its the way forward and I'd rather sort it on my layout while its still small. Hi Muns, I actually live in Totton, so even nearer and it's good to know a few people around the area. No doubt after reading everything I will have more questions, but its good to know there are lots of friendly people out there.

Ok, so as DaveyB said let the insanity commence.

P.S I have posted a link to the layout in the video section called my layout so far if you'd like to have a look.
 
Well after waiting for days for the weather to clear I have had a chance to hook it all up. It worked much to my amazement. I haven't yet got a programmer so had to go through the numbers till I found the loco ID. Luckily I only had to get to 5. Posted a video on the link below so you can see it running.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jqy2A5bB_R0

Now I just have to wait till I can get my engine shed sorted so I don't have to keep packing it all away every time.

Next step is to probably get an sprog II and the DecoderPro software so I can program the chips.

Cheers,
Alan.
 
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