New Stainz to DCC upgrade.

Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

Professional Idiot
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I am looking to purchase a analogue Stainz with built in smoke and sound, with a view to then doing a digi chip upgrade.

Rather than getting a plain one with smoke and without sound and adding a sound chip.

I am assuming that my preferred option will be easy, as in plug and play, or am I just daft, do I get to control the functions as in a sound chip loco or any other pitfalls I am missing out on.

Opinions/views please....
 
I chipped my Stainz from a starter set, which had the smoke and 'matchbox' sound by adding a 55021 MTS decoder.

It's quite a tricky beast to get apart, as you put the chip inside the boiler, which contains a metal weight.

I did do an article for the forum on how to do it, but that was before the update to the forum software.

I will see if I can search for it....
 
Gordon, try putting 'chipping the stainz' in the search bar and you will find lots of threads.

Unfortunately, mine isn't one of them....
 
So its looks as if my first idea may not be what I desire then.

So it looks like I could well be in for a crash course in sound chip fitting.......
 
Possibly the SIMPLEST (though not necessarily the cheapest) way of doing it would be getting a modern Stainz that takes a plug-in direct decoder (use a Massoth L rather than an LGB 55021 - exactly the same fitting but cheaper!), and then using either one of the tiny Dietz/Uhlenbrock sound units - which plugs into the SUSI port on the L (another good reason for not using the 55021 which lacks the SUSI connector) - or a Massoth S sound module, which is more expensive than the former option but can be plugged directly to track power.

Jon.
 
Ok...

Part one of the upgrade is in hand, purchased a Stainz, ETA next week, will order other parts next week...

I may (who am I kidding!!), will be asking more questions.......
 
Stainzmeister said:
Yes Jon.
The SUSI port - a very good option. You could even use the speaker in the cab roof instead of fitting a new one.
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Click to expand...

Good idea, Paul - you'd have to desolder the existing speaker from the rudimentary sound module board that it comes as an integral part of, so it might be easier just to source a separate low-profile speaker of suitable size - but there should be room within the cab roof sound housing to squeeze one of the little Dietz (micro XS?) modules in there on top of the speaker itself; then the only wiring you'd have to run is the very fine SUSI cable back to the L decoder, which could simply follow the course of the removed original sound wiring connection. Should in theory be a very neat and simple job, no rewiring of lights or anything else needed, and the final fit would be completely invisible (in that it would look just like a normal "basic sound Stainz" with no extra wiring around or bits of electronics stuffed into the cab).
I also believe that the combo of an L and a Dietz/Uhlenbrock XS would still cost LESS than a Massoth LS or equivalent all-in-one sound and driving decoder.....

Jon.

PS: Nodrog - for sourcing and connection of one of the little SUSI sound modules, Cliff George is the man here to ask for advice. I believe he mostly uses the Uhlenbrock ones, which are badge-engineered versions of the Dietz (or vice-versa, I'm never 100% sure!).
 
The Stainz arrived this morning, and a bit cursing and swearing later, its now a pile of parts, (Sorry Paul) but its a lot quicker to strip than a 1:1 loco, and an order for a Massoth LS decoder bits and odds n sods has gone off to Muns...

So now the confession time.......

In my haste I forgot to order a decoder bracket, has anyone got a one spare they can sling this way, or suggest an alternative way to mount/fit it to the boiler weight? I have thought of servo tape or Velcro, that we use for RC boats....

BTW how do you get the rear bulb?
 
You don't need the brackets, Gordon - and in all probability there wouldn't be room to use them in the Stainz boiler anyway!
What I'd do is wrap the weight in insulating tape to avoid any shorting issues, then simply push the LS gently into the boiler space above the weight (after you've connected all the plugs for lighting, speaker etc). if you want to secure it just to be sure, then a strip of 1" wide double-sided foam tape should come with the decoder - just stick the LS to the weight with this, then slide the whole assembly into the boiler.

The rear bulb on a modern Stainz is accessed either by gently prising out the clear lens cover and pulling out the push-fit bulb with tweezers, or while you've got the whole loco apart you can access the rear lamp from the inside by removing the cab tool rack and the rear cab glazing.

Jon.
 
Addendum to my last post above: just had a look at the other thread you started, Gordon, and from that I can see that it IS possible to use one of the Massoth decoder mounting brackets after all; I had forgotten that the newest Stainzes had a two-part boiler, which combined with the newer weight shape seems to give a lot more space than the old ones. Still, I reckon you'll be fine with the double-sided foam that comes with the LS.

Jon.
 
So that's both of my confessions sorted then.......

Bracket is in hand.....will have a look at the rear glazing/tools later.....

Time to put this topic on hold I think......going to follow the Massoth fitting version as posted in the guides section.
 
Remember I said I would be asking for help well....


Digi upgrade of the Stainz, after a few hours of tearing what little hair I have out, it was all working, sound, smoke and lights on the test fit.

So I put it all together, and then the smoke wont work, and I have two screws left over.....(the first person who mentions I've always had a few screws loose,
goes on my Crimbo Card List, and I am noted for my crap Crimbo cards, so be warned) >:(

Still trying to get the right CV setting for the 5V smoke unit, can get it do to 6V and no lower, sick of reading the instructions until I am boss eyed..

Guess what I could be doing tomorrow?

Hammer anyone..
 
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