Battery Railcar using Peter Spoerer (Fosworks) kit
- Thread starter dunnyrail
- Start date
Well I checked three of mine, which have three contacts as there is one pair switched by inserting the plug..
There is no continuity between any of the three contacts, and the barrel which is used to fix the socket.
I am now going to check with a plug inserted, as you have sown a seed of doubt.
OK..
Egg on face time! We are both right..
No plug, no connection between barrel and contacts..
With plug, there is indeed a connection between the outer barrel of the plug (whatever polarity you connect this to) and the barrel of the socket.
Apologies to Tony!
Egg on face time! We are both right..
No plug, no connection between barrel and contacts..
With plug, there is indeed a connection between the outer barrel of the plug (whatever polarity you connect this to) and the barrel of the socket.
Apologies to Tony!
Phil. If the barrel in the jack shown is metal it is connected to the centre terminal in the jacks I use. Not the centre pin. It relies upon the friction contact between the plug and the jack barrel to make the circuit. Therefore the barrel will have the same potential as whatever that centre terminal has.
If I am wrong with that particular jack shown, I would be keen to find a source of those jacks where the metal barrel is insulated from all three terminals.
There are other jacks available with plastic mounts that have the same purpose. Generally they are quite a bit bigger.
If I am wrong with that particular jack shown, I would be keen to find a source of those jacks where the metal barrel is insulated from all three terminals.
There are other jacks available with plastic mounts that have the same purpose. Generally they are quite a bit bigger.
Mine appear to be similar..
There is a switch mechanism, operated by the barrel of the plug, which breaks the connection. It is only when the plug is in the socket I get a connection between the barrel of the socket and the connection to the rear of the socket.
I am guessing we both probably get them from the same Aladin's cave of bits and pieces?
Hi Phil.
No need for egg on face.
You were 100% correct and I was only 50% correct.
I had neglected to test with just the jack which on its own indeed has no connection between the barrel and the middle terminal.
All my testing had been with the plug inserted, either a charger or plug in back up batteries in a trail car. In those scenarios the barrel always had a potential.
I often convert brass locos so am always wary about how the charge jack is mounted. Some early brass locos used one side of the loco for pick up and the opposite side in the tender as the return. Insulation between the loco and the tender was achieved via the drawbar mount.
Not so big a problem nowadays.
So, be careful nevertheless, as plugging in a charger will always make the barrel part of the circuit. There must be no possible potential on a metal frame to which the jack will connected.
No need for egg on face.
You were 100% correct and I was only 50% correct.
I had neglected to test with just the jack which on its own indeed has no connection between the barrel and the middle terminal.
All my testing had been with the plug inserted, either a charger or plug in back up batteries in a trail car. In those scenarios the barrel always had a potential.
I often convert brass locos so am always wary about how the charge jack is mounted. Some early brass locos used one side of the loco for pick up and the opposite side in the tender as the return. Insulation between the loco and the tender was achieved via the drawbar mount.
Not so big a problem nowadays.
So, be careful nevertheless, as plugging in a charger will always make the barrel part of the circuit. There must be no possible potential on a metal frame to which the jack will connected.
Thanks for the warning Tony. All of that gear is located above the Ally Base except of course for the wires to the Motors. These have been passed through the ally via a Rubber Plug so all should be OK. But the point is taken so I may need to think again about that Charging Socket Location. I also guess this may be a possible problem where I have converted a couple of Roundhouse Live Steam Locs to Peters kit. This far all is well with the Charging routines.
Will need to check how Peter Spoerer Wiring looms are made up. But in light of later replies I think things should be fine.
Note to self read all posts before making a reply!
Whoops, I'd better check my connector & plug. I've got rechargeable batteries on one of my locos, but also an on/off switch so all should be fine
Unless you have wired the socket to use plug in back up batteries the only possible time there could be a problem is during charging. As long as there is no possibility of any wiring being connected to the metal chassis you will be good to go.
I think Peter Spoerer wiring looms are not set up for back up batteries.
I think Peter Spoerer wiring looms are not set up for back up batteries.
No backup batteries just the main power ones. Just checked out Peter's wiring loom and the Base is not connected to either the Live or Neg wire so all would appear to be well in the world!
Have edited the Title slightly to show that I actually got all the Electronics from Fowsorks.
More work has been done, I made a start on the paint work last week. Masking up was a pretty big job as the Windows all needed to be separately masked inside plus the Undneath and Roofline. I use Tamiya as there is no better than this in my view. Once the edges have been done with this cheepo can be used to do all the fill area's as it is the edges that can be the issue with bleed through. However before the Colours and masking all the below was sprayed Halfords Matt Black. Once masked Halfords "Rover Leyland White" has been used for the Whole Body. Once this has well dried (a day or two in the Airing Cupboard) more masking tape is add to the Top from where the Join is to be with the Colours. Then another Spray of the White (this seals the joint and stops bleed through). Again after a couple of days to dry I used Halford's "Audi Laser Red" for the bottom part. Allow a day or so before each side in all cases as I like to Spray with the vehicle on its side.
For the Colours and the method of creating a neat join in the Colours I need to thank previous members of either this or the Mad Forum.
Prior to Black below.
Completed Colours.
Close up to show the effect of a neat line.
I have made a start on Glazing now to be followed by how to get the dratted roof so that it can be removed, complex solutions regarding inserts with Screws that can be taken out are in the iffering.
More work has been done, I made a start on the paint work last week. Masking up was a pretty big job as the Windows all needed to be separately masked inside plus the Undneath and Roofline. I use Tamiya as there is no better than this in my view. Once the edges have been done with this cheepo can be used to do all the fill area's as it is the edges that can be the issue with bleed through. However before the Colours and masking all the below was sprayed Halfords Matt Black. Once masked Halfords "Rover Leyland White" has been used for the Whole Body. Once this has well dried (a day or two in the Airing Cupboard) more masking tape is add to the Top from where the Join is to be with the Colours. Then another Spray of the White (this seals the joint and stops bleed through). Again after a couple of days to dry I used Halford's "Audi Laser Red" for the bottom part. Allow a day or so before each side in all cases as I like to Spray with the vehicle on its side.
For the Colours and the method of creating a neat join in the Colours I need to thank previous members of either this or the Mad Forum.
Prior to Black below.
Completed Colours.
Close up to show the effect of a neat line.
I have made a start on Glazing now to be followed by how to get the dratted roof so that it can be removed, complex solutions regarding inserts with Screws that can be taken out are in the iffering.
Having sprayed the beast it really was time to get to grips with the roof. It all turned out much easier than I imagind. Andy had cut a large flat roof profile and there was a GRS Curved profile to go on top of that. The solution was to glue some Hips to where Body Cross Pieces are that would match where 8BA Screws would hold the roof in place. 6 holes were drilled and Tapped 8BA. 4 Screw Heads can just be made out in the picture below. Also the Trap Door Hole in the roof where the Power Plug is fitted, this had been glued to the Body Cross Piece as well. The Battery Pack (a special 15 Aa Pack from Fosworks) has been held in place by both Jaffa Tape and the Brass Wire, the wire is just twisted together beneath the roof having been threaded through drilled holes.
The rear two screw heads and Battery Wire passing theough the trap door.
Note the A on the Roof Flat, I always mark Units for A and B end, this is what the prototype do to know which end is which (1 or 2 end works as well) as many parts will be end related when fitting. Plus on my line the A end is always pointing towards Gernrode so that the Controllers mostly function so the Right makes the Train go Right. Helps newcomers to the line, though they do get confused when it changes after the loop and Trains are on the Low Level.
Next up was the curved Roof Top that will hide the Batteries, this has more holes drilled and 6BA Screws threaded through and into the Tapped Holes. The Roof Boxes one each end will probably have a Removable Lid and Destination Boards fitted. Not unlike the ones that were used on BR Mark 1 Coaches. I have used these before on the Ruschbahn.
Couple of views on the line.
Next up will be to finalise some of the Details like Exhausts, door Handles Cables and general DMU Junk. Plus of course some lettering. This may be done temporarily as I believe that Herr Troeger is unwell at the moment and delays are to be expected in deliveries.
You Tube Vid of Test Running, this worked out very well with the Bubble Car dragging my Test Train the Ruschgahn Fuel Train which I thought to be appropriate for these tests. Barney and Winston (a weekend visitor) look on. The Signal Stop was due to difficulties of driving an iPad for the Video and the Train. The stop whistle and bell being to replicate a Signal Failure where the Train has been flagged in by Station Staff. I do like to Operate in a Railwaylike way if I can.
The rear two screw heads and Battery Wire passing theough the trap door.
Note the A on the Roof Flat, I always mark Units for A and B end, this is what the prototype do to know which end is which (1 or 2 end works as well) as many parts will be end related when fitting. Plus on my line the A end is always pointing towards Gernrode so that the Controllers mostly function so the Right makes the Train go Right. Helps newcomers to the line, though they do get confused when it changes after the loop and Trains are on the Low Level.
Next up was the curved Roof Top that will hide the Batteries, this has more holes drilled and 6BA Screws threaded through and into the Tapped Holes. The Roof Boxes one each end will probably have a Removable Lid and Destination Boards fitted. Not unlike the ones that were used on BR Mark 1 Coaches. I have used these before on the Ruschbahn.
Couple of views on the line.
Next up will be to finalise some of the Details like Exhausts, door Handles Cables and general DMU Junk. Plus of course some lettering. This may be done temporarily as I believe that Herr Troeger is unwell at the moment and delays are to be expected in deliveries.
You Tube Vid of Test Running, this worked out very well with the Bubble Car dragging my Test Train the Ruschgahn Fuel Train which I thought to be appropriate for these tests. Barney and Winston (a weekend visitor) look on. The Signal Stop was due to difficulties of driving an iPad for the Video and the Train. The stop whistle and bell being to replicate a Signal Failure where the Train has been flagged in by Station Staff. I do like to Operate in a Railwaylike way if I can.
Nice work. Ref the transfers sorry to hear about Herr Troeger. I am going to try printing my own transfers on inkjet decal paper for my steam railcar. I hasten to add I've never tried it before so it might be a complete disaster but as the paper is less than a £1 a sheet I thought it worth a shot.
There are varying success stories with this process. Peter Smith on his BiCabins has used Waterside transfer paper, I have to say that he has had a lot of success even using it for very complex lining. He finishes off with a coat of Microscale Satin Varnish to preserve the Transfers. Best to practice on some Plasticard or Tinplate before you do it on your conversion.
Thanks for the tip, I had heard similar on a retailers web site that sells the stuff, here: http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Finishes/Transfers/Item/Decal-paper-inkjet-clear/ITM4557
Scroll down for instructions, or here in PDF format: http://modelshop.co.uk/Content/DynamicMedia/cms-uploaded/files/4D_guide-decals.pdf
http://modelshop.co.uk/Content/DynamicMedia/cms-uploaded/files/4D_guide-decals.pdf
Scroll down for instructions, or here in PDF format: http://modelshop.co.uk/Content/DynamicMedia/cms-uploaded/files/4D_guide-decals.pdf
http://modelshop.co.uk/Content/DynamicMedia/cms-uploaded/files/4D_guide-decals.pdf
Thanks for the links, may give this a try. I have been threatening to for yonks. Thing is I use a Lazer mostly so may need to get a the non lazer that I have out of its box and actually use it.
