
Fosworks OMNI Tx-4.1 and OMNI Rx-4H DCC System for Battery Control
After the disappointment of Massoth DRC 300 non appearance you wait for ages to get a UK Battery System that will work with DCC Chips then 2 come along at the same time! I have elsewhere on the Forum reviewed another system and in truth Steve of Fosworks has been passing subtle hints for a month or three about a possible Fosworks solution. Well he very kindly asked me to be one of his Beta Testers and with his permission I have produced this review.
What has changed in the Product Line is to produce a DCC compatible Transmitter and Reciever. These and the Battery Setup are the key to updating an existing DCC Locomotive to Battery DCC Operation.


The Transmitter (4x11x6.3 cm over buttons) differs from previous Hand Held ones only by having a Shift Button which allows the 3 normal buttons to have a dual function thus allowing 6 DCC Actions to be triggered. This may appear a little restrictive compared to perhaps the Aristo System with its clunking Shift Function to get more functions, to me I find that 6 is more than enough and some Function Mapping revisions will take care of ensuring that I have the ones that I need. Fosworks have intimated that they may be able to offer a service to carry out such re-mapping. The other difference on mine was that there was no Inertia Knob, something that should be irrelevant with a Decoder. You will also find a massive cost difference between the 2 systems, Fosworks being the less expensive by a pretty large margin. It is possible to change the 3 buttons to allow for Momentary or Latching but I would prefer to leave the Chip to decide those options. In any case Holding the relevant button down gave continuous operation of the Bell and Whistle on the Chips that I tested out which suited me just fine. The re-programming (Binding) process for this change in Functions for both the Switch and Binding with a Different Receiver uses the Top Buttons, I have had difficulty with this but I believe that it is one of those things that once you get the hang of it you will wonder what the problem was! 2 aaa batteries neatly fit into a sliding cover on the front and my previous systems have lasted a pretty long time.
There is very little to say about the Receiver except to say that it is 2 small boards linked together with Radio Control Type Plugs with a Spare for an ESC (whatever that does, presumably for programming). This unit has Rx5 (4.3x3x1.2 cm plus to be added the Plugs and Wires) on a label so that is what I will refer to it as. Clearly you will not want to unplug this and get the thing plugged back in the wrong way round. So if you need to for fitting I would suggest carefully noting as well as taking a picture to make sure that you get it all back together correctly. The other board I will refer to as the Rx4 (3.3x3.3x1.2 plus the wires) has the 4 Screw Fit Choc Strip Type holes that are the link to a Locomotive. The two sockets that are labelled DCC go out direct to the DCC Decoder. These could be connected via a DPDT Centre off so that they could be changed over to be Track Powered if that were the requirement. In this case the Battery should be turned off as well, the other two sockets are for Battery Power please note that the Plus must be that! I tend to use a Fosworks No.1 Loom and Batteries thus making it all fit together without any hassle providing you remember to ask for a Wire to feed this unit! On the label this suggests a Battery input of 7-24 Volts so there should be plenty of power available at the top end.
Setting up a Loco is pretty straightforwards. With a 4 Pin LGB Loco 2 are Track Power the other 2 are to the Motor, those 4 wires will come from the Chip so first up is to cut the two from the Chip. The motor ones do not need to be cut. If you wish to maintain the Track Powered option run the two wires from the chip to the centre plugs of the DPDT. The other two to two at one end maintaining Colour Co-ordination for simplicity. Now connect two wires of the same colour to the RX4 to the DCC out Contacts. Again use Colour Coding to get the orientation correct keeping to the Chips notation of DCC + and - even though this does not hold strictly true with DCC. Now via the No1 Loom an output feed from the Battery should be connnected to the other Battery ve Contacts. Ensure that you get + and - correct for this. I like to have all + Wires as Red to get this right, - are Black. This is Vital that you get it right! So you are now ready to go.
The pics below shows my Fosworks Test Setup exactly the same as I used for my Aristo Testing.


The Pic below shows the setup not yet coupled to a Chip. Note the Standard LGB Colour conventions that I have used in my Test Rig.

I have tested this kit out using the following DCC/MTS systems:-
Loksound XL Shay
Massoth XLS with Historic Streetcar Sounds
LGB Europa Steam Sound Box LGB 65000 and 55021 Chip.
All operated in exactly the same way when I checked them out on both Track Power DCC/MTS as with this kit via Battery Operation. So I can honestly say that if you can cope with just 6 sounds this may well be for you.
In Operation, I am assuming that Fosworks will have bound the TX to the RX for you. Turn on the Battery having first ensured that your DPDT Switch (if you fitted one) is switched for Battery Operation. A light will come on on the RX-4 and you should hear a hiss or rumble of a Diesel. Turn the Controller and away she goes. You can Stop the Loco or leave it running and see what F1-6 gives you, they will be the same as if you are driving on a DCC System. That is it pretty seamless and can only add to your enjoyment, now enjoy running with no Track Cleaning.
This is a 2.4GHz System with a claimed range of 800 metres. It is already advertised on the Fosworks site so I will not do any pricing information here as these things can change.
I must complete this review by saying that I have no connection with Fosworks other than being a satisfied customer.
Finally. There is also the possibility to use a Viper with this setup which one needs one to match the Driving Speed with the sounds of the Chips. Frankly I have not tested this and I may get round to it in the near future.
I also asked about Amps Rating and will get back when I have a reply. But for the moment I would think that all LGB Locomotives should be fine,mit may be a bit limited if one were trying to hook up one or two lumpy USA Locomotives via the same chio.
After the disappointment of Massoth DRC 300 non appearance you wait for ages to get a UK Battery System that will work with DCC Chips then 2 come along at the same time! I have elsewhere on the Forum reviewed another system and in truth Steve of Fosworks has been passing subtle hints for a month or three about a possible Fosworks solution. Well he very kindly asked me to be one of his Beta Testers and with his permission I have produced this review.
What has changed in the Product Line is to produce a DCC compatible Transmitter and Reciever. These and the Battery Setup are the key to updating an existing DCC Locomotive to Battery DCC Operation.


The Transmitter (4x11x6.3 cm over buttons) differs from previous Hand Held ones only by having a Shift Button which allows the 3 normal buttons to have a dual function thus allowing 6 DCC Actions to be triggered. This may appear a little restrictive compared to perhaps the Aristo System with its clunking Shift Function to get more functions, to me I find that 6 is more than enough and some Function Mapping revisions will take care of ensuring that I have the ones that I need. Fosworks have intimated that they may be able to offer a service to carry out such re-mapping. The other difference on mine was that there was no Inertia Knob, something that should be irrelevant with a Decoder. You will also find a massive cost difference between the 2 systems, Fosworks being the less expensive by a pretty large margin. It is possible to change the 3 buttons to allow for Momentary or Latching but I would prefer to leave the Chip to decide those options. In any case Holding the relevant button down gave continuous operation of the Bell and Whistle on the Chips that I tested out which suited me just fine. The re-programming (Binding) process for this change in Functions for both the Switch and Binding with a Different Receiver uses the Top Buttons, I have had difficulty with this but I believe that it is one of those things that once you get the hang of it you will wonder what the problem was! 2 aaa batteries neatly fit into a sliding cover on the front and my previous systems have lasted a pretty long time.
There is very little to say about the Receiver except to say that it is 2 small boards linked together with Radio Control Type Plugs with a Spare for an ESC (whatever that does, presumably for programming). This unit has Rx5 (4.3x3x1.2 cm plus to be added the Plugs and Wires) on a label so that is what I will refer to it as. Clearly you will not want to unplug this and get the thing plugged back in the wrong way round. So if you need to for fitting I would suggest carefully noting as well as taking a picture to make sure that you get it all back together correctly. The other board I will refer to as the Rx4 (3.3x3.3x1.2 plus the wires) has the 4 Screw Fit Choc Strip Type holes that are the link to a Locomotive. The two sockets that are labelled DCC go out direct to the DCC Decoder. These could be connected via a DPDT Centre off so that they could be changed over to be Track Powered if that were the requirement. In this case the Battery should be turned off as well, the other two sockets are for Battery Power please note that the Plus must be that! I tend to use a Fosworks No.1 Loom and Batteries thus making it all fit together without any hassle providing you remember to ask for a Wire to feed this unit! On the label this suggests a Battery input of 7-24 Volts so there should be plenty of power available at the top end.
Setting up a Loco is pretty straightforwards. With a 4 Pin LGB Loco 2 are Track Power the other 2 are to the Motor, those 4 wires will come from the Chip so first up is to cut the two from the Chip. The motor ones do not need to be cut. If you wish to maintain the Track Powered option run the two wires from the chip to the centre plugs of the DPDT. The other two to two at one end maintaining Colour Co-ordination for simplicity. Now connect two wires of the same colour to the RX4 to the DCC out Contacts. Again use Colour Coding to get the orientation correct keeping to the Chips notation of DCC + and - even though this does not hold strictly true with DCC. Now via the No1 Loom an output feed from the Battery should be connnected to the other Battery ve Contacts. Ensure that you get + and - correct for this. I like to have all + Wires as Red to get this right, - are Black. This is Vital that you get it right! So you are now ready to go.
The pics below shows my Fosworks Test Setup exactly the same as I used for my Aristo Testing.


The Pic below shows the setup not yet coupled to a Chip. Note the Standard LGB Colour conventions that I have used in my Test Rig.

I have tested this kit out using the following DCC/MTS systems:-
Loksound XL Shay
Massoth XLS with Historic Streetcar Sounds
LGB Europa Steam Sound Box LGB 65000 and 55021 Chip.
All operated in exactly the same way when I checked them out on both Track Power DCC/MTS as with this kit via Battery Operation. So I can honestly say that if you can cope with just 6 sounds this may well be for you.
In Operation, I am assuming that Fosworks will have bound the TX to the RX for you. Turn on the Battery having first ensured that your DPDT Switch (if you fitted one) is switched for Battery Operation. A light will come on on the RX-4 and you should hear a hiss or rumble of a Diesel. Turn the Controller and away she goes. You can Stop the Loco or leave it running and see what F1-6 gives you, they will be the same as if you are driving on a DCC System. That is it pretty seamless and can only add to your enjoyment, now enjoy running with no Track Cleaning.
This is a 2.4GHz System with a claimed range of 800 metres. It is already advertised on the Fosworks site so I will not do any pricing information here as these things can change.
I must complete this review by saying that I have no connection with Fosworks other than being a satisfied customer.
Finally. There is also the possibility to use a Viper with this setup which one needs one to match the Driving Speed with the sounds of the Chips. Frankly I have not tested this and I may get round to it in the near future.
I also asked about Amps Rating and will get back when I have a reply. But for the moment I would think that all LGB Locomotives should be fine,mit may be a bit limited if one were trying to hook up one or two lumpy USA Locomotives via the same chio.
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