My Aristocraft C-16 completely stops occasionally for no apparent reason...

OK, it stopped again. I checked all drive wheels and all 8 were in the correct position so no wheel slippage. I was going 16 for speed as Bob noted, but I had not been running all that long (appx. 20 minutes) and it is a nice but certainly not hot day (65 f), and I believe I have been going slower when it stopped in the past. Maybe the heat you refer to Bob is all electronic and internal. Also, my T5000 Throttle is a brand new unit.
This is how it went: after the locomotive stopped I immediately shut down the throttle and then, just to test it (and having checked the wheels for relative position) , I increased the throttle, but it did not move so I took the throttle back to zero, reversed the direction and, also testing, I moved in reverse the slightest amount possible. Then back to zero, and direction changed to forward and away she went as though nothing ever happened.
 
OK, it stopped again. I checked all drive wheels and all 8 were in the correct position so no wheel slippage. I was going 16 for speed as Bob noted, but I had not been running all that long (appx. 20 minutes) and it is a nice but certainly not hot day (65 f), and I believe I have been going slower when it stopped in the past. Maybe the heat you refer to Bob is all electronic and internal. Also, my T5000 Throttle is a brand new unit.
This is how it went: after the locomotive stopped I immediately shut down the throttle and then, just to test it (and having checked the wheels for relative position) , I increased the throttle, but it did not move so I took the throttle back to zero, reversed the direction and, also testing, I moved in reverse the slightest amount possible. Then back to zero, and direction changed to forward and away she went as though nothing ever happened.
my unit came with an early phoenix sound board and track power. I added an older G2 board from e-bay and mounted it circuit board up to the coal load. I only have my problem if i run it harder. You might try pulling your coal load to allow more air. eliminate the variables. Just an idea. boB
 
Very strange behavior but seems to be in the electronics, the only thing I could suggest is probably impractical, which would be to put an ammeter in line with the motor leads and see if the current drawn is excessive.

I definitely would try minibob's suggestion first. What voltage and amp hours is your battery pack.

Greg
 
Very strange behavior but seems to be in the electronics, the only thing I could suggest is probably impractical, which would be to put an ammeter in line with the motor leads and see if the current drawn is excessive.

I definitely would try minibob's suggestion first. What voltage and amp hours is your battery pack.

Greg
i realize question not for me but i'm 14.8v 6800a hr boB
 
The battery pack I used today 14.8V and 4.4 a h, but it stopped just the same with another similar battery pack as well.
 
i realize question not for me but i'm 14.8v 6800a hr boB
So, did you have stoppages like I have with that battery pack?

I will try letting some air in there.

Here is another suggestion I received, but I wasn't sure exactly how to get in there so I haven't done this: Check the lube on the large gear hub on the back end of the shaft. The gear presses on the housing in forward.
Any thoughts on this?
 
It does sound like putting the loco in reverse is releasing something. Is it an easy job to remove the motor from the gearbox and try it
 
It does sound like putting the loco in reverse is releasing something. Is it an easy job to remove the motor from the gearbox and try it
Can you give me some pointers regarding disassembly? I'm not quite sure of how to start the process of getting in there.
 
Can you give me some pointers regarding disassembly? I'm not quite sure of how to start the process of getting in there.
I'm afraid not, my knowledge of dissambling locos is minimal! I just made the suggestion as a general observation, but I'm sure Greg or some knowledgable will be able to help
 
Umm, the second version of the C16, which you have, has a belt drive, no lubrication.

The first version has a different drivetrain, with a big gear on the end of the motor block.

This is why I asked early on.

I can mail you an exploded diagram, so please verify again that you have the belt drive one, Also the part numbers are different 80100 and 80200, also the new version has a socket in the tender (2 thin black connectors on the circuit board)

Here's a page on the original version:

Here's a page on the new version:

So email me and I will send you an exploded diagram, which should help you disassemble it.

I know you believe you have the new version, but I suspect maybe it is an old one.

Greg
 
Can you give me some pointers regarding disassembly? I'm not quite sure of how to start the process of getting in there.
Umm, the second version of the C16, which you have, has a belt drive, no lubrication.

The first version has a different drivetrain, with a big gear on the end of the motor block.

This is why I asked early on.

I can mail you an exploded diagram, so please verify again that you have the belt drive one, Also the part numbers are different 80100 and 80200, also the new version has a socket in the tender (2 thin black connectors on the circuit board)

Here's a page on the original version:

Here's a page on the new version:

So email me and I will send you an exploded diagram, which should help you disassemble it.

I know you believe you have the new version, but I suspect maybe it is an old one.

Greg
It's pretty easy to tell the difference at a glance - plastic or metal motion rods ?

Plastic - early chassis

Metal - later chassis
 
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