Massoth eMotion XLS headlights/cab light blink when running analog

rentren

rentren

LGB - Viafier Retica Wälderbähnle Rheinbähnle
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All my LGB oldies are 20+ years old, I do not mean to get into dcc.
Recently I acquired a used LGB 2045, the RhB Ge 2/4. Seller didn't mention that it was fitted with Massoth, thought I'd take it for granted, I guess. He must've run it under digital control for under analog control it runs with headlights and driver's cab light flashing madly.
In order to deal with the Massoth eMotion XLS decoder I obtained additionally LGB 55005 MTS and LGB remote 55015 with 'Bus' and 'Programmer'. Only, I have no clue how to reprogram the Massoth thing. I do have manuals for both the eMotion XLS and the LGB remote, but that's not enough for me to clue in.
- I do not want light in the driver's cab (RhB electric engines are operated with darkened cabs at night unlike steam engines);
- certainly no blinking head lights;
- prefer lower engine noise;
- would like to retain compressor and whistle. But how to trigger under analog control? Would I need magnets?
And btw the whistle sounding at this time maybe otr than Massoth sound file. It is not like RhB Ge 2/4 but to change that feels to me like rocket science ...
Don't hesitate to tell me that my level of inexperience makes it not recommendable to tinker on my own. However, I live rather remote there are no G Scale modellers nearby. If need be, I'd simply 'pull the plug(s) on the Massoth device to get rid of unwanted blink-blink nonsense and suffer the consequence of an item bare of special effects.
Simple motion comes before fancy eMotion :-)
 
Pulling the plugs will probably stop everything. I would suggest you find a friend with DCC and ask their help. Alternatively, a trader such as P&H Hobbies of York will help.
 
Hello Rentren,
P&S will not be a lot of help, as you are in Canada..

You will need to change a few CV values, to get what you want from the decoder.
As you have not done this before, it would be better if, post Flu restrictions, you could visit another modeller who knows a little more about DCC..

For the cab-light, simplest is to just remove the bulb.

I would guess the flashing headlights are a speed-step problem?

There are connections you can use with reed switches under the loco, and magnets in the track. - Reeds in the motor-block might be fitted, but are available for you to fit, if not.
Again, the sounds that are triggered are set by changing CV values.

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
Hello Rentren,
P&S will not be a lot of help, as you are in Canada..

You will need to change a few CV values, to get what you want from the decoder.
As you have not done this before, it would be better if, post Flu restrictions, you could visit another modeller who knows a little more about DCC..

For the cab-light, simplest is to just remove the bulb.

I would guess the flashing headlights are a speed-step problem?

There are connections you can use with reed switches under the loco, and magnets in the track. - Reeds in the motor-block might be fitted, but are available for you to fit, if not.
Again, the sounds that are triggered are set by changing CV values.

PhilP.
Click to expand...
Oops, missed the Canada bit. Speed steps should not make the lights flash under analogue control. Actually, I'm not sure what the problem is - could be an overload and a current limiter cutting in and out.
 
stockers said:
Pulling the plugs will probably stop everything. I would suggest you find a friend with DCC and ask their help. Alternatively, a trader such as P&H Hobbies of York will help.
Click to expand...
Well, I'm in the Central Kootenay Mountains of BC upon the Lake with same name. Be it a dealer or a G scale modeller, they're likely half a days drive away. And yes, pulling the plug for light and speaker render the engine silent and lightless but she runs!
 
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PhilP said:
Hello Rentren,
P&S will not be a lot of help, as you are in Canada..

You will need to change a few CV values, to get what you want from the decoder.
As you have not done this before, it would be better if, post Flu restrictions, you could visit another modeller who knows a little more about DCC..

For the cab-light, simplest is to just remove the bulb.

I would guess the flashing headlights are a speed-step problem?

There are connections you can use with reed switches under the loco, and magnets in the track. - Reeds in the motor-block might be fitted, but are available for you to fit, if not.
Again, the sounds that are triggered are set by changing CV values.

PhilP.
Click to expand...
To get at the cab light isn't just lifting the roof off the Ge 2/4, thought about it, didn't want to proceed, so I pulled plugs for lights on decoder.
So, fixes involve CV changes and that's where the knowledgeable but inexistent G scale modeller acquaintance comes in. Maybe by summer some meetings (in person) allow for modeller meets (Kamloops e.g.) and then I hang a Help! sign around my neck :) TNX for input!
 
stockers said:
Oops, missed the Canada bit. Speed steps should not make the lights flash under analogue control. Actually, I'm not sure what the problem is - could be an overload and a current limiter cutting in and out.
Click to expand...
Alan, here comes my next hurdle: lingo! Not only no idea about dcc, not much knowledge of terminology either, much less the concept aimed at. There are very valid reasons for me to stay with analog (toss in my age! One more year surviving Flu and I'm headed for 8-zero). And TNX for input, makes it clear that issues aren't trivial. So, keep on pulling them plugs, eh?!
 
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rentren said:
Alan, here comes my next hurdle: lingo! Not only no idea about dcc, not much knowledge of terminology either, much less the concept aimed at. There are vey valid reasons for me to stay with analog (toss in my age! One more year surviving Flu and I'm headed for 8-zero). And TNX for input, makes it clear that issues aren't trivial. So, keep on pulling them plugs, eh?!
Click to expand...
Analogue is good but so is DCC. As for Flu, I hope you get your jab soon.
To me DCC is part of the hobby. It usually works but can be entertaining (if frustrating) when it doesn't. I agree, if the frustration is not worth it - stick with analogue, it works.
 
Being ignorant of where you are, I had a little Google...
You are definitely 'far away' (a reference to a sketch, in a UK comedy series).

If pulling the plugs has fixed the 'itch', then well-done you. :)
 
stockers said:
Analogue is good but so is DCC. As for Flu, I hope you get your jab soon.
To me DCC is part of the hobby. It usually works but can be entertaining (if frustrating) when it doesn't. I agree, if the frustration is not worth it - stick with analogue, it works.
Click to expand...
And that's another point! I'm happy with my analog controllers (with momentum and break), I'm not very keen to engage with that other hobby, dcc. I was disappointed how poorly the Ge 2/4 with Massoth was programmed. Speeds are clumsily realized, while my recently added MRC TECH 3 PowerCommand does a very nice job.
When after decades I started railroadin' again last year, it was simply the fun of running these things and very little embellishment of any sort. You can see the beginnings here and more directly this here, complete with my own sound from Ilanz/Glion (when visiting Svizra it's in the Grisons where I hail from). The station announcement is in German, English and Romansh.
So, railroadin' is going on a nostalgia trip (both my grandfathers had connection railways, and both at times with Rhätische Bahn/RhB).
However, where we live in the Kootenays is right along a given up rail bed (partly on our lil' piece of real estate); formerly 3ft narrow gauge Kaslo & Slocan, then normal gauge CPR. All given up early 50s, Lake steamers too.Last one, Moyie, 1958 or so. Serves now as museum/heritage site in Kaslo.
 
PhilP said:
Being ignorant of where you are, I had a little Google...
You are definitely 'far away' (a reference to a sketch, in a UK comedy series).

If pulling the plugs has fixed the 'itch', then well-done you. :)
Click to expand...
Yep, da boonies. However, Kaslo rates, and I quote, as "Prettiest Village of BC" (BC tourism promoters). Mineral exploitation brought trains and lake steamers to the area late in the 19th. cent. All history by now and for more than half a century. Also, the Grisons are far, out of reach right now due to travel restrictions. So, I bring a brew into the yard (under the deck) and let the never realized railroad run between Landeck (Tyrol, Austria) and Schuls/Scuol (Grisons, Switzerland). My big station is Ramosch and newly ideas are floated to yet link that area of the Retian Triangle with train lines linking the Grisons with North (AT) and South (IT) Tyrol.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Yep, pull the decoder out, if you want some lighting effects, learning diodes and LEDs is easier.

Greg
Click to expand...
It's more the current lighting effect (blinking) that I don't want when the engine is under analog control. However, I check into diodes and ideas. My sound effects will be literally 'stationary', they are installed in a station, and things feel lively enough! - TNX for your input.
 
Right, disconnect the lights from the decoder, and wire them to the track pickups with a diode and resistor in line, then you can have directional lighting, although perhaps there is a common lead that might make you open the loco.

In any case, a DC loco with LEDs off the track pickups is way easier than you learning DCC, which you have stated several times you don't want to do.

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Right, disconnect the lights from the decoder, and wire them to the track pickups with a diode and resistor in line, then you can have directional lighting, although perhaps there is a common lead that might make you open the loco.

In any case, a DC loco with LEDs off the track pickups is way easier than you learning DCC, which you have stated several times you don't want to do.

Greg
Click to expand...
Track pickup, diode & resistor taken note of.
Going dcc would imply altering two Stainz, one 'Kleine Dicke', one U40/Zillertal and a steam tramway (all models 1999 or earlier). And all of those alterations with little knowledge or else shipping it off, then pay a big bill ...unless I keep it analog. I try to avoid a hybrid system.
LGB literature (55015 remote) does talk of analog operation including some sound effects and no word of a particular lighting problem. Makes me conjecture that lights can be stopped from blinking but likely CV change needed.
Anyway, thanks for pointing out alternatives!
 
Analog operation on a DCC system is a modification of the basic DCC wave form, which is normally a symmetric square wave of variable duration. Change the duration and saymmetry and you have square wave pulses that are more positive than negative.... sort of works, makes noisy motors, contributes to motor heating... not a good idea... most manufacturers have abandoned this option.

Greg
 
Greg,
Might the 'MRC Tech power command' be causing the decoder some problems? - Not a piece of kit I know..
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Analog operation on a DCC system is a modification of the basic DCC wave form, which is normally a symmetric square wave of variable duration. Change the duration and saymmetry and you have square wave pulses that are more positive than negative.... sort of works, makes noisy motors, contributes to motor heating... not a good idea... most manufacturers have abandoned this option.

Greg
Click to expand...
Yes, LGB talks of motor hum (and remains quiet on heating). Veering away from this option will have reasons, I take it.
 
PhilP said:
Greg,
Might the 'MRC Tech power command' be causing the decoder some problems? - Not a piece of kit I know..
Click to expand...
Let me jump in; I corresponded with MRC and they said the AC off that power pack/controller is fine to feed into LGB's MTS, no pulse stuff (and forgive my 'stuff' qualifier). I took their word for reliable. I best look for an unaltered LGB 2045 and sell mine with the Massoth decoder, the MTS II and universal remote and be back fully in the analog past. I feel more at home.
 
The ac output from the MRC pack can be used as input to the MTS system, the MTS system then takes that sinusoidal AC input and produces the square wave DCC output for the track.

Not sure where the confusion was, the MTS system with "address 0" produces a bastardized DCC waveform that can sort of drive an analog loco...

I agree, sell the DCC stuff and stay analog, you sound happy with the performance of your other locos with the MRC controller.

Greg
 
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