Lubricating kit-built axles

O

Old Tom

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It's probably been mentioned before but a timely reminder won't come amiss! :bigsmile:

The IP Engineering carriages I built last year got their first outing today and the de-railments were something to behold :o:

The problem was traced to the fact that the grease I'd used on the axles had become the consistancy of soft toffee. I'd used a stock item that I had already - it was from a tube of 'shaft lubricant' that came with a boat model I built - which I guess was passed it's sell-by date. So I've just spent an hour cleaning the old stuff off and re-lubing with a quality, light machine oil.

Moral of the story: Use quality lubricants!

Just for the sake of having a photo (and it makes the thread nicer to look at :rolf: ), here's one of the kits I'm talking about...

coachandcaradoc005.jpg
 
I've found not a lot wrong with good-old (new) engine oil. It stays put and doesn't dry away, and is light enough not to create drag. I did experiments a while back with a few of different oils on some LGB stock and that came out the best.:thumbup:
 
Powdered graphite for locks works well:thumbup:
 
bobg said:
I've found not a lot wrong with good-old (new) engine oil. It stays put and doesn't dry away, and is light enough not to create drag. I did experiments a while back with a few of different oils on some LGB stock and that came out the best.:clap:
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I would advise caution trying to use engine oil .
It attacks plastic , it is something that has been cropping up for at least the past 15 years .
I have had friends come to me for advice on how to stop the cracking , but it's too late by then . LGB stuff suffers just the same as other plastic items . I used Copperslip before I got the Lube Set , that's conductive and used in small dabs is OK .
Similarly , people use vegetable oil . Don't , it dries over time causing a nasty mucky cleaning job .
I cannot understand why people buy a relatively expensive model and skimp on maintenance items .
Sat in front of me at the moment is a pack of "Hob-E-Lube" containing seven tubes of oils and greases aimed at modelling .
It's made by Woodland Scenics , and used correctly (miserly) you will not need to fork out for it often . There are little tubes for accessing awkward bits , and this helps to avoid over-lubricating . I have had the set for many years and it is still half full .
Of course , the law of sod says it's no longer available . I dunno , and can't be bothered to look .
Careful use of automatic transmission fluid works ok too .
In the case of the slope tender above , I would use pickups on the tyres , or the LGB opposed pickups . Spending a lot of time sorting bad designs can be counter productive . Starting again from scratch can be quite satisfying .
Try it .

Mike
 
I've been using engine oil on my stock now for about 7 years and have seen no problem. I believe it is mineral and not synthetic, but I no longer have the original container to check.
 
Nah, I'll back the Hob-e-lube set. Not the cheapest, but there's an oil / grease / graphite for any situation and they're all plastic friendly :nod::nod::nod::nod:
 
Hob-e-lube set is still available..
Got a set about three months ago..
 
GAP said:
Plus 1 for the graphite I never use a liquid oil semi solid lubricant on my rolling stocks axles and boxes and have not had a problem so far.
Click to expand...
It's all in the Hob-e-lube pack :nod::nod::nod::nod::nod:
 
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