Looking into 3D printing.....

Mark Janzen

G Scale Layout
18 Jan 2023
10
0
65
Roseville, CA
Best answers
0
Country flag
I can not longer deal with the long development/prototyping/printing cycle with my son who lives 6 states away and uses a Purse MK3. He can't use ASA/ABS because he can not exhaust printer appropriately. I'm very much a novice and am looking for feedback on my current plan.

I'm looking to purchasing a Prusa MK4 kit with a multi-color printing (MMU3) option and enclosure. I plan to use ASA or ASB filaments and an enclosure with exhausting fan in garage. I intend to use the printed objects for train/building/etc parts. These objects will be outside in the sun on my G Scale layout. Since my painting ability is not so good, I intend to use different colors instead of painting. I current use TinkerCAD and am looking into using Fusion 360.
Thanks for your advice......
Mark
 

Paul M

Registered
25 Oct 2016
11,944
1,708
61
Royston
Best answers
0
Country flag
Mark, you will get lots of advice about 3D printing and printers on here! But can I just say that practice makes perfect, so if you think your painting isn't up to par, all you need to do is practice. And of course, if it goes pear shaped, you can always do a repaint. After a fairly short while outside the weather will hide any errors anyway!
 

Gerard

Registered
26 Mar 2021
126
16
74
Aerdenhout Holland
Best answers
0
Country flag
Mark,
I am using a simple extrusion printer.
By doing I learned 5 basic rules:
1 Always clean the base plate using a bit of alcohol on a small piece of cloth
2 Prior to each print job quickly rubb a very little amount of Printafix on a small piece of cloth over the base plate. Don't spay it cause that will result in too much spray.
3 When you have a relative high structure in reference of the extension of the base shape on the base plate than in order to improve the fixation to the base plate you can choose to print an extra starting layer around the base of your construction.
4 Depending on your design you have to choose which direction of your construction has to be strong and choose that direction as horizontal print causing continuous printmaterial in that direction.
So when printing a long slender construction never print it vertically on your base plate, the very small layers of filament will not bind together well and will break off sooner or later!
5 Try to prevent as much as possible the building up of printing support structures. These structures are needed when your design has a lack of support (to say it otherwise:: printing in the air is impossible)
This means that you must prevent too steep (about >30 degrees off vertical) overhanging parts.
I hope this will help you!
Below an example of a light tower I scaled up from HO to LGB scale and than devide the design in 4 sides flat printed later to be glued together.
HO print:
3 half sides of light tower scale HO.jpg
Gscale print:
3 halve side light tower G scale.jpg

Foto HO tower:
LGB Lichttoren HO schaal .JPG

G scale and HO scale towers.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Mark Janzen

G Scale Layout
18 Jan 2023
10
0
65
Roseville, CA
Best answers
0
Country flag
Thx very much for the insights!!!!
 

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane trains
14 Jun 2011
4,063
947
Bundaberg Queensland, Australia
Country
Australia
ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com
Best answers
0
Country flag
If you have to use supports, mine are set at 45 degrees, the default in my slicer Cura, I recommend using the "Trees" option that is in the slicer, they save a lot of filament, reduce print time noticeably and are easily removed with very little residue marks on the model.
For bed adhesion I used cheap hairspray for the first time a week ago and it improved my adhesion markedly; it is basically the same as Printafix, which is only sold in Europe and is not available in Australia (found from my searches for it on the net).
I use tinkercad but I find most of my models using either "Yeggi or "STL Finder".
 

Trent

Registered
5 Feb 2020
21
4
58
Massachusetts
Best answers
0
Country flag
A great place to start is Thingaverse - lots of existing proven designs that you can simply print to dial in your process.
 

Gerard

Registered
26 Mar 2021
126
16
74
Aerdenhout Holland
Best answers
0
Country flag
If you have to use supports, mine are set at 45 degrees, the default in my slicer Cura, I recommend using the "Trees" option that is in the slicer, they save a lot of filament, reduce print time noticeably and are easily removed with very little residue marks on the model.
For bed adhesion I used cheap hairspray for the first time a week ago and it improved my adhesion markedly; it is basically the same as Printafix, which is only sold in Europe and is not available in Australia (found from my searches for it on the net).
I use tinkercad but I find most of my models using either "Yeggi or "STL Finder".
Can you help me by being a bit more specific in how to set this TREES option correctly so it uses as less as possible material?
There are so many optional choices, which options do i have to choose?
 

GAP

G Scale Trains, HO Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane trains
14 Jun 2011
4,063
947
Bundaberg Queensland, Australia
Country
Australia
ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com
Best answers
0
Country flag
Can you help me by being a bit more specific in how to set this TREES option correctly so it uses as less as possible material?
There are so many optional choices, which options do i have to choose?
In Cura; Printer Settings, select Support, there is a drop down next to Support Structure that gives a choice of either Normal or Tree, select Tree.

1706390779193.png
These are the support settings I use.

1706391149075.png

These are the Cura settings I use as a guide.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user