Lift out section rail connectors

Sorry for butting in here, but on the adjustable LGB track sections, how does the actual rail lengthen and shorten itself? Is it sort of telescopic or something?
Cheers,
Steven
 
My little solution provided you have the track approaches to your bridging point on some sort of base that you can secure track to and knock a couple of nails in.
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At one bridge track end grind out the base of the rails at the join, about 2cm. At the end of the approach track, where these are going to join the bridge end you have ground out only, solder in a pin on to the outside of both rails, protuding 2cm. Make sure they make firm contact with the rails they are going to mate with. Smear on a little LGB graphite paste or "Copper Grease" to ensure long term electrical conductivity. Use a couple of large cable clips to hold down the first sleeper on the lift out section when in place. At t'other end a couple of regular track joiners. Aproach rails must be firmly located to some form of imovable track bed.

Fit the lift out track joiner end first then secure at the other end with the cable clips over the sleeper. It works for me.
Max.
 
Cyclone said:
GRC do some connectors but they're 14 quid a pair.

http://www.gardenrailwaycentres.info/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=534 < Link To http://www.gardenrailwayc...viewProd&productId=534

I don't really want to pay this, and I don't have track power.

Any one got a cheaper solution?
Click to expand...

Yes. Take a standard brass rail joiner and saw off the lip which fits into a slot in the sleepers to keep it from moving. Now saw the joiner in half (start on the flat bit!). Voila: two sliding joiners which will keep your track in alignment and - if required - supply power too. Repeat for other end of lift-out section. See the attached pictures:
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3693b88b1ced4e3fae0d4d2c7bdfa0a8.jpg
 
Steven.T said:
Sorry for butting in here, but on the adjustable LGB track sections, how does the actual rail lengthen and shorten itself? Is it sort of telescopic or something?
Cheers,
Steven
Click to expand...
It's quite clever!

If you look at the attached picture, the web of the rail is cut away for 22 mm on the extended track piece. A rack and pinion mechanism extends or shortens the sleeper base....

f60644b6755e41cea29311c37c7de24e.jpg
 
The pictures above don't really show the full answer very clearly, unless you look very closely and know what you are looking for! As far as I can recall (I've got a couple of these somewhere, but they're in a box and I can't lay my hand on one right now!) one rail section is hollow - actually a folded brass shaping - and slides over the other bit of normal solid rail - so yes, the short answer is they ARE basically telescopic!

Jon.
 
ef0183066d98431bb311a2eaf81168e6.jpg
try this its cheap and cheerfull and fooll proof
put a couple of lgb fishplates onto a bit of spare track
solder them to a small piece of copper one side paxolin
then remove the copper from between them if you need track power
next re space the sleepers on the bridge to allow the fish to
slide back on to the rail so as to just clear the end of the rail
and there you have it foolproof sliding rail joiners
heres a pic of mine six or more years in use and never failed yet
ef0183066d98431bb311a2eaf81168e6.jpg
0a07a7a117c9439aa6add1f275d14e50.jpg
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Ed,
I wasn't aware that there were special rail clamps for lift out bridges!
I simply use two ordinary Hillman rail clamps at each end which are not tightened completely so they can be slid back off the rails easily. They make sure the rail ends are aligned.
Steve
29f17ba260124fbf8c7e2d13ed52b4b1.jpg
f5313d67bbb247c3bb576aebf493a2f9.jpg
 
Hillman do a bridge lifting clamp, not sure how much they cost. Have these on two lifting bridges with track power. never been touched or cleaned since i put them in.
 
whatlep said:
Cyclone said:
GRC do some connectors but they're 14 quid a pair.

http://www.gardenrailwaycentres.info/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=534 < Link To http://www.gardenrailwayc...viewProd&productId=534

I don't really want to pay this, and I don't have track power.

Any one got a cheaper solution?
Click to expand...

Yes. Take a standard brass rail joiner and saw off the lip which fits into a slot in the sleepers to keep it from moving. Now saw the joiner in half (start on the flat bit!). Voila: two sliding joiners which will keep your track in alignment and - if required - supply power too. Repeat for other end of lift-out section. See the attached pictures:
images

images
Click to expand...
That is one of the best bit of track engineering solutions I've seen, OK I realise lots of you have already seen/thoughtup/used this idea, but I just think this is brilliant. Too bad most of my track is laid but if I ever have to do more this is top class stuff
 
Yes. Take a standard brass rail joiner and saw off the lip which fits into a slot in the sleepers to keep it from moving. Now saw the joiner in half (start on the flat bit!). Voila: two sliding joiners which will keep your track in alignment and - if required - supply power too. Repeat for other end of lift-out section. See the attached pictures:



-----------------------------------------------------------


Ciao! Hi,
I'm really interest in this solution... can you put more photos from any side? and how you bild it?

Thanks

Aldo (Milano, Italy!)
 
Thanks for the answer But I will want if possible information and more picture of the solution of message below!

Aldo
 
whatlep said:

Yes. Take a standard brass rail joiner and saw off the lip which fits into a slot in the sleepers to keep it from moving. Now saw the joiner in half (start on the flat bit!). Voila: two sliding joiners which will keep your track in alignment and - if required - supply power too. Repeat for other end of lift-out section. See the attached pictures:
images

images
Click to expand...


I need if possible more information around this solution!!!

thanks

Aldo

ps sorry for my confusion to use this forum... is the first time!!!
 
salvealdo said:
whatlep said:

Yes. Take a standard brass rail joiner and saw off the lip which fits into a slot in the sleepers to keep it from moving. Now saw the joiner in half (start on the flat bit!). Voila: two sliding joiners which will keep your track in alignment and - if required - supply power too. Repeat for other end of lift-out section. See the attached pictures:
Click to expand...


I need if possible more information around this solution!!!

thanks
Aldo
Click to expand...
Ciao Aldo

It is very simple. I simply cut pieces of wood to the correct size for the bridge piece and the piece next to it. It's important that the wood used underneath on both pieces is the same size to keep everything level. The two pieces of wood are then joined by two pieces of wood on top. This keeps everything in the right place for laying track and gives the height needed for the hinged joint. You can see the wood and hinges in the next picture:
4bb319f99bb8464f8fbad104f75b1857.jpg

Track is then laid across the bridge (or lift out section) and pinned in place firmly either side of both joints. Next, cut the two pieces of wood on which the hinges will sit EXACTLY where the join will be. Then install the hinges. Now cut the track at the two ends of the bridge and check that it moves smoothly on the hinges. The last thing to do is install the joiners as described in my first post. Voila! You have a nicely hinged bridge with connectors at each end. QED.

Hope that this explains things OK.
 
I bought a pair of those very well made (Expensive) Hillman clamps, they work well. But, being me I thought I could make something that worked as well. As I am all onboard battery powered, I didn't need the connectivity. It would be easy to make it so though. All I did was to buy a length of 1/2 inch brass angle from B&Q, braze an inch length to each side of the permanent rail, so that the non permanent rail just dropped in. Works a treat.
 
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