funandtrains
Registered
Does anyone have a spare set of lift bridge rail clamps? I not sure who makes them but I've been told they exist! Is there a UK shop that stocks them?
Lift-out bridge rail clamps
- Thread starter funandtrains
- Start date
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
They were Hillman clamps sold it seems exclusively by Glendale Junction who have retired / ceased trading. There was a thread about this recently and no-one was able to suggest an alternative supplier then, maybe someone has looked harder since! 
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
I think it's just that Glendale had the last stocks of Hillman clamps.They were Hillman clamps sold it seems exclusively by Glendale Junction who have retired / ceased trading. There was a thread about this recently and no-one was able to suggest an alternative supplier then, maybe someone has looked harder since!
There is an alternative, which isn't quite as instant lift-out as the Hillman offering, but some Accucraft clamps are split on one side, so you can undo half the clamp and lift out a section while the clamp stays in place connected to the remainder of the track (that's what I use, simply because I had the Accy clamps at the time).
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
I always understood that the ones Brian stocked were some he had specially made, as a close copy of the original Hillman design.... I have no idea what would have happened to any remaining stock after his retirement - maybe somebody still has contact with him and could find out whether he has a box of them sitting around somewhere, or perhaps they all got sold off during his pre-retirement clearance.....?
Jon.
Jon.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
You can get the Split Jaw ones still, but they are quitting business soon, so order them right away.
ebay mike
Retired, but still hoarding. (GOF)
Conversation started Steve.
funandtrains
Registered
Good idea!
Greg Elmassian
Guest
Just for reference, I prefer the Hillman bridge clamps myself, but very scarce:
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
As an alternative to a conventional bridge clamp I soldered correctly aligned and positioned short lengths of 2mm ID brass tube to to the outside edge of each rail on a section of track wnere I wanted to create a lift out joint. I then cut the rails, in situ with a hack saw, at mid point on the soldered on brass tubes to create that join point. So now I have 2 perfectly aligned rail locators, soldered onto the rails into which I can then insert 2 x 2 mm quick and easy to remove, though secure, L shaped "keys" to hold the rails in alignment and conduct the track power (lubricated/protected with a bit of graphite paste). It was a solution I came up with when I had to cut a set of GRS made 6ft radius points that are located off one end of a removable bridge. Remaking the track geometry to avoid the issue was not an option. A pair of Glendale's Hillman knock off's are at the other end. Max
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ebay mike
Retired, but still hoarding. (GOF)
After consultation with Steve and inspired by Greg's photo I convinced myself I could knock some up - so here goes.
I don't know who produced the donor clamps but they seemed the most suitable donors from my box of tricks. I made a small brass spacer to fit between the two halves at the drop in end to prevent nipping up too much. The rail is then a snug push-fit. Hopefully the photos will be self-explanatory. I realise it ain't pretty, but it was just an experiment. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
I don't know who produced the donor clamps but they seemed the most suitable donors from my box of tricks. I made a small brass spacer to fit between the two halves at the drop in end to prevent nipping up too much. The rail is then a snug push-fit. Hopefully the photos will be self-explanatory. I realise it ain't pretty, but it was just an experiment. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
Ralphmp
Registered
An alternative approach could be to use Massoth / GRS style rail clamps - see pic 
These clip to the rail on one side and then use 2 screws that clamp down on the other. To remove rails from one side of these clamps - e.g. to lift out points (switches) for maintenance - you simply remove the screw holding the rail to be released and just move the rail end outward slightly before lifting it away from the clamp. Refitting is the reverse. Only potential drawback is to avoid losing the screws when you take them out!
I did have some of Glendale's bridge clamps but found them a real pain to use - they wouldn't hold the track in alignment and they never were "lift out". I eventually gave up trying to get them to function "as described" and switched to the normal Massoth / GRS clamps which I've used throughout my layout.
These clip to the rail on one side and then use 2 screws that clamp down on the other. To remove rails from one side of these clamps - e.g. to lift out points (switches) for maintenance - you simply remove the screw holding the rail to be released and just move the rail end outward slightly before lifting it away from the clamp. Refitting is the reverse. Only potential drawback is to avoid losing the screws when you take them out!
I did have some of Glendale's bridge clamps but found them a real pain to use - they wouldn't hold the track in alignment and they never were "lift out". I eventually gave up trying to get them to function "as described" and switched to the normal Massoth / GRS clamps which I've used throughout my layout.
Perry
Registered
On my layout I have a hinged bridge. There are gaps of two inches between rail ends which are filled with short lengths of rail, secured in place with easy to slide fishplates. Push the fishplates onto the rails (either direction), remove the short lengths & raise bridge. I'm confident that would work for a lift out bridge as well.
I had to know. The name fishplate is derived from fish, a wooden bar with a curved profile used to strengthen a ship's mast. Fishplate - Wikipedia
I had to know. The name fishplate is derived from fish, a wooden bar with a curved profile used to strengthen a ship's mast. Fishplate - Wikipedia
Pretty sure they are Hillman Clamps the not over Fishplate ones. Plenty of these about in UK that appear in small lots now and again at Sows and EBAY. Nice credible alternative solution. Gives the non check book modeller something to think about.
Strange that you find the Hillman/Glendale Ones a Problem. Been using them around 6 years on my liftout flap to one of my sheds with no issues at all. Well once I got them setup properly that is. Ball bearing needs to be just tight enough to allow retention but not so tight that the Rail will not slot in it with ease.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
The adjustment on both the hillmans and the split jaw bridge clamps often needs to be set, with slight variations in the width of the base of the rail, you can see the spring loaded ball that retains the rail, and the outboard side has a screw slot.
Once set it normally works very well. Having more support for the rail, the hillmans work better in my opinion.. I have both, and I have several lift out sections.
Greg
Once set it normally works very well. Having more support for the rail, the hillmans work better in my opinion.. I have both, and I have several lift out sections.
Greg
Ralphmp
Registered
Ball bearing? What ball bearing?!! None of the 4 I purchased from Glendale had any ball bearings in them. Probably explains why I had difficulty in getting them to work! As Homer S would say, D'OH!!!!
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
The Glendale versions seem to use a slotted set screws either side with a pointed end to fulfill the function of the ball bearings. At least the pair I have do. An odd alternative to a spring loaded ball bearing I think. You either mess around screwing and unscrewing the set screws, when bridge removal is required, to provide positive and secure location for the track or you rely that your bridge end foundations/pads are level and secure and you don't accidently kick the bridge. Don't ask me how I know. Max