LGB Track Geometry

[TONYWARD50]

Hi, everyone.
Having amassed a collection of LGB Track I want to plan a passing loop. I have Radius 3 points and radius 2 curves, but I can't seem to find any diagrams to show me what sections of straight track I will need to complete the loop. I have 600mm and a few 300 mm but don't know how best I can fit these in, and whether I need some smaller sections. Can anyone point me in the right direction or suggest somewhere I can find track geometry for LGB ?

 

[Gizzy]

Hullo Tony,

I would use this software from ANYRAIL to plan building your layout. It has an LGB library and is free to use if you use less tha 50 pieces of track.

http://www.anyrail.com/index_en.html

One thing I will point out, R2 curves are 30 degrees and 12 to a circle, where as your R3 points (and curves) are 22.5 degrees or 16 to a circle.

So I would change the R2 Curves for R3 ones if possible....

 

[stevedenver]

well from a rather weak mind and memory........
and assuming a siding on a straight (not off of curve) 

to create a passing siding with R3 points on the straight-as i have done-
for years 

you will need R3 to bring the track back from the turn out to parallel the mainline straight

and as it recall-this can be done using the standard 300mm straights

it seems that i recall that while the r 3curves are longer-like 150mm-things even out using a certain-odd or even number of 300mm on the siding as compared to the comparable number of 300mm on the main-

so for example if you have 6x300 between the straight  ends of the points  on the main-you may need 2x R3 + 5x300mm on the siding-

one thing im certain about-i have never needed odd sized lengths to do this-and the fit is adequate-  

i have mixed R2 and R3 on 180 degree corners and -it can be done but the track isnt tight and perfectly correct and aligned-things will run-almost fine -but it just doesnt fit-id think flex track would do it the best-im not sure id do this for a permanent layout-

hope that helps

the basic geometry is set out in almost every LGB catalog just before teh section listing offered track-theres usually a multi colored diagram-

the ultimate is the overpriced track planning template offered by LGB-even more insultingly priced by marklin-latest version is yellow-older versions were green

 

[ntpntpntp]

Here's a link to the LGB geometry diagram on the LGB site:
http://mediencms.maerklin.de/media.php/de/produkte/sondereditionen/lgb-tracksystem-160_large.jpg

This is the same one that appears in the big old LGB catalogues.

to be honest though, even looking at the geometry diagram doesn't make it obvious how you'd create your loop with a mixture of R2 curves and R3 points. If it were me I'd use R3 curves to match the points, as has been suggested above.

Seems to me your best bet is simply to lay out the pieces of track to the length of loop you want, allow one piece of straight to overlap and then cut that one piece to fit. You should be able to measure and judge the size of piece required and it *should* match a combination of the small piece that LGB make, but I think those small pieces are way overpriced so just cut a 300mm straight down!

Nick

 

[stevedenver]

  you know-since i still think in terms of 'train set'

-id buy a few odd shaped bits to have on hand
-half sections and smaller sections, both straight and curved-and some in the different radii and just see what works- buy them in pairs at least   

i know the bits are pricey -but they usually get used-the upside over cutting to fit is that the joiners will be very tight-tighter in all likelihood than cutting and reattaching a joiner-unless you solder or do something else

 

[TONYWARD50]

Thanks to all of you - I will digest the ANYRAIL and let you know how I get on.#

Steve - although I have radius 3 points, a R2 curve will still bring the loop parallel to the main line - but I think this is where it messes up the straights which are required.
It may be easiest to get 2 x R3 curves, although this will increase the distance between the track centres, which I wanted to avoid if possible.

 

[coyote97]

Dont ever fear to take a saw and cut a straight track to fit exactly. U can buy some joiners (on what the slightly more expensive, massive railjoiners of brass with screws are much better) and stick the shortened track easily between.

The rest of the track u can fit to every dumptrack to make it longer for an inch or two (or three...or four)


Its not difficult, not dangerous.

U just have to dare to cut something that is whole. I know the problem, i was like this when i was a young modelller: i e.g. never dared to weather a car or (oh my god!) a loco!

Dare it!
its easy and fast and makes all fit well!

greetings

Frank

 

[TONYWARD50]

Firstly my apologies tto Steve - the Radius 2 curves APPEAR TO BE PARALLEL BUT THEY ARE NOT - a bit of logic should have told me this. Sorry Steve, you were right.
Anyway, the ANYRAIL has at last come up with the solution after much fiddling - I need the R3 curves and also a 52mm straight, which is a bit of shame cos Sir Jeremy of Dragon doesn't have any.

So, it looks like a bit of a job for Mr Hacksaw....unless you guys can come up with any other suggestions......

 

[stevedenver]

late to respond tony

try what I suggested first-

presuming a passing siding on a straight section-try for example 6 300mm sections on the main and 5 300mm sections on the turnout portion(along with a full segment of 1600 R3 to bring each parallel

i am almost certain you dont need the 52 mm-

just lay the track out elsewhere and give it a try-it should fit precisely -so precisely you will need to simultaneously fit the fishplates on both the main and the siding in order to get things inserted without fuss

 

[stockers]

Never be worried about cutting a bit of track. You then have the spare bit for cutting later. Keep the bits.
Whats the cost of one bit of track compared to your whole railway.