Lgb starter set to dcc

G

gscalerookie

Registered
Good day ladies and gents. I have an Lgb construction starter set with a steinz loco. The motor is engraved with a “g”. It has a 4 pin motor. I have a nce decoder that came with the 10 amp starter set I would like to install. Do I just solder the four leads from the decoder to the Lgb circuit board???
 
There is a little more to it..

You need to open the row of DIP switches on the circuit board.
You pick up track power, and feed back power to the motor through the large pins on the PCB. - Or solder a lead to them.

PhilP
 
PhilP said:
There is a little more to it..

You need to open the row of DIP switches on the circuit board.
You pick up track power, and feed back power to the motor through the large pins on the PCB. - Or solder a lead to them.

PhilP
Click to expand...
Yeah now I’m lost maybe I should get a direct fit. Any pics of what you referring to?
 
PhilP said:
You pick up track power, and feed back power to the motor through the large pins on the PCB. - Or solder a lead to them.
Click to expand...

Not with that decoder, it has a 4 pin plug on the flying lead (circled in green below) that attaches directly to the pins in the motor block.

IMG_2019.jpeg
 
gscalerookie said:
So it does get soldered into the four contacts in yellow?
Click to expand...

You just need to plug that 4 pin socket onto the pins on the motor block. There are sockets on that PCB which are intended for piggy-back mounting of an early LGB MTS (DCC) decoder. How you connect an NCE DCC decoder is beyond my area of immediate expertise as I don't use NCE kit.

BTW, you will also need to change some of the switch settings... I'll see what I can cone up with for that.


IMG_2020.jpeg IMG_2021.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Software Tools said:
You just need to plug that 4 pin socket onto the pins on the motor block. There are sockets on that PCB which are intended for piggy-back mounting of an early LGB MTS (DCC) decoder. How you connect an NCE DCC decoder is beyond my are of immediate expertise as I don't use NCE kit.

BTW, you will also need to change some of the switch settings... I'll see what I can cone up with for that.


View attachment 337351
Click to expand...
Ok thanks. I know where to plug the green circle plug. Just connecting this decoder if possible. I read somewhere if you use the piggyback decoder you switch the dips to off. Maybe I’ll just order the massoth eamotion L
 
Software Tools said:
Re the switch positions, the all need to be moved to the right (that is, towards the weight) when connecting a decoder via those onboard sockets.

Ordering a Massoth L would indeed be the path of least resistance.

This should be useful..... https://www.massoth.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/LGB-2x212-Stainz_EN_massoth_umbaubericht.pdf
Click to expand...
mXion also do a decoder that fits the socket - DRIVE-L 2.0 (4A Direct-Lokdecoder SUSI 8 Ausgänge Servos Rangierlicht) - mXion Modellbahntechnik

May be a touch cheaper than massoth for the same functionality (I just with mXion did a version with MFX/M4
 
Nighthaunt said:
mXion also do a decoder that fits the socket - DRIVE-L 2.0 (4A Direct-Lokdecoder SUSI 8 Ausgänge Servos Rangierlicht) - mXion Modellbahntechnik

May be a touch cheaper than massoth for the same functionality (I just with mXion did a version with MFX/M4
Click to expand...
I've been very happy with the MXion Drive-L in my Stainz. I fitted their €55 SX6 DCC sound module too, connected via the SUSI socket on the decoder and upgraded the speaker in the cab roof. Inexpensive and straightforward compared to some other DCC conversions.
 
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