Lgb Rail with Broken Rail Holdings Chairs Repair and creating a short (12cm) section with leftovers

dunnyrail

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Having seen some requests on how to repair damaged Chairs with glue etc I decided to illustrate my suggested repair. It also occured to me after another request that this would also be a good way to show how to make an odd section of track using leftovers. In this instance the sections of rail used are 12cm long. But any odd length could be created using these methods. Of course I used all odd sleepers and happened to have a couple of LGB Fishplates handy.

The parts laid out on the bench prior to work including that ever required cut off bit of Mains Cable. Other sorts of strong wire could also be used.
image.jpeg
Below I have made up the section using a piece of LGB Rail as a reference to spacing and working out how many sleepers would be required. My G scale eye got this right first time! Note I have also stripped the wires, bent them to u's and drilled the second sleeper from the left for wire shoving through.
image.jpeg
Below I have pushed the U's theough and bent them all over, a tap down with a Centre Punch and check with an LGB Wheel to ensure no flange contact and all is well. The sleepers with the U are pretty well immovable now.image.jpeg
Underneath view, not the neatest of jobs but it will suffice for an end siding or fill in somewhere on a permanent section of line.image.jpeg
This little project to make up Rail will not be so good for a continuously pulling up and putting down line. Here I would have prefered to use sleepers all with their Webb in place. But for a pretty permanent line will work just fine and start to use up some of those old sections that are just left over from a previous build.
 
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JimmyB

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Jon,

I think my point in another thread - do they need sticking (with adhesive) - NO (well as you say for a line permanently laid.
 

BakerJohn

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Very nice, Jon! I may go try this, as I just found that one of my LGB points is missing a sleeper on the end of the diverging track...
 

Fred Mills

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I don't know the state of the "Parts supply" over in the Eastern shore of the Atlantic Pond...but...if there are "Tie Strips" available, from LGB or Piko; that is the plastic ties without rails; it would possibly worth looking into.
I've found in my junk pile a full case of Aristo replacement tie strips. They are each about 6 inches in length, all ready to accommodate code 332 rail of any denomination. I don't know what it would cost to send several in a bubble wrap package...but I could look into it is anyone is interested. Send a note with your REAL name...I also have boxes of "Railcraft/Micro-Engineering" tie strip also.
Fr.Fred millsf@sympatico.ca
 

Fred Mills

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...Often, if tie strip is in hand, and only one tie is needed; it is simple to nip off one tie in the strip, with a handy pair of side cutters, then simply replace the offending tie by slipping the tie strip from the rails...easy peasy...!!
Fr.Fred
 

Sarah Winfield

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This morning I had delivered 2 LGB points "Not Working" according to the ebay description.

One I have cleaned up and already repaired. The other seems to be quite old and I wonder if it might have been electrically operated. (Please see photograph, I have removed the changeover's top cover)

I'm hoping to modify this to take the normal hand operated actuator.

What is interesting, for me anyway, is that the large plastic housing seems to be moulded as part of the toe end sleepers. Would a member please clarify the possible age of this point and whether it was initially electrically operated.

Thank you.

Sarah Winfield
 

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PhilP

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Weird arrangement of sleepers as well??

Does it have LGB embossed into the back of the sleepers at all?

Definitely looks like the 'guts' are missing from the actuator?
 

Paradise

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Sarah I think that is the early type of LGB switch. The ties are different being more angled. It looks like there are parts missing that makes it manually actuate. If you can't find the missing pieces, you can drill a a few very small holes in the ties and put a bent stiff spring wire (thick plain stainless steel guitar string) to make it spring to one side or the other. I'll have to find a picture so you can see how to do it. You could possibly also put the later type separate LGB actuator on the side after cutting away the old one or get one of the Bachmann switch stands which will probably fit.
 
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Sarah Winfield

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Thanks Paradise.

PhilP, it says Made in Western Germany by LEHMANN no 1200. (LGB) Yes the inside of the large compartment must have contained the actuator. I'm hoping I can cut off this part and modify it to take the normal hand operated actuator.

I bid for them knowing they needed repairing but they were a reasonable price.

I told you I was frugal.
 

Paradise

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Here is a Piko one that has the spring removed. It pokes into the two small holes and makes the switch spring to one side or the other. Each hole is adjacent when points are midway. The spring being wider will force the points to one side or the other. You still won't have a lever though but fingers work. A loose set of points without spring can move while wheels are going through it. That other piece is a cover so the spring wont pop out. You could probably just bend the wire underneath to stop it doing that. It's a simple fix if you can't find another actuator but there should be plenty around anyway..

004.JPG
 
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Gardenbahner

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This morning I had delivered 2 LGB points "Not Working" according to the ebay description.

One I have cleaned up and already repaired. The other seems to be quite old and I wonder if it might have been electrically operated. (Please see photograph, I have removed the changeover's top cover)

I'm hoping to modify this to take the normal hand operated actuator.

What is interesting, for me anyway, is that the large plastic housing seems to be moulded as part of the toe end sleepers. Would a member please clarify the possible age of this point and whether it was initially electrically operated.

Thank you.

Sarah Winfield

There are 2 main differences between the earlier versions of LGB points and the current ones.
1. The point blades were hinged 1/2 way along the length rather than at the ends.
2. The manual point lever was an oblong shape very similar to the current electric motors (see pic).
There is no difference between electric or manual points other than the type of lever fitted to it. These old points can be retro fitted with the newer manual or electric levers without problem.
IMG_20180523_182608506.jpg IMG_20180523_182608506.jpg
 

Gardenbahner

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There are 2 main differences between the earlier versions of LGB points and the current ones.
1. The point blades were hinged 1/2 way along the length rather than at the ends.
2. The manual point lever was an oblong shape very similar to the current electric motors (see pic).
There is no difference between electric or manual points other than the type of lever fitted to it. These old points can be retro fitted with the newer manual or electric levers without problem.
View attachment 237816 View attachment 237816

On closer inspection it seems that the point lever on your example is actually molded to the sleepers is that correct?
 

Sarah Winfield

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Yes, it seems to be.

I think I can cut it off and I have a new point actuator on order.

Hopefully I can cut it off the plastic housing without damaging the rest of the plastic sleepers.

Sarah Winfield
 

BakerJohn

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Yes, it seems to be.

I think I can cut it off and I have a new point actuator on order.

Hopefully I can cut it off the plastic housing without damaging the rest of the plastic sleepers.

Sarah Winfield
Sarah,

You could also just add the manual drive to the other side so that the molded on piece isn't as big of an issue. No? Or is the throw bar no long enough for that?
 

Bill Barnwell

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I still prefer the machine screw, If the rail clamp is just missing the hold down cleats you just turn rail section up side down and drill thru the webbing connecting the ties together, tap ( I use 2/56 X 1/4" machine screw ) same ones used by aristo craft to join there rails together. If part to the tie/sleeper is gone then I secure with small pieces of flat brass stock to a sturdy location and then attach that to the rail. See pictures, Bill
 

dunnyrail

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Sarah,

You could also just add the manual drive to the other side so that the molded on piece isn't as big of an issue. No? Or is the throw bar no long enough for that?
Not sure about that the pic does not help but for some reason the bas appears to be non standard. Price you pay for a cheepy, is fixable though is Sarah has the tech and tools.