LGB points (over-centre spring)

S

Sarah Winfield

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I don't like to investigate the mechanism which switches the points in case something pings out. On one of my small radius points when the lever is moved to change the point, one way is fine but the other way the switching rails don't move without a little help.
Is it safe to open the cover of the mechanism and apply some lubricant please?
Thanks,
Sarah Winfield
 
Does the LGB point have a manual switch attached, like the picture below? They help to ensure that the point is one way or the other, and they operate as "spring points" where the point returns to the chosen position after the train has passed through.
LGB12000.jpg
 
These, right?

12060[1].gif


Normal procedure is to remove the 12060 manual switch drive, and check that the points move completely freely in both directions. If the problem is there, look for the obstruction/dirt/etc.

Then check the switch drive that it is not gummed up internally or broken parts.

Greg
 
idlemarvel said:
Does the LGB point have a manual switch attached, like the picture below? They help to ensure that the point is one way or the other, and they operate as "spring points" where the point returns to the chosen position after the train has passed through.
View attachment 235408
Click to expand...

I know which type of point you are referring to but I don't believe it is that type. I'll try dismantling a mischievous point and find out how it works.

Sarah Winfield
 
My apologies.

It is a LGB manual point. I misunderstood some aspect of one of the replies.

When I move the lever on the mechanism, one way it is fine but the other way the point or switch rails i.e the rails that direct the wheels tend to stick until a small amount of pressure is applied to move them.

I know on some points they are sprung to always return to a particular direction. I don't know whether these are given a special name?

I think I shall remove the mechanisms cover and clean the internals.

Thank you for your understanding.

Sarah Winfield
 
Sarah Winfield said:
I think I shall remove the mechanisms cover and clean the internals.

.

Sarah Winfield
Click to expand...
Just undo the screws on the lid and clean inside.

Also check nothing is fouling the blades.

The blades contact a brass rubbing strip on the sleepers. I usually put a smear of copper slip on these surfaces....
 
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I would suggest that it is the blades that need lubricating, NOT the switch mech.
WD 40 or similar works - I lube all my points R1 and R3 out in the garden with WD40 bi-anually.

Spray liberally and leave to dry before you run a train.

The lube also preserves electrical continuity too.
 
As the previous posts have commented, you have two things to tackle: the point blades need to be sliding freely and the plastic manual lever mechanism (where the over-centre spring resides) also needs to free of gunk and lubricated with a something like graphite or PTFE. In my experience it's usually the blades being sticky which is the cause of these points not throwing over. It's also possible that the point has become slightly twisted which can cause the blades to stick.
 
Those LGB manual point mechanisms can be finicky outdoors after not too long a time. I use solid brass barrel bolts to move my points. They are so far fool proof and keep the points in the direction I set them. On both of the return loops, I have the turnouts spring loaded so no need to stand by those two points as they are self operating.

everbilt-fence-gate-latches-slide-bolts-15138-64_400_compressed.jpg
 
ntpntpntp said:
As the previous posts have commented, you have two things to tackle: the point blades need to be sliding freely and the plastic manual lever mechanism (where the over-centre spring resides) also needs to free of gunk and lubricated with a something like graphite or PTFE. In my experience it's usually the blades being sticky which is the cause of these points not throwing over. It's also possible that the point has become slightly twisted which can cause the blades to stick.
Click to expand...
 
Completely agree with Nick there. Even slight twisting really does not help at all, but last time I had the issue of blades sticking, I recall that I needed to give the contact plates a quick scrub with a fibre glass pen.

These are the metal strips that the blade ends move on and can get dulled or even corroded over time. If they are smooth and shiny not ony does it help continuity, but also movement is easier.

I note that over the years LGB have tweaked the design of these and older plates are flat, but newer plates are ribbed, so there is less rubbing area and less friction.

James
 
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it is an old LGB problem, that the springs in the manual switch mecanisms work better in one direction than the other.
in some cases (depending on the use) it helps to screw the mecanism to the other side of the point.
oiling the mecanism most often is counterproductive (atracting dust and dirt)
fabricating a stronger spring from piano wire, or scavenging a stronger spring from an old video player are options.
but the first try should be to revise and clean the moving parts of the turnout. the two railtongues.
 
I agree with Korm - keep clean but go steady on the lube. Regular use has to be the best preservative.
 
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