LGB Olomana 23130

[PaulRhB]

Well this is the second time I've bought this I had the earlier belt drive one and sold it in a clear out but when I saw the revised model with metal wheels on the truck I fell to temptation with the sugar can wagon set also due.
Basically the same to look at but the subtler gold of the fittings and bell plus the metal truck make a nice difference.
She's a little bit noisier due to the new shaft drive but not excessively so.
Lovely model and the only improvement would be a DCC socket. Why they've dropped that from the deutz and not added it to this in the retool defeats me. Surely they are losing a few sales to the people who run mts & mfx only?
Mine will get a small soundtraxx decoder and speaker for a mini test layout that will allow me to run this and some 7/8ths models.

 

[PaulRhB]

Oh and it comes with an alternative link & pin coupling too.

 

[ntpntpntp]

Nice. First thing I did with my older Chloe and Olomana was to fit metal Feldbahn trailing wheels, I never understood why LGB went for cheap plastic wheels that just looked wrong.

Would be nice if LGB added pickups to those trailing wheels. I added Bachmann roller-bullet pickups to the trailing wheels on mine.

 

[casey jones snr]

I too had a couple of the first run models. One I kept in the original livery the other was heavily weathered and fitted with a shotgun smoke stack. They were also fitted with link and pin couplers. They ran very well indoors but tended to stall on the points when ran outdoors. I eventually passed them on to a young fellow that was developing a shelf layout.
I might well consider getting the latest model.

 

[dunnyrail]

Paul,
Not my thing, but perhaps you could rename it Obama after a soon to be retired President? Not too many letters to revise.
JonD

 

[PaulRhB]

no I'm not going there Jon

I am going to use the pin couplers again, I have a few somwhere. I need to modify one to replace the front bar coupling as it doesn't swing sideways.

 

[stevedenver]

lovely loco paul!

I still have my old versions-

do you think it worth buying the new Olomano if I have 2 old Olomano and 1 Chloe, and, a variety of the older diesels, (decoder) and 2 steam FRR locos?

if traction or performance were noticeably better I think I would buy 1-2. If not, id pass. Is it as heavy as the originals? I know LGB stopped using lead, and the originals were very light. SO light, in fact, I packed the steam and sand domes and smoke box with lead wool. No more quick start wheelies.

These are among my favorite LGB locos. So far, they are all just fine. I tend to run them with very light loads, and I know this helps avoid the gear wear..

I too installed the metal trailing FRR wheels and a tiny seuthe unit. It is so small it must be filled with a hypodermic-and oddly, works at a low enough voltage to wisp a bit. I also added brass bunker marker lights.

 

[PaulRhB]

While I can't remember exactly she seems as heavy as the old one and doesn't wheely. I've only run with two wagons but I'd say they are identical in ability. The new shaft replacing the belt drive really is the only difference and as I said above that's a tiny bit more noisy but I guess will quieten down once well run in. I never broke a belt on any of my three locos with that drive but I tended to only run 4-6 of the small feldbahn wagons with them
There is a minor improvement in the finish with the gold colour being painted rather than plated and the rods are a little darker but that's it.
I'm hoping they bring out Chloe again next year

 

[ntpntpntp]

Can't say I've ever noticed any "wheelie" behaviour with my old design 0-4-2s, and they're unmodified in terms of weight (apart from the metal wheel upgrades)

This is still one of my favourite photos of the wee beasties

 

[PaulRhB]

Like Nick I never had an issue with wheelies on the original one.

 

[RhB613]

Always liked these, but for a different reason. I can remember standing below it on its pedestal tressle at the Smithsonian/National History Museum in 1983.

 

[PaulRhB]

I decided to add a link and pin coupler on the front as the supplied bar isn't usable for coupling. It will probably need a longer link in use but this allows it to be used 'in anger'.
First cut a coupler moulding at the same angle as the cowcatcher, then drill a hole in the back of the body and trim your chosen screw to length. I used a kadee mounting screw.


Using the hole left by popping out the supplied coupling bar, I just used a plastic plate so the screw didn't pop through. As long as it is shallower than the lip of the red moulding no modification to the loco is needed.


And the result

 

[casey jones snr]

Looks good.