LGB engine runs slower when front light is on.

[stevedenver]

And….
re disassembling a clam shell…
its quite doable…but….
you must pay attention to:
quartering

correctly seating the motor toavoid bending the motor contact tabs (hint there a plastic pin on the edge of the motor that seats in the block. This can take me couple of attempts. Nothing needs force, and if itdoes youve missed correctly fitting/ seating things)

thrust bearing ball bearings…tiny little ball bearings that sit in a box at each end of the motor shaft. Generally, i leave these in, pack with fresh grease. Clean all other old grease. If you lose the ball bearings, youll need a newer model motor that doesnt require the bearings.

set aside plenty of time so you can remember the order of parts.
work over a towel to avoid bouncing parts.

be sure to depress contact brush plungers behind the wheels before you press the wheels down into the block to avoidshearing / breaking the brushes. They are brittle and delicate.


fwiw, despite my considerable, albeit sporadic , experience, to get things perfect, if often takes me several attempts, including completely disassembling and starting afresh.

having the right mini hex and flathead screw drivers for rods and wheels is important. So is really cleaning everything. Warm water and dish detergent and a tooth brush works for me. Mind those bearings.

on a couple of my stainz, i believe ihave 14-16 v lamps. These light well at ”normal” speeds, and white hot at faster speeds. I have used the leds. They dont have the omni directional shine that an incandescent bulb does, as the focal point on the led is up into the top of the lamp housing, if youre into genuine darkness penetrating headlight beam.

 

[Paul M]

set aside plenty of time so you can remember the order of parts.

A camera is your friend here. Take pictures as you go. It might not help find the spring as it shots into the otherworld, but it'll be a help in knowing where it should go in the engine

 

[phils2um]

be sure to depress contact brush plungers behind the wheels before you press the wheels down into the block to avoidshearing / breaking the brushes. They are brittle and delicate.

I like to use painter tape to keep the brushes depressed in place when replacing the wheels - especially the early style with separate brass housings, springs, and brushes. I'll also replace the old style brushes with the newer self-contained units whenever possible.

 

[LGB333]

I like to use painter tape to keep the brushes depressed in place when replacing the wheels - especially the early style with separate brass housings, springs, and brushes. I'll also replace the old style brushes with the newer self-contained units whenever possible.

phis2um: I hadn't thought of trying to replace the old 3-piece carbon brush units with the current self-contained units.........I'll try that next time. Thanks for the suggestion!