LGB Bridge Viaduct

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electricity_bill

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Hello
I am thinking of building a short (2 or 3 spans) viaduct using the LGB 50600 450mm bridge as the basis. What I am not clear about is how to use their support blocks 50611 etc to build the piers. Can any one please explain?

Thanks

Bill
 
You don't need them in my experience, they seem to be more for the larger LGB bridge. Having bought two lots as I have two 50600 bridges, I have never found any way to match piers to bridge.
 
Andy used a couple joined together on the Ruschbahn using Steel Section 10-12mm x 3mm or so. Bolted on with 8ba or suchlike nuts and screws. The ends were slightly longer than the bridge created and were screwed into the track base. Made a pretty’s strong bridge.
 
I suggest you use building blocks or bricks - what ever size suits. There is a light weight block that is easy to cut with an old saw - trade name Celcon or Thermalite - just over a quid each in the DIY sheds.
You can scribe bloclwork on them easily with an old screwdriver or similar - a bit battered, been out now about 10 years.
(It will blunten the saw though)
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stockers said:
I suggest you use building blocks or bricks - what ever size suits. There is a light weight block that is easy to cut with an old saw - trade name Celcon or Thermalite - just over a quid each in the DIY sheds.
You can scribe bloclwork on them easily with an old screwdriver or similar - a bit battered, been out now about 10 years.
(It will blunten the saw though)
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I like to use old saws for this job, thus meaning that I have an another reason to not chuck out toot!
 
As I use them in the day job, hand saws last me about 2 months - so I always have a ready supply. You really cant beat a nice new sharp saw.
 
Ah - Disston or Tyzack. I still have a Saw Set somewhere. I was always taught that if a saw was correctly set, you could slide a needle (between the teeth) down the whole length of the saw.
 
PhilP said:
That's about how long a modern saw lasts anyway..
A 'proper' saw you can file edges on the teeth, and set yourself.. ;):nod::nod:
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and the time would cost you more than a new modern one.!
 
For my bridge I used bricks glued together . Then covered them with grout . Then used a cake mold to push in the stone work before it was totally dry. Looks decent and really cheap to do. After everything was dry I did a black paint wash over it to weather it slightly. Just another idea you may try.IMG_20180210_085341937.jpg IMG_20180210_085325121.jpg IMG_20170821_172823140_HDR.jpg IMG_20170821_172819069_HDR.jpg IMG_20170821_190156734.jpg IMG_20170821_172819069_HDR.jpg
 
Ah, my old Disstons. Made right here in Philadelphia. Still can't beat a good hand saw. We would take them to Service-saw on Spring Garden Street to have them sharpened. Even in my working career, when it changed owners it's sharpening service was not quite up to what it had been.

Sadly, Service-saw is no longer there and hasn't been for many years. It's impossible to find a saw sharpening service for hand saws no days. The local old time hardware store doesn't even have a good reference for one either.

My 12 point, 8 point and rip are all hanging in my shop. They only get used occasionally.
 
electricity_bill said:
Hello
I am thinking of building a short (2 or 3 spans) viaduct using the LGB 50600 450mm bridge as the basis. What I am not clear about is how to use their support blocks 50611 etc to build the piers. Can any one please explain?

Thanks

Bill
Click to expand...
Bill, I just poured cement in a form, let it dry good and placed shown brick on it securing with liquid nails, then grouted with cement grout. Bricks are real and made for dollhouses but survive in the wild, mine have been out side for more the 20 years. Although they are 1" scale they look in place without any problem
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I did have a viaduct made from 3 and I made my own precast concrete piers. The formwork is quite easy to make form sheet of WBP plywood screwed together.
 
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