LGB and Peco

[ASG]

Has anybody got experience of connecting LGB and Peco track?

The reason I ask is I'm currently building my layout with LGB track, but I pick up some bits at the weekend and the seller threw in a brand new Peco point and some flexi track. I would like to use the point at the end of my layout to give two siding, where one train can wait while the other is on track. The track in the siding can be peco as well.
The LGB track is thicker than the Peco so I will have to modify some connectors, but other than that can anybody think of other problems.

Andrew

 

[ntpntpntp]

Peco make special adaptor fishplates to connect LGB and other code 332 rail to Peco rail.

I haven't used these myself (my track is all LGB) but friends have mixed the two sizes sucessfully with the adaptor fishplates. The only problem I've observed when helping lay their track is where we tried to join Peco to some Accucraft track produced a couple of years ago - the foot of the Accucraft rail used at that time was a bit thicker and caused a slight mismatch in height which we didn't get when joining to LGB (don't get the same problem when joining to current production Accucraft/AML track).


Oh, and watch out for problems with LGB logo skates shorting out on the frog of the Peco points. This is a well known problem. There are various solutions, from simply painting over the very ends of the peco rail at the V of the frog, to bending the skate profile, to completely rebuilding the frog with rail as a "live frog" point (I've done a few live frog rebuilds for friends).

 

[Gizzy]

Has anybody got experience of connecting LGB and Peco track?

The reason I ask is I'm currently building my layout with LGB track, but I pick up some bits at the weekend and the seller threw in a brand new Peco point and some flexi track. I would like to use the point at the end of my layout to give two siding, where one train can wait while the other is on track. The track in the siding can be peco as well.
The LGB track is thicker than the Peco so I will have to modify some connectors, but other than that can anybody think of other problems.

Andrew

Peco make a joiner to connect their code 250 rail to LGB (and most other manufacturer's) code 332 track....

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PESL-912&style=main&strType=g&Mcode=Peco SL-912

 

[Gizzy]

Has anybody got experience of connecting LGB and Peco track?

The reason I ask is I'm currently building my layout with LGB track, but I pick up some bits at the weekend and the seller threw in a brand new Peco point and some flexi track. I would like to use the point at the end of my layout to give two siding, where one train can wait while the other is on track. The track in the siding can be peco as well.
The LGB track is thicker than the Peco so I will have to modify some connectors, but other than that can anybody think of other problems.

Andrew

Peco make a joiner to connect their code 250 rail to LGB (and most other manufacturer's) code 332 track....

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PESL-912&style=main&strType=g&Mcode=Peco SL-912

If you want to put a LGB point motor on a peco point, then you may find this useful.

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PEPL-8&style=main&strType=g&Mcode=Peco PL-8

Not used Peco and LGB track together myself, but I know a man who has used Peco points with LGB track successfully. I haven't seen him on the forum for a while though....

 

[ntpntpntp]

The rail is a completely different profile and you'll have fun and games trying to join it up.

Actually the Peco adapter joiners (to which Gizzy has provided a link above) do the job very well. I think they're "handed" to cope with the different width of the rail head and foot, so that the head lines up correctly on the inside edge.

The sleeper spacing is also very different.

Yes there is a noticeable difference, but I don't think it's too bad unless you try and mix Peco with the "US tie spacing" track of say Aristocraft or USA Trains instead of the "Euro spacing" which is similar to LGB. The difference in total height from base of sleeper to top of rail can be an issue - you need to pack under the Peco sleepers.

The other possible problem is that overscale flanges on older rolling stock may clatter the chairs on the lower Peco track. But it should work... it did on my old line...

Can't say I've noticed any problems with stock running on the Peco track so far. Now, the Gauge 1 track is a different kettle of fish and does cause problems, but that's a still lower rail profile.

Actuallly, although I use LGB and AML track for my garden line I do plan to use Peco track for a proposed portable modular layout. In this situation, with the track raised up a yard or so, I think the lower profile of the Peco track looks better. It's a bit cheaper and lighter too!

 

[ntpntpntp]

ah-ha... thought I might have a couple of the Peco adapter joiners somewhere. Here's a couple of photos showing them joining Peco to LGB.
Note the couple of mm packing required under the Peco sleepers. The gap at the joint is an intentional part of the design of the joiners, as they can be used either as insulating joiners or conductive (with a shaped metal strip inserted)

 

[stevelewis]

The Peco convertor railjoiners do their job well!

As mentioned Loco pickup skates can be a problem with causing shorts at the 'V' of the Peco point frog, however it is easily rectified by gently bending the outer edges of the loco's skates upwards very slightly 1mm usually suffices.

My Main critisism of peco Trackwork is hat it needs to be cleaned much more frequently and the points do not stand up to the rigours of the climate as well as LGB etc ponts do, the main point! of failure is the tie bar/switch rail connection!

 

[Glengrant]

well, it's all been said, you should have no problem with LGB to Peco, apart from that Peco frog problem, we've been talking about that for ages. Easiest way out of that is if you have loco pickups both skate and wheel, remove the skate. I have no difficulty with the US diesels that way, but of course the wee LGB locos wouldn't like it. Look, it's like everything else in this game, you gotta adapt. Now, certain wheel flanges and Aristo points, that's something else. Is anyone out there in the trade listening to us pleading for standardisation?

 

[doverles]

my track is LGB, aristocraft, piko,and peco points and in three years no problem with points after NTPNTPNTP altered the frog


Les

 

[ASG]

Many thanks for all the replies, I will get some of the connectors/converters for the tracks now I know what to look for.

Andrew

 

[Gizzy]

Many thanks for all the replies, I will get some of the connectors/converters for the tracks now I know what to look for.

Andrew

You're welcome Andrew.

Looking at Nick's photo in post #7 reminds me of when Notwork Rail have to join Bullhead rail to more modern Flat Bottom rail.

Here's a pic I took at Sheringham recently where the North Norfolk Railway bullhead rail has been re-connected to the Bittern Line which has flat bottom rail of a heavier profile, and another of a prototype Insulated Joiner, which I assume isolates the NR signaling detection from the NNR....

 

[Neil Robinson]

Here's a pic I took at Sheringham recently where the North Norfolk Railway bullhead rail has been re-connected to the Bittern Line which has flat bottom rail of a heavier profile, and another of a prototype Insulated Joiner, which I assume isolates the NR signaling detection from the NNR....

You could use soldering/brazing/thermit welding as per the F.R. Picture taken on Harbour station platform road.

 

[dunnyrail]

I have in the past connected varying type of different profile rail. But I NEVER SOLDER IT as such. Always use Silver Solder, if you do this to short lengths you can make a small section the put sleepers on after it has cooled. The Silver Solder if done properly will not come adrift as a normal soldered joint can tend to outside.
JonD

 

[royale]

A quick and simple fix if you're having problems with skates on Peco frogs is to lengthen the frog with a small piece of self adhesive insulating tape. It's virtually unnoticeable and lasts for many months. I have a mixture of Peco, Aristo and LGB track and have no problems with conductivity or derailments. Some of my Peco points have been down 5 or 6 years and have never given any problems, and most of them were second hand when I bought them, but my 3 LGB R3's have given problems. Another way to join Peco to LGB track is to do what a friend of mine does - cut a slot at the end of the LGB rails with a Dremel just above the base section of the rail, then use a Peco rail joiner (slightly opened out for the LGB rail) to join the two tracks together.

 

[trammayo]

It just goes to show - there's a prototype for everything!

Mick

 

[Gizzy]

Here's a pic I took at Sheringham recently where the North Norfolk Railway bullhead rail has been re-connected to the Bittern Line which has flat bottom rail of a heavier profile, and another of a prototype Insulated Joiner, which I assume isolates the NR signaling detection from the NNR....

You could use soldering/brazing/thermit welding as per the F.R. Picture taken on Harbour station platform road.

Mind the step....

 

[hagen]

It just goes to show - there's a prototype for everything!

Mick

Still looking for the insulating tape on the frog on the prototype though

 

[trammayo]

It just goes to show - there's a prototype for everything!

Mick

Still looking for the insulating tape on the frog on the prototype though

Now, if it was cost effective, maintenance free, and durable .......

Mick

 

[royale]

Transparent insulating tape isn't easy to see, especially in photographs!