LGB 55029 Retrofit Sound Decoder for older models with current programming

POLO_Train

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Hello everyone,

I am about ready to build my new outdoor layout after years of collecting and clearing my back yard to be able to build the layout.
I live on a hill with a decent grade on it, and I bought the new LGB 23101 with new COG gears for it. I did buy the CS3 to manage the 23101 and I am looking to upgrade all my older LGB RhB engines. The older engines will require a rewire because their motor blocks are old "D" style. I am okay with the disassembly and rewire to get them capable of having a new decoder installed in them.

I wish to add a LGB MFX decoder to the older engines 2040, 2043, 2044, 2140, 2046, and 21330.

How do I find some good information on wiring and software programming with the older engines so that they will be able to be controlled with CS3 with more recent decoder firmware?
For example:
If I rewire my 2040 or 2043 with the LGB 55029 retrofit sound decoder and land the lights with the appriopiate terminals, can I download the latest LGB 23406 decoder firmware/software so that it sounds and lights the same way?

I have not been able to find much information on it. I figure this must not be a common question or resonable request, but I will try.

Thank you for the help,
Mark
 

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For example:
If I rewire my 2040 or 2043 with the LGB 55029 retrofit sound decoder and land the lights with the appriopiate terminals, can I download the latest LGB 23406 decoder firmware/software so that it sounds and lights the same way?

I have not been able to find much information on it. I figure this must not be a common question or resonable request, but I will try.

Yes you can do exactly that - download the 23406 sound file and install it into onto a 55029 retrofit decoder. Whats nice is you get all the motor settings pre-configured. I recommend using the mDecoder Tool along with the 60971 programmer and 55129 adapter board to load sound files. It will take seconds to load vs 30+ minutes through the CS3. Once loaded and installed you can make configuration changes through the CS3 interface. The current sound files for those locos are all really good with up to 30 function sounds. You can even load any of the sounds from the sound file library to customize if you want. I really like ESU sound files and decoders, but they dont have this capability.

The wiring is pretty straightforward on the 55029 adapter board, although it does not use the standard 2, 3, and 4 pin sockets. You have to solder directly to the adapter board. One thing to note is that the terminals are all full track power, so make sure you achieve the proper voltage needed for lights before connecting either by reducing voltage to the output on the decoder or installing resistors.

I've done 3 or 4 conversions using the 55029 - 21272, 20390, and 21471. The RhB railcar was the easiest of the lot.
 
Yes you can do exactly that - download the 23406 sound file and install it into onto a 55029 retrofit decoder. Whats nice is you get all the motor settings pre-configured. I recommend using the mDecoder Tool along with the 60971 programmer and 55129 adapter board to load sound files. It will take seconds to load vs 30+ minutes through the CS3. Once loaded and installed you can make configuration changes through the CS3 interface. The current sound files for those locos are all really good with up to 30 function sounds. You can even load any of the sounds from the sound file library to customize if you want. I really like ESU sound files and decoders, but they dont have this capability.

The wiring is pretty straightforward on the 55029 adapter board, although it does not use the standard 2, 3, and 4 pin sockets. You have to solder directly to the adapter board. One thing to note is that the terminals are all full track power, so make sure you achieve the proper voltage needed for lights before connecting either by reducing voltage to the output on the decoder or installing resistors.

I've done 3 or 4 conversions using the 55029 - 21272, 20390, and 21471. The RhB railcar was the easiest of the lot.

Thank you very much!
I was hoping that that was the solution.
I was not searching for the right words and I could not find that answer easily.

Did you change out your lights or leave the existing with the appropriate resistors?
 
Thank you very much!
I was hoping that that was the solution.
I was not searching for the right words and I could not find that answer easily.

Did you change out your lights or leave the existing with the appropriate resistors?

I always change out lights to LEDs on my conversions. I like to use a buck converter to set the voltage for all LEDs. In order to do this you need to wire it to one of the outputs and then configure that output to turn on with any of light functions. It saves a lot of individual resistor wiring for each lighting function.
 
I found that in order to run my engines on DC and DCC that an led with the CL2-N3 (needs polarized DC voltage) device works great and I get full brightness at low voltages. This device limits current to 20 ma and works from 5 volts up to 90 volts limiting the current. I either use single 20 ma leds, or 2 10 ma leds in parallel. For those with battery operation or DCC, leds can be in series in passenger cars.
 
I always change out lights to LEDs on my conversions. I like to use a buck converter to set the voltage for all LEDs. In order to do this you need to wire it to one of the outputs and then configure that output to turn on with any of light functions. It saves a lot of individual resistor wiring for each lighting function.
Thanks again! Work and Holiday travel put me back a few weeks, but I was able to open the engines up and start to figure out my game plan.

Do you have any recommendations for LED specifications that fit into the 5V sockets well and work well with the decoders? There hundreds of thousands of options now, haha. I ddi buy some Buch converters to test with and use as well, so thank you for that suggestion.

The FO HGe 2/2 2046 will definitely be to easiest to get running, but now I wish to over complicate it with trying to figure out how to do the "Swiss light" (just the lower right light lights up) on it. I was surprised I was not able to find much information on google.com and google.de for converting the FO HGe 2/2 2046 with a decoder. I assumed they would have posted a few methods. I did find the two similar older conversions guides for 2043. I had them translated and I will post them.

I did go through the 2015-2024 manuals to double check if there are mfx versions my current engines. I found the 23461 SchB Class HGe 2/2 was released back in 2017. Though there is no mfx file on the marlin servers or on the LGB product page: SchB Class HGe 2/2 | LGB Websites.

I will try to email Marklin to see if they can send the file.


New YearModel NumberDescriptionEraDecoderCar NumberNotes
201521225RhB Class ABe 8/12 "Allegra" Powered Rail Car TrainVImfx3500Blue, Chur-Arosa rail line
201521427RhB Class Ge 4/4 III "Coop" Electric LocomotiveVImfx641
201522412RhB Tractor, Road Number Tm 2/2 91Vmfx91
201528437RhB Class Ge 4/4 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx6301912-2012 100 Jahre Onss Anni Cuera-Muster
201528438RhB Class Ge 4/4 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx6201913-2013 100 Jahre Ons Anni Bever-Scoul
201528439RhB Class Ge 4/4 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx6231889-2014 125 Jahre Onns Rhaetian Railroad
201624450RhB Ge 2/4 Electric LocomotiveIIImfx221
201625390RhB ABe 4/4 Powered Rail CarIIImfx34
201628440RhB Class Ge 4/4 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx6271914-2014 100 Jahre Onns Anni Chur-Arosa
201722225RhB Class ABe 8/12 "Allegra" Powered Rail Car TrainVImfx3513Red
201721428RhB Class Ge 4/4 III "Glacier on Tour" Electric LocomotiveVImfx651
201623406RhB Ge 6/6 I Electric LocomotiveIIImfx409
201728441RhB Glass Ge 4/4 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx629Albula Tunnel construction in the Grisons
201733353RhB Gondola wiht SoundVImfx2112
201723461SchB Class HGe 2/2IIImfx1
201828443RhB "50 Years of LGB" Class Ge 4/4 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx617
201821411RhB Switching TractorVImfx22
201922061RhB Class Ge 6/6 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx702Red
201928444RhB Class Ge 4/4 II "Rhaetia Dontion Appeal" Electric LocomotiveVImfx616
201921429RhB Class Ge 4/4 III "Blick" Electric LocomotiveVImfx648"Blick "View" version
201928445RhB Class Ge 4/4 II "RhB Clud" Electric LocomotiveVImfx620
202022062RhB Class Ge 6/6 II Electric LocomotiveIVmfx707Green
202123407RhB Class Ge 6/6 I Electric LocomotiveVImfx415Low End - Brown
202126600RhB Class Ge 6/6 I Electric LocomotiveVImfx414High End - Brown
202126602RhB Class Ge 6/6 I Electric LocomotiveVmfx412High End - Blue
202122040RhB Class Ge 4/4 I Electric LocomotiveIVmfx605Green
202228442RhB Class Ge 4/4 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx632Red
202226601RhB Class Ge 6/6 I Electric LocomotiveVImfx415High End - Color Changing
202225392RhB Class ABe 4/4 Powered Rail Car, Road Number 30VImfx30Yellow
202221431RhB Class Ge 4/4 III Electric LocomotiveVImfx644World Record Attempt
202222042RhB Class Ge 4/4 I Electric LocomotiveVImfx602Red
202321430RhB Class Ge 4/4 III Electric LocomotiveVImfx644Red - with an air whistle
202323100RhB Class ABe 4/16 "Capricorn" Powered Rail CarVImfx3111Red
202423101MGB Class HGe 4/4 II Electric LocomotiveVImfx106Red
202424601RhB Class Ge 4/6 Electric LocomotiveVImfx353Brown


 

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Thanks again! Work and Holiday travel put me back a few weeks, but I was able to open the engines up and start to figure out my game plan.

Do you have any recommendations for LED specifications that fit into the 5V sockets well and work well with the decoders? There hundreds of thousands of options now, haha. I ddi buy some Buch converters to test with and use as well, so thank you for that suggestion.

If they are 2 pin sockets then typically 3mm flat top warm white LEDs are your best bet. typical voltage setting is 3.0-3.2V for these. For screw sockets there are some direct LED replacements.

The FO HGe 2/2 2046 will definitely be to easiest to get running, but now I wish to over complicate it with trying to figure out how to do the "Swiss light" (just the lower right light lights up) on it. I was surprised I was not able to find much information on google.com and google.de for converting the FO HGe 2/2 2046 with a decoder. I assumed they would have posted a few methods. I did find the two similar older conversions guides for 2043. I had them translated and I will post them.​

I recently converted a 2046 FO HGe 2/2 and used an ESU 5 XL decoder. I used the HGe 4/4 I sound file as this was the best option. I should note that the ESU 5 XL decoders also have the MFX protocol, which they call M4 for trademark reasons. Its DCC and a few others as well, so very similar to the MSD3 decoders. It can be controlled via the CS3 in MFX.

The hardest part was getting speaker placement. I drilled some sound holes in the bottom behind the weight and used 2 of the square style speakers like the ones that come with the 55029 retrofit decoder. The 5 XL has 2 speaker ouputs. I'd use 2 4ohm versions if wiring in series for 1 speaker output. There was some dremeling needed to get them to fit nicely in front of the body screws.

IMG_2231.jpeg

IMG_2208.jpeg

IMG_2209.jpeg

Swiss lights on the 5 XL are easy to wire with 10 AUX terminals but requires some modification to the light board to isolate the lower right light. I removed the diode. You want to use the existing white wire as the common positive and then jumper brown to the lower left and upper. Green becomes the isolated lower right. Connect each lower right ot its own output on the decoder and to always be on. The upper and lower left go to the direction lighting outputs. You can get rid of the main board and just do the modifications to the 2 light boards and wire them directly to the decoder. Same for cab light. It can be removed from the main board and wired directly to the decoder.

IMG_2203.jpeg

Swiss lights are much easier on newer LGB locos and using the 55029 retrofit decoder. The Swiss sound files are configured for them already, you just need to map the individual lights properly. The lower right front/back should be on its own leads already, which is how LGB configures it.
 
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Hello everyone,

I am about ready to build my new outdoor layout after years of collecting and clearing my back yard to be able to build the layout.
I live on a hill with a decent grade on it, and I bought the new LGB 23101 with new COG gears for it. I did buy the CS3 to manage the 23101 and I am looking to upgrade all my older LGB RhB engines. The older engines will require a rewire because their motor blocks are old "D" style. I am okay with the disassembly and rewire to get them capable of having a new decoder installed in them.

I wish to add a LGB MFX decoder to the older engines 2040, 2043, 2044, 2140, 2046, and 21330.

How do I find some good information on wiring and software programming with the older engines so that they will be able to be controlled with CS3 with more recent decoder firmware?
For example:
If I rewire my 2040 or 2043 with the LGB 55029 retrofit sound decoder and land the lights with the appriopiate terminals, can I download the latest LGB 23406 decoder firmware/software so that it sounds and lights the same way?

I have not been able to find much information on it. I figure this must not be a common question or resonable request, but I will try.

Thank you for the help,
Mark
If you dont end up using all those buildings I'd be interested in some.
 
If they are 2 pin sockets then typically 3mm flat top warm white LEDs are your best bet. typical voltage setting is 3.0-3.2V for these. For screw sockets there are some direct LED replacements.



I recently converted a 2046 FO HGe 2/2 and used an ESU 5 XL decoder. I used the HGe 4/4 I sound file as this was the best option. I should note that the ESU 5 XL decoders also have the MFX protocol, which they call M4 for trademark reasons. Its DCC and a few others as well, so very similar to the MSD3 decoders. It can be controlled via the CS3 in MFX.

The hardest part was getting speaker placement. I drilled some sound holes in the bottom behind the weight and used 2 of the square style speakers like the ones that come with the 55029 retrofit decoder. The 5 XL has 2 speaker ouputs. I'd use 2 4ohm versions if wiring in series for 1 speaker output. There was some dremeling needed to get them to fit nicely in front of the body screws.

View attachment 335578

View attachment 335575

View attachment 335576

Swiss lights on the 5 XL are easy to wire with 10 AUX terminals but requires some modification to the light board to isolate the lower right light. I removed the diode. You want to use the existing white wire as the common positive and then jumper brown to the lower left and upper. Green becomes the isolated lower right. Connect each lower right ot its own output on the decoder and to always be on. The upper and lower left go to the direction lighting outputs. You can get rid of the main board and just do the modifications to the 2 light boards and wire them directly to the decoder. Same for cab light. It can be removed from the main board and wired directly to the decoder.

View attachment 335577

Swiss lights are much easier on newer LGB locos and using the 55029 retrofit decoder. The Swiss sound files are configured for them already, you just need to map the individual lights properly. The lower left front/back should be on its own leads already, which is how LGB configures it.

This is great information, thank you Diesel2000.

ESU 5 XL decoders also have the MFX protocol
The ESU 5 XL decoders appear to be a better option, but I already have the LGB decoders.

I have found on this forum a part number for the replacement connectors to the gear bock pins, and found them in the US here:
They are almost a perfect replacement (see attached images), I pulled apart the 2044 to understand it better and determine what would be a good method to create a 4 wire from the 3 wire motor block.

I have some more installation pieces showing up this weekend. I wish to start on the 2046 first, because I believe it will be easiest conversion and teach myself the programming of the decoder as well.

Thank you for the picture of the lights, I am going to do that exact same thing, but with the LGB mfx decoder. I need to draw up the wiring diagram to double check everything and make sure the common wires makes sense for the LGB mfx decoder.

The buildings are for the outdoor and indoor layouts, haha. No plan to sell any of them yet.IMG_0036.jpegIMG_0026.jpegIMG_0025.jpegIMG_0029.jpegIMG_0021.jpegIMG_0016.jpegIMG_0022.jpegIMG_0017.jpeg
 
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Question: Has anyone had success installing the LGB 24V bulbs (LGB E130110 (68513) Plug-In Bulbs, Clear, 24 Volt, 10 pieces) instead of using voltage converters for the old 5V bulbs?

I had some time after travel last week to start to get the soldering done on the 2046.
I left ample length in the wire and added spade connections just because this is my first conversion and I wish to test out the converters, 24V bulbs, and LED options so I wanted the flexibility to easily connect and disconnect the decoder base.

I put in the request for the LGB 23461 mfx a little later, and I am crossing my fingers but I would bet I won't get it.
There is the 24450 Ge 2/4 (24451 in Marklin server) mfx file that I was thinking of using too.

I ordered a few more parts (including rollers) this weekend, and I should be able to start to program and test the engine!

Thank you for all the help!

IMG_0003.jpegIMG_0005.jpegIMG_0011.jpegIMG_0012.jpeg
 
I would have put sleeves on the connectors...
Especially if you are experimenting, and will have leads floating around not connected to anything. - Many of these outputs, do not like short-circuits.

Does look neat and tidy, do far though.
:clap:

PhilP
 
I would have put sleeves on the connectors...
Especially if you are experimenting, and will have leads floating around not connected to anything. - Many of these outputs, do not like short-circuits.

Does look neat and tidy, do far though.
:clap:

PhilP
Oh sorry, heat shrink will be going on to each connector before it is powered up!
And thank you.
The leads are long, and they will get trimmed down to be tightened up when everything is done with programming. I will be fumbling through that process shortly, haha.
 
I am still waiting on new bulbs, rollers, and a Adjustable Switching Regulated DC Bench Power Supply to double check some things hopefully by Sunday.

I found the site MTS-Line.de that has LED conversion kits for LGB engines that are 5-24V:
 
After I received a few more parts and pieces to have some fun with testing, I was able to get the FO HGe 2/2 21 to work well with the LGB decoder 55029 with the download of the L24451 (or LGB 24450) Marklin MFX file download file.

I did notice a 2V drop from track to motor block output pins.
I assume that I need to clean up the contact points a bit more?
Should I add conductive grease to the points of contact within the motor block?

The process took a few tries with what I can guess is connectivity issues between the laptop and the CS3 station. I think I updated the firmware version of the decoder, but half of it was in German. I was able to download the mfx file to the new decoder and everything appears to be working as I thought it should work with the decoder.

I was able to even get the Swiss lighting to still function with output 1 and 2 along with the front and rear lighting commands.

I am very happy with it so far haha, and I am bit relieved that it worked so well on the first attempt.

The voltage output of the decoder was about 20VDC for the lights.
I put in 24VDC bulbs and it appears everything is working well.
I had the 5VDC bulbs in there first because I was fumbling around with wiring and commands, and those bulbs lite up too bright.

IMG_0031.jpegIMG_0028.jpegIMG_0030.jpegIMG_0035.jpegIMG_0036.jpeg
 
You can not measure the voltages 'accurately' with an ordinary meter, as it is not DC or conventional AC. - You would need a DCC Rampmeter for this.

You will also get a supposed voltage drop, through the electronics of the decoder.
It is quite normal.

The so-called 'conductive grease' from LGB is not conductive.
Less is more, when lubricating gears etc in motor-blocks, and keep it away from contacts, wheel-backs and sliders.

PhilP
 
You can not measure the voltages 'accurately' with an ordinary meter, as it is not DC or conventional AC. - You would need a DCC Rampmeter for this.

You will also get a supposed voltage drop, through the electronics of the decoder.
It is quite normal.

The so-called 'conductive grease' from LGB is not conductive.
Less is more, when lubricating gears etc in motor-blocks, and keep it away from contacts, wheel-backs and sliders.

PhilP
Thanks for the details,

I have not actually used the lubricant yet on anything and don’t have a plan to, but this is the conductive lubricant that came with my catenary stuff a while ago:IMG_0047.jpeg
 
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