LGB 20990 - Opening Up for Decoder

[curtis]

Folks, has anyone got an LGB 20980 / 20990 (Saxon Class I / II K) and has opened it up / digitised it? Nikki bought me one as a surprise for Christmas and I'm on a bit of a run of digitising so wanted to take my hand to it.

I've looked at the exploded diagram and I'm not seeing any clear place to start - there aren't any visible screws that I can see that would remove the boiler/cab from the chassis. I tend to find LGB locos (at least the older ones) were reasonably logically in terms of disassembly but I'm feeling rather dense at stumbling at the first hurdle on this.

 

[PhilP]

Just a guess, but it looks a little like a Mallet, where the side/front of the tank comes away?
But I would expect the block has to come away first?

PhilP

 

[idlemarvel]

There's a thread by me detailing how to digitise one of these, a IK not a IIK. I'll see if can find it. They're bugger to take apart and even more so to reassemble! The extra challenge would be wiring between the two if you had a single decoder for both.

 

[idlemarvel]

My bad, I can't find my write-up but here is the Massoth write-up which I remember using.

https://www.massoth.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/LGB-2x98x-Saxonian-IK_EN_massoth_umbaubericht.pdf

 

[curtis]

Just a guess, but it looks a little like a Mallet, where the side/front of the tank comes away?
But I would expect the block has to come away first?

PhilP

That's what I thought originally but no dice. My second guess was the cab popping off but gentle prying resulted in no movement so I stopped that avenue!

idlemarvel This is excellent - thank you so much. Well, that feels like a very random selection of screws.

Yeah, most of my other 2 motor locos I've used a single decoder. They tended to be older locos bought cheaper so I was less worried about drilling an extra whole. This, however, I think I'll spring for the additional decoder and run them in tandem.

 

[dunnyrail]

Quite often there is a body screw cunningly hidden beneath the centre driving wheel, this means removing the wheels to get to it. Well worth hunting before you attack pulling it apart to see if there is one.

 

[idlemarvel]

...most of my other 2 motor locos I've used a single decoder. They tended to be older locos bought cheaper so I was less worried about drilling an extra whole. This, however, I think I'll spring for the additional decoder and run them in tandem.

It looks like from the picture there is already wiring between the two locos, I would guess to share track power feeds and control lighting, like they do with locos with powered tenders. So you may be able to reuse that once you figure out what the wires are for, and avoid any extra hole drilling. Nothing wrong with the two decoder approach though, apart from the expense!

 

[curtis]

It looks like from the picture there is already wiring between the two locos, I would guess to share track power feeds and control lighting, like they do with locos with powered tenders. So you may be able to reuse that once you figure out what the wires are for, and avoid any extra hole drilling. Nothing wrong with the two decoder approach though, apart from the expense!

I was hoping to use that cable originally, unfortunately there are only 4 wires so my worry is something will be missing. My assumption is they are x2 track and x2 motor but I'll try and understand more when I open it up. I've saved enough on decoders with the other locos that if this is the one that double-up I think it's fine. I told Nikki that I'd have to make a hole to use a single decoder. She purchased this so she wasn't thrilled about that idea so I'm considering that an approval for the additional expense...

Quite often there is a body screw cunningly hidden beneath the centre driving wheel, this means removing the wheels to get to it. Well worth hunting before you attack pulling it apart to see if there is one.

These were the two I was actually sure of!

 

[AustrianNG]

I put decoders and 24 volt permanently on smoke units in mine, but I didn't make a record of the procedure.
I do remember that space is very limited with a decoder and a speaker in one loco
Once you have undone the two motor block screws (Not the lower plate ones that holds the driving wheels in place and taken off the valve gear and cylinders, other screws appear - I'm sure you will easily figure it out, it's about as difficult as dismatling a Stainz.
I have just chipped a 1K too - take your time.....

 

[curtis]

First of all - amazing shots as always!

Second, appreciate the tips. I was planning to go one at a time and learn as I go. Yeah, it doesn't look like it can hold a lot in there. Why decoder did you use?

To cause a little thread-drift, AustrianNG , why smoke generators did you use and why did you go for always on? Forgive the naive question, but isn't there a risk of damage?

Curtis

 

[AustrianNG]

Thank you.
The decoder is a Massoth XLS which ran both loks via the connecting cables. I can't remember whether the speaker was in the lok where the decoder was or in the other lok now.

The smoke units are 24 volt (Seuthe I think).
The reason I have most of my smoke detectors wired direct to track power on the steam outline loks because they are steam engines and therefore should have "Smoke" from the stack when they are on the track whether they are stationary or moving.

 

[Distrackted]

Folks, has anyone got an LGB 20980 / 20990 (Saxon Class I / II K) and has opened it up / digitised it? Nikki bought me one as a surprise for Christmas and I'm on a bit of a run of digitising so wanted to take my hand to it.

I've looked at the exploded diagram and I'm not seeing any clear place to start - there aren't any visible screws that I can see that would remove the boiler/cab from the chassis. I tend to find LGB locos (at least the older ones) were reasonably logically in terms of disassembly but I'm feeling rather dense at stumbling at the first hurdle on this.

https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/lgb-20980-saxon-1k-how-to-open.317554/

 

[curtis]

All, thank you so much for the help. Now that it has been done it seems very obvious. I've now managed to fit (a single) decoder into the 20990 along with sound. Running wonderfully and sounds great.

Thanks all!

 

[curtis]

Thank you.
The decoder is a Massoth XLS which ran both loks via the connecting cables. I can't remember whether the speaker was in the lok where the decoder was or in the other lok now.

The smoke units are 24 volt (Seuthe I think).
The reason I have most of my smoke detectors wired direct to track power on the steam outline loks because they are steam engines and therefore should have "Smoke" from the stack when they are on the track whether they are stationary or moving.

Another (perhaps stupid) question on this - a higher voltage smoke stack means more smoke?

 

[Greg Elmassian]

There are all types of smoke units...

The Seuth systems are simple heaters submerged in fluid... no control no regulation. The more voltage, the higher current, the more heat.

Keep the heater submerged in fluid and don't go way over voltage and it works.

Other units will have a heater and a fan, more smoke, but more reliance on electronics.

Greg

 

[AustrianNG]

If you wire direct to track power (as I sometimes do) you get maximum wattage that the smoke unit will produce.
In my experience the 24 volt units wired direct (not via the decoder) gives the best smoke.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

They are still no match, though for a fan driven system: