Lehman battery conversion

skycap

skycap

Registered
I converted my Lehman loco to battery power using a 3 cell 2200 mah lipo. I only needed to access the motor via bottom cover and solder the leads to the copper tabs. I kept the normal track pickups in place for easy conversion back to original condition. I had an esc (electronic speed control) with reverse from a prior project. With this set up I am able to get about 2 hours of running time. I let it run continuously for a timed one hour and had a lot of battery left. I recently sold my RegnerLumberjack (a great geared loco) and am awaiting a Roundhouse Billy kit with a slo-mo unit. I built a Billy in the 90's and the slo mo unit has me excited. I am working on a trestle and getting things landscaped and back to normal.

<iframe width="1600" height="900" src="
" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Welcome to the Dark Side.
 
skycap said:
Is carrying a battery versus track power the dark side? If so I personally find it so much easier. I run live steam also so this makes sense to me.
Click to expand...

No of course it isn't! and you're right - battery power is so much easier.

I think the reason that battery power has aquired this misnomer is because the majority of so called 'G scale' people have come up from smaller scale indoor railways and they are familiar with track power indoors where it is sometimes more appropriate. They consequently have a preference for that which is familiar to them and anything else tends to be labeled as the 'dark side'.

Unfortunately, they seldom appreciate just how different the outdoors environment is to indoors when it comes to assessing the suitability of power options and it is only with experience that they come to realise the overwhelming benefits of battery power render outdoor track power as being truely deserving of the title 'Dark Side'
 
Last edited:
Trainman 864 said:
No of course it isn't! and you're right - battery power is so much easier.

I think the reason that battery power has aquired this misnomer is because the majority of so called 'G scale' people have come up from smaller scale indoor railways and they are familiar with track power indoors where it is sometimes more appropriate. They consequently have a preference for that which is familiar to them and anything else tends to be labeled as the 'dark side'.

Unfortunately, they seldom appreciate just how different the outdoors environment is to indoors when it comes to assessing the suitability of power options and it is only with experience that they come to realise the overwhelming benefits of battery power render track power as being truely deserving of the title 'Dark Side'
Click to expand...


I have been involved with radio control since Easter Sunday of 1964. I guess my perspective may be different from individuals who have run only track power. I have used electric power and lipo batteries in various applications including airplanes and helicopters. I can see the advantage of brushless motors and have no knowledge of anyone making them available for G scale trains. It would be interesting to know if they are a possibility for G scale.
 
I'm not familiar with the use of brushless motors for model rail traction - my understanding is that their superiority in aircraft and helicopter operation is due to their higher efficiency which results in better power/weight ratios.

This is not so important for locomotives and can even be an advantage in that the extra weight can act as ballast with a consequent improvement in traction. Also brushed motors tend to be cheaper to produce.
 
Trainman 864 said:
I'm not familiar with the use of brushless motors for model rail traction - my understanding is that their superiority in aircraft and helicopter operation is due to their higher efficiency which results in better power/weight ratios.

This is not so important for locomotives and can even be an advantage in that the extra weight can act as ballast with a consequent improvement in traction. Also brushed motors tend to be cheaper to produce.
Click to expand...

I always liked the fact that brushless motors tend to last forever with no need to fuss with brushes or replacement motors. I have no idea how long a stock motor will hold up? I t doesn't seem to draw much current.
 
LGB's Buehler motors can seemingly last "forever" if not abused.... I have 40-year-old locos with the original motors that run as well as the day they were built. The only times I've had LGB motors fail is when they've been mistreated by things like over-greasing of the gears (which then gets into the motor and b*ggers things up).....
A single LGB motor in good order should draw around half an amp on average (less with no load, a little more when it's working hard).
Not sure that the newer motors are quite as well built as the old ones, however, like almost everything these days!

Jon.
 
Trainman 864 said:
I'm not familiar with the use of brushless motors for model rail traction - my understanding is that their superiority in aircraft and helicopter operation is due to their higher efficiency which results in better power/weight ratios.

This is not so important for locomotives and can even be an advantage in that the extra weight can act as ballast with a consequent improvement in traction. Also brushed motors tend to be cheaper to produce.
Click to expand...
I was reliably informed that brushless motors deliver a different power curve - it's all revs and little torque, - and are therefore not so well suited to model trains as the traditional brushed motor,

They also have three leads (forget why) which means that you need an ESC designed for an aircraft, which won't give you the cruise control that you get on railway ESCs designed for brushed motors.

That was some time ago, when I converted Big Bertha - the Bachamnn 45 tonner - so things may have moved on since then :smoke::smoke::smoke:
 
Zerogee said:
LGB's Buehler motors can seemingly last "forever" if not abused.... I have 40-year-old locos with the original motors that run as well as the day they were built. The only times I've had LGB motors fail is when they've been mistreated by things like over-greasing of the gears (which then gets into the motor and b*ggers things up).....
A single LGB motor in good order should draw around half an amp on average (less with no load, a little more when it's working hard).
Not sure that the newer motors are quite as well built as the old ones, however, like almost everything these days!

Jon.
Click to expand...

That's really good to know. How often should you oil and grease?
 
skycap said:
That's really good to know. How often should you oil and grease?
Click to expand...

Pretty much never! If you have a very old loco that has stood for a long while, it is possible that the grease on the gears may be hardened and gunky - if this is the case then clean off all the old stuff as far as possible and apply a VERY SMALL amount of fresh grease. It is people being over-enthusiastic with the grease application that can eventually kill motors. As long as there is a film of grease on the gears and it's not all dried and crusty, you're better leaving well alone. You can also apply a TINY amount of oil (with a pin-point oiler) to the motion rods if you really want to, especially on older locos with metal rods, but this should be a very rare job - I wouldn't ever do it more than once a year, and then only on locos that have been run a lot. Remember that grease and oil attract dirt particles that stick, and may well lead to more wear rather than less in the long run.

As a rule of thumb, as long as they are kept reasonably clean and treated sensibly then LGB locos are about as maintenance-free as you can get...... if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it! ;)

Jon.
 
I agree..

Many of the repairs I get, the motor is dripping oil (or oil component from grease).. This kills the motor.

Best thing for 'cleaning' your loco, is a 1.5 - 2 inch paintbrush.. use it dry to get the dust off.. Perhaps an old toothbrush if the motion is really cruddy..

The only time to really go to town cleaning, is if the loco is to go on / in a display case.
 
I'm wondering what it is with excess lubricant that actually 'kills the motor' - does the oil attack the insulation? or does it contaminate the brushes and commutator? - maybe brushless type motors would not suffer from this?

After all - many refrigerator motors run immersed in oil.
 
Oh dear was that a Cat or Dog that was scared? Looked like a Datchund to me but was a very short glimpse.
JonD
 
PhilP said:
I agree..

Many of the repairs I get, the motor is dripping oil (or oil component from grease).. This kills the motor.

Best thing for 'cleaning' your loco, is a 1.5 - 2 inch paintbrush.. use it dry to get the dust off.. Perhaps an old toothbrush if the motion is really cruddy..

The only time to really go to town cleaning, is if the loco is to go on / in a display case.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I ran again last night for about 1/2 hour. I was curious how long I could run like this without needing maintenance?
 
PhilP said:
I agree..

Many of the repairs I get, the motor is dripping oil (or oil component from grease).. This kills the motor.

Best thing for 'cleaning' your loco, is a 1.5 - 2 inch paintbrush.. use it dry to get the dust off.. Perhaps an old toothbrush if the motion is really cruddy..

The only time to really go to town cleaning, is if the loco is to go on / in a display case.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I ran again last night for about 1/2 hour. I was curious how long I could run like this without needing maintenance?
 
While the motor should not require maintenance, all of the other moving bits will. I've always used the Hob-e-lube set of oils and greases, and for track powered locos, tend to use sparing amounts of the white grease on the motion. Axle boxes get a small shot of light lube oil (same make) as it is plastic friendly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom