Knuckle coupling repair

[trammayo]

A large proportion of my stock uses knuckle couplings or buckeyes. Sometimes they can be a pain - drooping or swivelling around when you try to couple up. It is the latter problem that I found a quick solution to.

The good old bass broom (or at least its' modern equivalent). Yes, the're not just used for sweeping or witches transport!


The clumps of bristles are stapled into the brush head and, occasionally, the staple drops out.

I had already thought that the stiff, springy nature, might be a substitute for the plastic tail that keeps the coupling central on the truck's stem. Sometimes that tail breaks off and then you have to hold the knuckle to align with the next item of stock in the train when assembling your consist.

So, a 1.5mm drill in a pin vice, drill out where the broken tail used to be, and insert your brush bristle with drop of plastic cement to keep it fast. Then just snip to length!



And that's it. Bristling with success.

 

[Riograndad]

Good one Mick,thats one for the memory banks

 

[beavercreek]

You're just 'bristling' with ideas Mick!

 

[Madman]

SWMBO will bristle at the thought of me touching her preferred mode of transportation.....

 

[trammayo]

To continue with repairs to these infamous couplings I thought I'd post this modification. On my trailer layout, given that every radiused switch, or curve is RI, it is a pain with certain (Bachmann) knuckle couplings opening up.

Recent problems at a show made me withdraw a Combine from service. Having revisited the problem, I thought it might be the plastic peg that holds the knuckle in place. So I replaced the pegs on both couplings with 3mm dia bolts (and nuts) to stop vertical play. However, the problem persisted even when running this Saturday past.

Talking (as in "Conversation") with fellow Forumite Riograndad, he said he wasn't averse to applying a little glue on any knuckle that opened up persistently. So, I was going to do that myself but I gave it some thought. What was I trying to do? I wanted to stop the jaws opening. Now you might say make sure the locking pin is fully down - which it was on all occasions!

So I thought about a reversible repair. I drilled a 1mm hole through the locking pin (in the lock mode)
tight under the jaws. The poor quality pic should demonstrate this. No apologies for the pics - I know no better!

This loco did set off with the combine....



but it lost it en route ...



So, as I was no where near the controls, I had to lift it out of the way!

Now here come the mod pics (warts and all).....



If you look hard enough, you can just make out the hole (first of the three pics) followed by a shiny pin head, and that with pin bent so it won't come out. The pins are 15mm as used in pinning sequins to polystrene shapes/figures - I just bought them to look like coach bolts or rivets.

Tested a four coach set and there were no problems! The real proof of the pudding will be on the R1s in the trailer. The latter should be on my drive later this week!

 

[G-force1]

Mick, I believe that these are they, to which you allure.



They appear to have been supplied thus, I have some others without pins. I think it a shame that Bachmann haven't found a more suitable mod other than to block the operation, though one of a pair may be enough (you would perhaps know best on that). I think they look superb, it is only quantity that would stop me changing over.

Edit : - Further thoughts by my 'gineering brain suggest that the drop-pin is too light and should have been made from metal, brass or zinc perhaps.

 

[Rhinochugger]

Mick, I believe that these are they, to which you allure.

View attachment 241304

They appear to have been supplied thus, I have some others without pins. I think it a shame that Bachmann haven't found a more suitable mod other than to block the operation, though one of a pair may be enough (you would perhaps know best on that). I think they look superb, it is only quantity that would stop me changing over.

Edit : - Further thoughts by my 'gineering brain suggest that the drop-pin is too light and should have been made from metal, brass or zinc perhaps.

I think they 'ride up with wear, sir'

I'm all for pinning them down - especially with a simple reversible mod.

Just means that you may have to drop one wagon on another for coupling purposes, but if it saves embarrassment ..............

Still preferable to those 'orrible hooks and loops IMHO - well forget the 'humble' bit today

 

[JimmyB]

I think they 'ride up with wear, sir'

I'm all for pinning them down - especially with a simple reversible mod.

Just means that you may have to drop one wagon on another for coupling purposes, but if it saves embarrassment ..............

Still preferable to those 'orrible hooks and loops IMHO - well forget the 'humble' bit today

I agree they look better than the hook and loop, especially for American outline, but in the end I have gone for simplicity - life is too short, especially for a late starter.

 

[Rhinochugger]

I agree they look better than the hook and loop, especially for American outline, but in the end I have gone for simplicity - life is too short, especially for a late starter.

Absolutely, live like you wanna live.

When I first started in G scale, there were a few people who expressed their opinion (frequently) that LGB was the tops, perfect, foolproof etc etc.

Being the sort of contrary s*d that I am, I just decided to go in a different direction wherever possible

Which is also why I scratch built a loco chassis - they told me LGB chassis were bomb-proof quite probably, but I can tell 'em LGB plus one other

Being cantankerous takes a fair bit of effort, y'know

 

[G-force1]

Perhaps a dry, anti-scuff lube, might suffice to stop the wear? Though I still think a bit more weight in the pin would go a long way.

'Tis only cost that stops them being die-cast which would be sooo much better.

 

[Rhinochugger]

Perhaps a dry, anti-scuff lube, might suffice to stop the wear? Though I still think a bit more weight in the pin would go a long way.

'Tis only cost that stops them being die-cast which would be sooo much better.

The Fn3 (Spectrum) ones are cast - they're a little larger though

 

[trammayo]

Mick, I believe that these are they, to which you allure.

View attachment 241304

They appear to have been supplied thus, I have some others without pins. I think it a shame that Bachmann haven't found a more suitable mod other than to block the operation, though one of a pair may be enough (you would perhaps know best on that). I think they look superb, it is only quantity that would stop me changing over.

Edit : - Further thoughts by my 'gineering brain suggest that the drop-pin is too light and should have been made from metal, brass or zinc perhaps.

I don't think that B'mann would have supplied them like that (but I've been known to be wrong). But you're right about the weight.

The Fn3 (Spectrum) ones are cast - they're a little larger though

Yes they are better - but I couldn't afford to change over!

Being cantankerous takes a fair bit of effort, y'know

I thought it was genetic

 

[Rhinochugger]

Yes they are better - but I couldn't afford to change over!



I thought it was genetic

No, they're too bloomin' expensive, although each Fn3 wagon comes with a spare pare, but the fixings are different.

As to my genes

 

[G-force1]

I don't think that B'mann would have supplied them like that (but I've been known to be wrong). But you're right about the weight.

I have several that all look identical in the way the split-pin is opened and cut, I assumed from the factory. It might be newer coaches, all of mine are S/H.

 

[trammayo]

I have several that all look identical in the way the split-pin is opened and cut, I assumed from the factory. It might be newer coaches, all of mine are S/H.

The bulk of mine are S/H. I think some sellers remove the metal wheels (sold seperately), and generally swap good for bad. I wondered if the plastic 'knuckle' itself - being so shiny - was contributing. If it was, it won't now!

 

[PhilP]

No, they're too bloomin' expensive, although each Fn3 wagon comes with a spare pare, but the fixings are different.

As to my genes

I am now wondering about 'Spring Bottom Pants'..

Is it on the ends of the legs, or the derriere?

 

[Rhinochugger]

I am now wondering about 'Spring Bottom Pants'..

Is it on the ends of the legs, or the derriere?