IP Engineering Simplex

[ge_rik]

Just finished the preliminary build on my IP Engineering Simplex.



Nice little kit, which went together well. Following John (JRinTawa)`s advice I used low-melt solder, for the first time, and I must say it`s a lot more satisfying to use than ePoxy or Superglue (my previous methods). Immediate bonding but undoable if you (sorry I, many times) make a bal mistake.

Still plenty to do - electrics - fitting radio control - filling - painting - detailing - etc. but just wanted to show progress so far as I know others on here have talked about making the kit.

Rik

PS - Temporary driver looks as if he`s nodded off    ...... nothing to do with the time it`s taken me to get around to making it since I got the kit a Christmas ....... 

 

[PhilP]

Rik,
Is this your first time with a white metal kit?
How do you rate it? - Always seems a lot of cleaning-up to do, and it puts me off a bit..

 

[ge_rik]

Rik,
Is this your first time with a white metal kit?
How do you rate it? - Always seems a lot of cleaning-up to do, and it puts me off a bit..

Hi Phil
I've made odds and ends from whitemetal kits previously (eg station barrow, weighing machine, people) and used whitemetal parts in most of my kit- and scratch-builds but this is first loco kit completely in whitemetal. There's slightly more filing down of parts than a plastic kit - but no more onerous - at least you don't have to cut the parts off the sprue as you do with a plastic kit. One advantage is that I won't need to add any extra weight.

Rik

 

[PhilP]

Thanks for the feedback..
I suppose the thing to do is buy one of the 'accessory' kits, and a small stick of low-melt solder, and give it a go..

Yet another project to add to the 'round-tuit' list.. :

 

[spoz]

What sort of r/c are you going to use Rik? I find that I am challenged to get anything compact enough to go into Ivan's smaller products after I've fitted batteries, switches etc so to date I've left the two I've got with manual control. I put a Chinese dimmer switch system into the Shelley Tram but that's a lot bigger of course. Although, the problem might just be me; I'm not the world's tidiest worker............

Steve

 

[ge_rik]

What sort of r/c are you going to use Rik? I find that I am challenged to get anything compact enough to go into Ivan's smaller products after I've fitted batteries, switches etc so to date I've left the two I've got with manual control.

Hi Steve
I'm going with my usual Deltang gear. The combined receiver/controller boards are tiny. I've already used his largest, Rx65b, in my other small diesel

and an Rx60 in the IP lollypop railcar

My only worry is the shielding from the metal bodywork. I am considering making a plasticard cab for it and so might shove the rx up into the roof. As this will only be powered by one li-ion battery (3.7v), I could probably use one of his smaller Rxs (ie the ones intended for 00 or N gauge stock) if I'm struggling to fit the Rx65 - which is a pity as I'll not then have the shuttle mode option.

I'm not the world's tidiest worker............
Steve

Me neither..... as you can see from the spaghetti I somehow crammed into the lollypop railcar.

Rik

 

[spoz]

I'll have to try that, even my fumble fingered electronjcs should be able to handle it. Thanks, an good luck with the Simplex.

 

[ge_rik]

I'll have to try that, even my fumble fingered electronjcs should be able to handle it.

Steve

Was the typo deliberate, Freudian or just an accident? Whatever, it made me chuckle.

Rik

 

[ge_rik]

I suppose the thing to do is buy one of the 'accessory' kits, and a small stick of low-melt solder, and give it a go..

Hi Phil
Don't forget you'll need an adjustable heat soldering iron as well. I use a cheapo one from Maplin - though I have heard of people wiring an old fashioned 100w incandescent lightbulb in series with a standard soldering iron to reduce the heat.

Rik

 

[PhilP]

Hi Phil
Don't forget you'll need an adjustable heat soldering iron as well. I use a cheapo one from Maplin - though I have heard of people wiring an old fashioned 100w incandescent lightbulb in series with a standard soldering iron to reduce the heat.

Rik

Got a mid-range one from Maplin.. Was on offer when I took the cheap one back, as it failed after about five months of the hammer I gave it..

 

[JRinTawa]

Looking good Rik.

Phil, once you've got the hang of low melt soldering there is no looking back. For me it's easier than full temperature soldering. I have used full temperature solder on bigger whitemetal parts, it works well but you've got to be super fast with the soldering iron or it can go horribly wrong.

 

[David1226]

I have used full temperature solder on bigger whitemetal parts, it works well but you've got to be super fast with the soldering iron or it can go horribly wrong.

That sounds like a hot tip.....

David

 

[ge_rik]

Thought she looked a bit spartan as was - and I didn`t like the prominent switches on each side - so I`ve done a bit of detailing.









Resited the switch and put in a charge socket for the li-ions I`ll be using. Still a bit more tweaking to be done and then comes the paint job.

Rik

 

[JRinTawa]

Owww I like that, brilliant

 

[jeremy.viewing]

Absolutely fantastic, love the cab detail, the deltang gear looks small is the speed controller the Blue module in the picture?

 

[ge_rik]

Absolutely fantastic, love the cab detail, the deltang gear looks small is the speed controller the Blue module in the picture?

Hi Jeremy
No, the blue thingy is the auto-reset fuse. The speed controller is on the same board as the receiver. Deltang gear is very compact.

Rik

 

[Robert Howard]

Looking good but if you add too much will it become a Complex Locomotive??

 

[mikanmart]

Rik,
Is this your first time with a white metal kit?
How do you rate it? - Always seems a lot of cleaning-up to do, and it puts me off a bit..

It is quite common for whitemetal kits to have an abundance of flash .
One of the better techniques I have learned is to NOT file the flash off , use a sharp modelling knife to remove what you can .
The reason for this is whitemetal is a swine at clogging your little files up (but more about that below) .
With regard to the assembly of whitemetal with solder , it is better (and obvious?) to solder the large bits first with the highest temp solder----low melt is available in temps down to just over boiling water . Then progress down through the component sizes and solder temperatures . Make sure to be generous with the flux----fluids peculiar to the solder are available from the solder company , I use Carr's and have never had a problem .
If you are worried about melting your component through using too much heat and you do not have a temperature controlled iron , switch the iron off frequently ; this (stating the obvious) stops the iron acting like a snow plough through your precious metal (See? Gold ain't the only precious metal) .
Remember to tin the brass bits with low melt before trying to solder them onto the main assembly .
Now , a tip that will have some of you wondering who is the idiot writing this ; Swiss files , a common adjunct to our modelling tools .
When you have cut the flash off with a sharp knife and cleaned the ensuing blood off the kit , put a little pile of talcum powder on your worktop and press your Swiss File into it , then GENTLY file your bits , frequently using a wire brush to clean the file . The talc acts as a barrier to the whitemetal and unless you ignore the GENTLY bit you will find that not only can you file better , you do not get those nasty grooves in your model caused by the whitemetal clogging your file .
This tip was hammered into me in 1953 when I started in engineering . My Dad , a brilliant design engineer told me earlier than 1953 to use dance floor chalk cuz there were a war on and people had to go round smelly because there was no talc .
Another advantage to using talc is your model smells nice and you may get some interesting offers at shows .
IMPORTANT : do not get caught stealing talc from wife/mom/sister/boyfriend , they may not possess the sensibilities of us modellers .
Depending on your experience of its use , it is often possible to completely assemble whitemetal with superglue , it is surprisingly strong especially after being covered with paint .

If you have any questions about this , post them on a 7 quid note and I will do my best to help .

mike m , melter of many a promising model

 

[ge_rik]

That's really helpful, Mike. I've wondered how others prevent their files from being clogged up with whitemetal and solder. That's a handy tip.

Rik

 

[ge_rik]

She`s just emerged from the paintshop (and weathering department). Hoping to finish off the electrics this afternoon .....


Halfords Rover Brooklands Green - the default livery for the PLR.


A few extra details added such as toolbox, cab and engine detailing


Plasticard chequerplate flooring added to the cab and the area in front of the engine compartment


Weathering done with sea salt beneath the top-coat, acrylic washes and weathering powders (still a bit more to do)


She will be powered by two li-ion batteries in parallel and controlled with a Deltang Rx65b receiver/controller (hidden in the double side wall of the cab)


Will post a video once she`s powered-up

Rik