Impact of R1 + 160 + R1 + 160 Piko Track on engine size

G

Geoffrey

Registered
Sorry, my previous thread got the track combination wrong. I'm a major newbie.
Making my first curve I used R1 and 160's and was hoping that the 160's would make it possible to use larger PIKO engines. I know just R1 won't do it. Do I need to rip out what I've done and start over or will the 160's interspersed with R1 do what I'm hoping?
Thanks for your advice!!
 
Not quite so bad but still same issue. Real railways use transition curves where the track radius gradually decreases from straight to the desired radius. You can do that in modelling terms with flexible track but you may not / probably wont have the space and it's more work than using set track pieces. I have limited space and use R1 exclusively and choose my rolling stock to allow for that. If you're worried about track geometry there's usually a way to make pieces fit without resorting to placing short straights in the middle of curves.
 
Geoffrey said:
Sorry, my previous thread got the track combination wrong. I'm a major newbie.
Making my first curve I used R1 and 160's and was hoping that the 160's would make it possible to use larger PIKO engines. I know just R1 won't do it. Do I need to rip out what I've done and start over or will the 160's interspersed with R1 do what I'm hoping?
Thanks for your advice!!
Click to expand...
See my reply on your original post.
 
Just in case, every Piko loco can go around an R1 curve. (They engineer them for that.) However, a large engine would look a bit odd, hang over the curves quite a bit, and also a sharper radius can add to more wear. Like "idlemarvel" stated, a transition piece would be better. R5 or R3 - or both - then a bunch of R1's would be better then straights.

In general, its always best to use the largest curve possible, but you can use transitions to ease into a sharper curve. It will allow for better running.
 
1to3 said:
Just in case, every Piko loco can go around an R1 curve. (They engineer them for that.) However, a large engine would look a bit odd, hang over the curves quite a bit, and also a sharper radius can add to more wear. Like "idlemarvel" stated, a transition piece would be better. R5 or R3 - or both - then a bunch of R1's would be better then straights.

In general, its always best to use the largest curve possible, but you can use transitions to ease into a sharper curve. It will allow for better running.
Click to expand...
That may well be true but my Piko 2-10-2t is decidedly unhappier on R1 than my LGB Harz 2-10-2t. Even though both look completely daft doing so.
 
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