Help Needed With Lgb 20635

R

Robert Howard

Registered
Hi
After Santa's delivery I am the proud owner of my first LGB loco. 20635 D&rgw #50.

Not sure if possible but I was hoping to fit battery power (too lazy to clean track) but not sure which screws to start with to pull it apart and don't want to make a mess of my shiny new loco.

But disappointed no exploded diagram in the box.

Any help appreciated!!

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Thanks that looks right! :-) Will have a closer look and see if I can open it up tomorrow. Did not really expect anything so fast! :-)

Any other input appreciated.
 
These can be a bit of a pig to dismantle. I think the solution is to take out the wheels, then you can get to the Screws located beneath them. Problem then is with reconstruction to ensure that your Wheel Cogs are matched. You need to look carefully where the Spokes line up. Lumpy running will tell you if you got it wrong. Just one Cog out will give that lumpy running.

Good luck,
JonD
 
No, you DON'T need to remove the wheels or dismantle the gearbox (sorry JonD!) - the loco will come apart without disturbing the gearbox mechanism!
I have one in a dismantled state, I'll nip out to the workshop and have a look at it, see if I can tell you exactly which screws to remove.... more later.....

Jon.

OK, just brought mine in to examine.....
From footplate level downward, you have THREE major parts - the gearbox/motor block, which is a standard LGB 4 or 6 wheel unit depending on the particular loco (mine is the 6-wheel German industrial version); the chassis/frame, into which the motor block slides; and finally the actual footplate, which until you unscrew it can LOOK like it is one part with the frame, but it's not.

In your picture of the underside of your loco, which I think has the cab to the left of the pic, there are FIVE screws in a line along the centre of the gearbox bottom plate. From the left (the cab end), you need to remove the FIRST and FOURTH of these screws - do not touch the second, third and fifth (front-most) ones, as these are the ones that hold the gearbox together and keep the wheels in alignment!
Once you've taken out the first and fourth screws, with a little application of pressure the whole gearbox should slide downward and out of the loco - it will only be attached by the wiring loom plugged onto the terminals on top of the motor block.
You'll now be able to see the four screws that hold the bonnet (motor hood for those across the pond!), which you can remove - you may need to ease some of the handrails out of their holes as you do this. The cab is also held by four screws, two of which also hold the rear steps on. If you also remove the front steps and the bell from just behind one step, you should then be able to separate the frame from the footplate.

This loco is a particularly good candidate for R/C and battery, as it has practically all the space under the bonnet spare - the traction weights are two blocks behind the buffer-beams, you will see them when the frame and footplate are separated.

Hope this helps! :)

Jon.
 
Last edited:
Just added to my post above....

Jon.

Edit: one thing I forgot above - in order to separate the frame from the footplate I think you will also have to remove both buffer-beams, each is held on by two very small screws. However if all you need is access to the space under the bonnet, you shouldn't need to separate the frame and footplate to do that as you can access the four bonnet screws once the gearbox is dropped away.
 
Ok Z,
Sorry if I got it wrong, I was thinking the beast might be the same as the 0-6-0 version that was causing so much problem to I forget his name last Sept or Oct. When he came round with it I saw the drated screws just about hidden by the Wheels. Only solution with that one was as I said or so it seamed.
JonD
 
Thanks to the help above I am in but a bit unsure how to proceed.

In my earlier battery conversions (bachmann Thomas and Piko Mogul) it was easy to identify the pickup cables but here they are in a set of four with the motor wires. I would prefer to keep the existing circuit board (for the lights etc). Is there a standard order for the set of four cables so I snip the right ones? (Middle of first picture)

Also I think I will need to remove the weight under the board for battery space.

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The 4 wires go to a 4way plug in the Chassis. If you mark the way it goes, the pull it out then you can then check with a Meter the Wire Set Up. Two will go to Left n Right Wheels. The other two will go to the Motor. That will give you a Short Indication when you Touch the two pins with the points on your Meter. You dont have a Meter? Oh there is a convention for these Wires. Someone will mention it, I forget and always have to check with the Meter.
JonD
 
There should be a small embossed 2-letter marking by each pin connection on the gearbox, visible when you remove the four-way plug; they are (in German of course) GR (Grun, green), BR (Braun, brown), WS (Weiss, white) and GE (Gelb, yellow). BROWN and WHITE are track power (from the wheel and skate pickups), GREEN and YELLOW are motor connections. If you're using battery power, you'll need the Green (gn) and Yellow (ge) pins to feed power to the motor.

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
There should be a small embossed 2-letter marking by each pin connection on the gearbox, visible when you remove the four-way plug; they are (in German of course) GR (Grun, green), BR (Braun, brown), WS (Weiss, white) and GE (Gelb, yellow). BROWN and WHITE are track power (from the wheel and skate pickups), GREEN and YELLOW are motor connections. If you're using battery power, you'll need the Green (gn) and Yellow (ge) pins to feed power to the motor.

Jon.
Click to expand...
Jon, I knew someone would remember. Also should be stated that All Wires including Pickup should be taken out for Battery Power.

However.

Not quite sure how he will be able to make use of the existing Board though. Perhaps by nipping the Pickup Wires, feeding via the Board to the Motor via the 4 way Block With the Wires left from the Power Block (Track Supply end) being taped up. Make sure you use Heat Shrink for any Joints.

I have never tried this, but cannot see why it would not work. However they may be issues with the need for a better Battery Supply as the Board will be using some Power.

The other disadvantage with using the Board in this way would be that you would not get Lights on all the time.
JonD
 
As the board is DCC ready, could the 10pin DCC connector be used to interface to the motor and power the lights. No need to connect to the pins that provide track power thus making it easy to return to track pickup or convert to DCC.
 
dunnyrail said:
Not quite sure how he will be able to make use of the existing Board though. Perhaps by nipping the Pickup Wires, feeding via the Board to the Motor via the 4 way Block With the Wires left from the Power Block (Track Supply end) being taped up.
Click to expand...

That's my current plan but open to suggestions...

My worry with not using the board is didn't it limit the voltage to the lights to just 5v? If I do not use the board I will need to replicate this somehow if I want to use the lights.
 
Robert Howard said:
That's my current plan but open to suggestions...

My worry with not using the board is didn't it limit the voltage to the lights to just 5v? If I do not use the board I will need to replicate this somehow if I want to use the lights.
Click to expand...

Or swap them for LED's and limiting resistors to suit your battery supply??
 
Robert Howard said:
That's my current plan but open to suggestions...

My worry with not using the board is didn't it limit the voltage to the lights to just 5v? If I do not use the board I will need to replicate this somehow if I want to use the lights.
Click to expand...


Massoth make a fairly inexpensive little 6 volt stabiliser board (i'm assuming you wouldn't blow 5v bulbs by running them just one volt higher?), all ready to wire in - you could use one of these to drop your battery voltage, then feed the lights through a simple manual on/off switch?

Mark's got a couple in, here:
http://gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/massoth-emotion-6v-fixed-voltage-regulator

Jon.
 
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