Help! How to Change USA Trains GP-30 Shell

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Twistofer56

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I have a USA Trains GP-30 which runs great. I'd like to remove the current shell (Great Northern Glacier Green/Arctic Orange) and replace it with the CB&Q Red shell. Can someone help me with finding instructions to disassemble and reassemble the unit?
 

Here is the link to the USA Trains manuals..

You need to remove the tank to get ar some of the screws, and then work your way round.
You need a long shafted screwdriver, and the screws are quite 'cheesy' (soft). A very slight tighten, before trying to undo, can help. - A fraction of a turn.

PhilP
 
PhilP said:

Here is the link to the USA Trains manuals..

You need to remove the tank to get ar some of the screws, and then work your way round.
You need a long shafted screwdriver, and the screws are quite 'cheesy' (soft). A very slight tighten, before trying to undo, can help. - A fraction of a turn.

PhilP
Click to expand...
I did download the manuals. It seemed a bit daunting. Thanks
 
The screws are quite deeply set, and you need a decent screwdriver..
A thin shaft allows you to get between the bloc and the side-frames.

Supporting the model whilst you wrestle with the screws, is half the battle.

PhilP
 
What's confusing is the shell comes in two parts...It doesn't seem like one replaces only the top half. I'm wondering if you have to disassemble the motors and electronics?
I wish there were instructions...or maybe a tutorial.
 
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Electronics and motor-blocks hang from the chassis / foot-plate..

You might be able to remove the 'long-hood' without the cab-section, but I am less familiar with the GP30.

PhilP
 
Remove the whole hood at one time... you will get short hood, cab, long hood.... after it is apart you can see how you could only remove one part.

Read this, has a disassembly for a USAT GP7, vers similar.

GP7

Greg Elmassian web site on large scale trains and garden railroads, cigars, and computers
elmassian.com elmassian.com

BIG TIP get a screwdriver that is slender enough to get in the holes with clearance. make SURE the tip fits the screw tightly. If you don't do this, you can strip the screwhead and never get the shell off.

After it is apart, a drop of plastic compatible oil on the screw threads will help avoid problems. Do NOT tighten the screws too much, they strip in the plastc EASILY.

Greg
 
When putting the screws back in, turn them anti-clockwise first..
You will feel/hear a faint 'click' when the leading edge of the screw drops into the threaded plastic.

Avoids creating a new, weaker thread in the plastics.

PhilP
 
PhilP said:
When putting the screws back in, turn them anti-clockwise first..
You will feel/hear a faint 'click' when the leading edge of the screw drops into the threaded plastic.

Avoids creating a new, weaker thread in the plastics.

PhilP
Click to expand...
Good advice that applies in general to all "self-tapers" especially in plastic, and can apply when generally mating two threaded items.
 
PhilP said:
Electronics and motor-blocks hang from the chassis / foot-plate..

You might be able to remove the 'long-hood' without the cab-section, but I am less familiar with the GP30.

PhilP
Click to expand...
That's what I was afraid of. The foot-plate & chassis seems to be my concern. The parts came with the top (aka cab section) and FOOT-PLATE, since the prototype is all red.

Before disassembling anything, I want to know what I'm getting into. :wait:
 
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